Powerz69

For the highs go with a 9011 HIR bulb, it's a perfect fit. I would go this way over HID just for the instant on, no warm up time.

I'm thinking of replacing my lows and highs with Silverstars.

You will be wasting your money going with Silverstars! Silverstars offer the same amount of lumens, or less lumens then your current bulbs. They have a slight blue coating that gives a whiter look over normal bulbs. That whiter look makes you think the bulbs are brighter but they are not as the lumens are less. Lumens determine actual brightness.
Your best lighting options with a halogen bulb would be HIR bulbs.


Hi Beam: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours.
Hi Beam ... HIR1(9011), 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 400 hours.
Silverstar ultra: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 100 hours.

Lo Beam: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1006 lumens, 360 hours.
Lo Beam ... HIR2(9012), 12.8V, 55W, 1875 lumens, 1000 hours.
Silverstar ultra: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1000 lumens, 200 hours.

HID capsule - 35 watts - 2800 lumens

Are you looking for better low beams or high beams?

Search.......

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/1935-headlight-assembly/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bremoval#entry13026

Really? I couldn't get the headlights out without removing the 3 screws on the end of the bumper. I removed the 5 push in clips at each wheel wells, 4-5 clips on top of the grill, 3 screws on each side of the bumper and 3 bolts from each headlight.

I would like to know how much the grill and bumper has to bend to get the headlight out? Out of fear I never overly bent mine.

Picture with my bumper lowered.

If you use Google chrome there will be a shield in top right hand corner in the address bar. Press the shield and click "load unsafe script". Click and download the file, the file will save now. I cannot get the latest IE to work.

It's a pain in the a$$ to get the headlights out. As for the permaseal heat and pick a corner to start working on. Try to slide a small flat blade screwdriver along the edges to loosen the permaseal up. Once you can get a 1/4 way open the rest is a lot easier. You will chew up the plastic channel but you can straighten it out very good with a heatgun after. You are thinking to much about it, since you opened headlights before it's the same just a bit longer and tougher. WEAR GLOVES!

When I initially bought my DJ, I pushed the switch in to turn on the fogs. I have never pushed it again, and the fogs come on as soon as I turn on my lights. Works every time. Is it supposed to be this way?

Yes!

The plastic piece can be pried and pulled off. The fog light housing itself has the nuts behind the bumper, so removing the plastic does nothing really.

I actually didn't try to flash having low beam off, will definitely test

I'm kind of curious now also. My thinking still says there will be no or hardly any difference, because the LED only needs a little bit of power to run. It would be cool if it did get brighter though.

What Totemus did was remove the high beam bulb(9005) from the factory location and installed a led bulb in there instead. The DRL are the high beams at half power or something like that. Because it's a led bulb now it won't give off the bright light like a 9005 bulb would. So the question was,

how can you flash with highbeams during the day?

(you know... when on a highway you meet an old man, driving with his hat on, on the left lane, at 10 mph... the highbeams are useful to say "get the f**k ou of my way you d**n a*****e in morse code )

Because of the led replaces the 9005 high beam bulb it won't get brighter so it can only be used as DRL all the time, not high beams. If you flash your stock high beams while driving your DRL will turn back to regular voltage and your brights will be on alerting oncoming drivers.

i mean,

it seems that you can use the high beams only when the headlights are on

So what is being said here is, because of using the led bulb the flash to pass will not work. The projector has 1 HID bulb. the low beam has have a cutoff shield that will go in front of the bulb so there will be no glare in oncoming drivers eyes. The high beam is the cutoff shield dropped exposing all the light everywhere, but the high beam only works if the low beam light is on. So on the Journey the lights will have to be on in order to have a high beam, and a flash to pass will work this way.

I like that shroud...looks great in there! You are still mounting them to the bowl though, correct? Should get quite a bit of adjustment that way...just need to get them close. What lights are you using?

Yes the projectors will be mounted to the bowls with bolts. I'm just going to be using cheap bulbs for now, 4300k and 5000k which ever I like best more likely the 4300k as the 5000k are old and used. I'm waiting untill TRS has another sale on their CBI bulbs and I'll buy those, just for the price of shipping to me. I'm using CBI bulbs in my FX-R projector I did to my truck and love them. At $200 I think they are worth it, but now TRS has their new bulbs out that are susposed to be just as good for $50.

*** sorry for the thread hijack, I'll make my own.

Realistically, you will probably need to do some adjusting anyway... I suppose if you tightened the 3 bolts in the right order you could get really damn close, but it will still be off by a little bit. What are you planning on using? Will they require cutting of the bowl and some kind of mounting that would prevent you from using the adjusters?

Didn't realize that the Gatlings only fit the MH1's...guess you learn something every day. Do the 6.0's have the foreground limiters? Wish I would have took those out.

I'm doing a MD2S 3.0 with Apollo 2.0 shrouds. Yes I have to cut up the bowls to sink the projectors to fit the large shrouds. This is what I have so far.

I type all day... ha!

There is a lot of adjustment in the mounts for the lights... I can't speak for Totemus, but I adjusted mine with the mounts and the aiming screw on the back.

Great! So I'm thinking once I get my projectors mounted I'll take a white marking pen and mark around the 3 mounting bolts on the headlight. That way when I reinstall them after fitting my shrouds the headlights should be exact as to where the projectors were when mounted.

