Powerz69

Yes! Uconnect will do the 1st update, then go to maps and it will do the map update.

wires at the BCM was posted here. http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/3050-brake-controller-w-led-lights-help/?p=28371

It does say what the color for the dome light is at the BCM.

DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION YELLOW/PURPLE (+) @ BCM, SEE NOTE #2

NOTE #2: The BCM is located Behind the GLOVE BOX

Thanks for the tip. I have mini h1 now but I want more. Something better

RX350 projectors with STI clear lens and Osram CBI bulbs is the best setup. The RX350 is pretty much the same size as a MD2S 3.0 projector the kind I used for my retro.

-RX350 with STI clear lens $225.00

-Osram D2S CBI bulbs 5500K $185.00

US funds + Shipping and tax.

When I'm ready for a hitch, I am going to let my Dealer do the installation so I can use the built in trailer anti sway electronics.

Make sure your wires match up. Remove the caps and plug the factory headlight plug into the relay harness, black to black or red to red I cannot remember. See if the relays stop buzzing. Install the cap again make sure the wires match up again if you can see them. You should really have the relay harness hooked up to the battery with an inline fuse.

Does everything work with the DJ not running? If so double check the wires before the relay harness making sure they match up.

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/924-installing-hid-lights-on-your-journey-step-by-step/?p=38689

also post 97.

You will have a fun time with that! I'm thinking you will have to mount the projector from behind the fog housing. Even with matchbox projectors it will be tough as the fog housing is just so small.

I used the XB led fog lamps and I like them. I like them so much that I'm taking out my matchbox fog retro in my F150 and will be installing the XB led for F150 when they come out early 2015.

Buy real HIR bulbs if you are looking for more light.

THIS^^^

Hi Beam: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours.

Hi Beam ... HIR1(9011), 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 400 hours.

Silverstar ultra: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 100 hours.

Lo Beam: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1006 lumens, 360 hours.

Lo Beam ... HIR2(9012), 12.8V, 55W, 1875 lumens, 1000 hours.

Silverstar ultra: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1000 lumens, 200 hours

The cutoff looked way better when I was aiming both lights together. Like you were saying the overlapping eliminated the flaws to where I was happy.

These New bubs are way better then I was expecting. I bought the previous version and thought they were worse then the normal XB's. I was leery about these XB35 5500K bulbs but after seeing them in person yesterday I kind of wish I never spent the money on the CBI bulbs now. Bulbs had a run time of less then 5 minutes on them before I took the pictures, that fact alone is amazing.

Very nice!

Output pictures are now in my gallery.

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/gallery/album/259-md2s-retrofit/

That looks good man. So you had to trim the shroud up abit to fit nicely? And I sink the projector back enough until the holes meet he bowl. Screw it in align it up. Get some JB weld and stick it in place and should be good to go? I'd like to see output shots. Even in a garage or something if they r not on the DJ yet

1. Make hole in bowl large enough for the back of projector to fit in and projector mounts touch bowl.

2. with projector fitted in bowl mark holes for screws, drill holes in bowl and use a course threaded screw to mount projector to bowl. Don't screw the projector on tight but just snug, all you want to do is align now. Just use common sense like if the projector need to go up loosen the lower screws and tighten the top screws same as left and right. You might also need to drill the projector mounting holes a bit bigger as this will allow a little rotational adjustment.

DON'T FORGET YOUR HIGH BEAMS! Align the cutoff with your high beams if you plane to use them. I think my low part of the cutoff was 3 inches lower then middle of high beam. I never installed the lights yet so I cannot say it worked for me, but going off all the measurement I did it should work.

3. JB weld quick to hold the projector and the bowl together, I used the TYC lights and the bowls are weak for just screws alone.

4. Trim and sand the back of the shroud a bit to fit, mine was around 1/4 inch.

5. Trim the headlight surround to clear the projector shroud, I sanded it with a dremel it was very easy.

6. Everything should now clear and fit and headlight lens should be able to fully close.

I'll take some pictures tonight. I'll be using crappy bulbs though as my Osram CBI's are still shipping. I had to mess with one projector shield as it was messed up when I got it, so the cutoff might not be straight like it should. It would have cost me more for shipping so I tried to fix it myself. I'm happy with it now but it would have been better new without any problems.

Excellent work. How does the light output look at night? (How do they perform?) I put projectors on my Nitro, and was somewhat dissatisfied with the outcome

I never tried these ones yet but they will be great for their size. I'll post some pictures when I get these things installed. I just have to mount the led halo, clean up the lights, seal them back up and install.

It all depends on the quality of projectors, bulbs, ballasts that you used but need to know more on why you were dissatisfied. I'm still using the first FX-R 1.0 projector on a F-150 that I did 4 years ago and I'm still in awe.

Turned out nice. I like the ocular shrouds, did they require any cutting? Did you try those before or after you sank the projector deeper in the bowl? You know you need to post pics of them on the DJ, right? Ha!

The 2 shrouds were placed over the sunken projector. The shrouds still had a 1/4 inch gap before clipping onto the projector. The right side of the Ocular would have just needed a little bit of sanding. The left side because of the way the bowl is would have been cut to fit in taking the top half off the left side. Also the headlight surround is sitting close to 1 inch higher then it should be. So with that said both shrouds have to come down 1/4 inch and the surround needs to be trimmed 3/4 inch so the headlight will close up.

I'm so close but so far from being able to install them. I got slammed with work so I just need to find the time now.

My MD2S projector retrofit with Apollo shrouds. Pictures in my gallery.

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/gallery/album/259-md2s-retrofit/

I'll make my MD2S retrofit thread tonight.

I have then as my turn signal. Te pic you see is I unlocked the car and my headlights turn on. I took a pic then

The fogs should be easy to open regardless. They are small and round so the permaseal will heat and stay hot longer until they open.

Did you hook up the halo's to the parking lights?

Why are your projectors only on but not your parking lights?

Kind wish I used a different projector. I have the mini h1 but I want to go bigger. Might possibly buy a new set and redo them with something bigger or buy the projector headlights for the dj

Your MH1 is going to be better then {Aftermarket projector headlights for the DJ}. The MH1 6.0 is a good projector but I do not like the H1 bulb seating issues. I had bulb seating issues with a MH1 5.0 retro and matchbox retro I did and now I personally only like the D2S bulb. So with that being said I did not want to use the Mh1 for my retrofit. I went with the MD2S with Apollo 2.0 shrouds. The projector fit good after doing a full retrofit by cutting the headlight bowls and mounting the projector. The issue is with a 2.5-3 inch shroud as it hits the headlight surround, but sinking the projector and cutting the surround the headlight can now close.

So It's all about firsts! We know Totemus had a Mh1 installed with a mini Gatling shroud so it's possible. I just Installed a MD2S so that's now possible. The shrouds are the same size for the bigger projectors just different shapes. So A larger projector like the FX-R 3.0 or the RX350 can be installed as there is room but only with a Apollo 2.0 shroud. Other shrouds can probably be used but just not until someone can confirm it with pictures, LOL. With that being said I'd stay away from the LS460 because that projector is monstrous, or you can prove me wrong and do it.

Lobitz68 might try to install a Apollo 2.0 shroud on his MH1 to fill the headlight bowl a bit more. It all depends on how much time you want to put into this hobby. Like I said it's all about firsts, like the first guy here that did his write up on how to install hid lights 3-4 years ago.

I did my first retro on a 2006 F150 back in 2010 with the FX-R 1.0 projectors. I was the first person to install an FX-R projector in a 04-08 F150 and document it. Since then It's amazing how people doing their own twists on things make it look better. Check out my how to: link and see how it changed from when I first did mine to how people are doing theirs it's pretty cool.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/432208-how-04-08-oem-headlights-fx-r-projector-hid-retrofit.html

So don't give up! If you want to change your projectors then change them down the road. I'm 90% done my retrofit with MD2S with Apollo 2.0 shrouds and I'm already thinking of changing out my projector to a RX350 with clear lens and my Apollo 2.0 shrouds and Osram CBI bulbs.

You can buy them off the internet for cheaper, but they could be knockoffs. Or your local NAPA sells HIR1/HIR2 for $50 a bulb and they are legit. I'm not sure where else sells them for local pickup.

There is a lip around the headlight housing. If you remove the headlight you should be able to mount a strip behind the lip. Also, since the lens is not clear on the lip it should diffuse the light and make it look like a continuous light rather than a bunch of single LEDs...

Is this something you are working on, or doing? It sounds like a good idea.

That looks good! I bet you don't even notice it unless you are looking for it. Now I'm leaning towards getting one and hiding it like yours.

I would have just mounted mine in the same spot just in front of the grill.

I have Nav traffic on mine I think. Does Nav traffic have something to do with the cars in your picture? Or it will tell you if a delay is on your route and give a delay time?

If so I bought my DD in May 2014, and Nav traffic just started to work 2 months ago on it's own. I'm on the 1 year free trial still.

Also how did you make your map so big on your screen? I cannot figure how to make my map bigger, or if breadcrumbs can be shown.

SD slot above the CD slot.

Edit: changed picture to prevent injuries!!!

As promised - putting a short video of lights. I made this video after I installed a light bar in the lower bumper part.

Can you post a picture of your light bar during the day turned off? I'm just curious how it looks mounted there.

What kind is it?

I get this also on my 2014, I'll try the neutral thing also cause it makes sense.

I think I heard the winter cold start sound today that was mentioned earlier. It sounded like a 1-2 second buzz when it started.