No worries... If they are 2.5" then they are probably "mini's"... Do you know the bulb size D2S or H1?? That would pretty much tell me what projector you are using... I'm trying to get pics of mine up, but at the moment my phone is being a pain in the ass about emailing the pics, and I can't access photo hosting websites from work. Worst case I will get them up this evening.

Mine have foreground limiters on them which basically block light close to the vehicle... the idea being that bright light close to you strains your eyes and causes less visibility at a distance... I'm not sure I like the way the light is blocked close to the vehicle, but I'm sure I'll get used to it. I do need to replace my Fogs now though... They are a nasty yellow compared to the cool white color of the headlights... Kind of looks like ass. But, the projectors turned out Nice!

Looks great either way my man, just trying to compare my setup to yours based on what hardware you are using.

I would say MH1 6.0. Just because the shroud is a mini Gatling gun and only fits on the MH1. The 6.0 because a retrofitter did it and would have used current projectors. The shrouds on the MD2S are huge.

Cut off line. Took sooo long to get to making photos

When I test fitted my retro and put the OEM headlight back in I noticed my factory cutoff is lower by 2" at 5' on one side now. So when you installed your lights did you have lots of adjusting of the headlights? Or did you just install and adjust the lights vertically to line up your cutoff? Your cutoff looks great, very even.

Lots of wasted words right there... These are retrofitted projectors (as suggested by the title and the large number of posts in the thread). They are the proper way to utilize HID headlights to ensure that they DON'T blind oncoming traffic. Your rant is a waste of space and all of the peoples' time who will read it and wonder what the hell you are talking about. If you want to rant about scattered light from people using HIDs improperly there are plenty of those types of posts. Totemus spent big $ to get it done the CORRECT way and it turned out great. Next time you go on a rant you should actually read the posts...

You type faster then I do. LOL

So you're telling me these are high beams at ALL time? I'm sorry for being a party pooper, but if that's the case then it's the stupidest thing ever, no matter how good looking they are.

People keep forgetting about the "utility" part of the headlights: you need to see the road WITHOUT blinding incoming traffic. Where I'm from you don't drive 100% of the time on highway, and even if you do it's not really nice to follow up someone with high beams on. Watch the road when someone signals to take your highbeams off, they might unload some LED bars on you and I promise you, a 50" LED and some projectors on a JEEP on a dark road will be scary.

Cool looking lights, unfortunate they're just high beams

Your post sounds like it's aimed(pun) more towards a PNP HID KIT then a BI-XENON HID projector retrofit. They say pictures are worth a thousand words, well I hope the pictures in this thread never showed up for you because of your post you made. Do a search on what a BI-XENON projector is and come back and read your post as it makes no sense.

Take your time! There's no point in trying to rush it and end up redoing them cause you weren't happy with something. At least the paint will be fully cured now.

The issue is the space of the headlight surround. It tappers inward towards the bowl, and measures at 4, 3/16" closest spot. So even if your projector is dead centre it still has to fit in the headlight surround and still have space for vertical headlight adjustment. If you factor in everything it's either go with the mini Gatling gun shroud it fits with no issues, or go with a 2.5-3" projector shroud and make it fit by cutting the headlight surround. Both are doable it's just how much work do you want to do.

Other option is MD2S square projector with a square Apollo 2.0 shroud. I also think the square projector will look good in the Journeys headlights.

If your lights are factory they will be permaseal. The problem with permaseal is not the outside stuff it's the inside stuff does not get hot enough to melt so it can take 3-6 bakes to get them fully opened.

How much room is there with that shroud on the projector? Could we go a little bigger? I've had the mini h1 6.0 before with the gatlingun shroud, seems a bit small for our housings tho......looks good BTW I woul just use a bigger shroud

The shrouds that fit 2.5" - 3" projectors will be too big. I'm in the process of fitting a MD2S 3.0 projector with Apollo 2.0 shrouds. This is turning out to be a full blown retro. Projector needed to be cut into housing as it stuck out too far with the shroud on. Now the shroud needs to be cut because it's to long, and the headlight surround part needs to be notched out so the projector has enough room for up/down adjustment.

Right now I'm wishing I would have stuck with the MH1 because I don't have the time needed for a MD2S retro.

Turn signals only need to be visible, they don't need a chrome finish behind them to project a light beam forward as low and high beams do. If the incandescent bulb isn't bright enough, a single LED tower will do the job.

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Yes, but the turn signals also have the bulb shield in front of them. I'm just thinking if the bowls are black the reflection won't be bright. I'm just wondering if the bowls are black maybe the bulb shield should be removed to exposes the front of the bulb.

Looking good!

What are your plans for the signal lights? Just curious because you stripped the chrome off.

WICKED, I cannot wait for the pictures!

My DRL come on when in drive, even when the lights are set to the park lights only position. It drives me crazy!

What kind of phone do you have?

Because he is a good retrofitter that has clients lined up waiting for his retrofits. :shades:

This was happening to me before the IOS8 update on my Iphone 5. I took the IOS8 update and the uconnect update with no difference.

I ended up buying a usb lighter plug and pluging my phone into that in the console. Now my phone connects with just Bluetooth for playing songs and phone calls with no problems.

I just found out NAPA sells HIR bulbs 9011 for highs, 9012 for lows. They are Napa brand and made in Germany. I'm picking up some 9011 for my highs to go with my retrofit. The only downfall is they cost $55 a bulb.