Neto

Two to add:
One off-brand, our 'new to us' family car (AKA, my wife's car): 2019 Honda CR-V
2019 Ram Classic.
 
(Need to sell: the Grand Caravan and/or the Journey)
 
I also see that I failed to mention the 75 Dodge Dart slant-six I bought, and later gave to my oldest son.  (Needs some repair work, and currently not tagged.)

Great resource!  I saw that there is a chapter (20) on the standard transmission.  Was that available in cars destined to stay in Mexico?  Where else?  (I still distrust automatics.)

I definitely get it about all of the computerized bells & whistles.  I don't even care for the electric stuff, like power window winders.  I know how to roll a window up & down, no problem.  Personally, having learned to drive w/o even power brakes etc, I also have a strong dislike for ABS.  Our small street empties out on a larger street on a fairly steep down-hill slope.  When there is heavy snow fall, the township usually only gets the center of our street cleared.  So descending to the stop sign, the right wheels are both on packed snow, while only the left wheels have traction.  So the ABS senses that the right wheels are sliding while the left side wheels are still rotating, and shuts down the brakes.  So then you just go right on down the hill into the cross traffic.  My wife just takes the long route, out the other way.  (I do find that it stops better if I put it into neutral going down that hill.  Something about having the main braking wheels - the front - being the powered wheels as well just doesn't help vehicle control on slippery surfaces.  The wheels that are expected to do the majority of the braking are trying to spin at the same time.)

There's a decent YouTube video here that shows this job and how to deal with the electrical and transmission connectors

 
 

I have a 46 Plymouth, and yes, of course it is 6 volt, so much larger gauge wire everywhere.  I also had a 93 Chrysler T&C that I scrapped out after the Rust devil got it.  I found various places where the wires were broken in the 93, especially in the engine harness, where movement of the engine results in constant flexing.  I have compared the wiring in the two vehicles, gauge for gauge, and the difference, and the key in the case of wires that sustain daily flexing, is the strand count.  The finer the strands, the more flexible they are, and the longer it will take before that flexing results in broken wires.  (For an extreme example, compare automobile wire to stranded wire used in buildings where conduit is required.  The building wire is available at a significantly lower cost, but the strand count is much lower for the same gauge.  Very stiff in comparison.)

I definitely get it about all of the computerized bells & whistles.  I don't even care for the electric stuff, like power window winders.  I know how to roll a window up & down, no problem.  Personally, having learned to drive w/o even power brakes etc, I also have a strong dislike for ABS.  Our small street empties out on a larger street on a fairly steep down-hill slope.  When there is heavy snow fall, the township usually only gets the center of our street cleared.  So descending to the stop sign, the right wheels are both on packed snow, while only the left wheels have traction.  So the ABS senses that the right wheels are sliding while the left side wheels are still rotating, and shuts down the brakes.  So then you just go right on down the hill into the cross traffic.  My wife just takes the long route, out the other way.  (I do find that it stops better if I put it into neutral going down that hill.  Something about having the main braking wheels - the front - being the powered wheels as well just doesn't help vehicle control on slippery surfaces.  The wheels that are expected to do the majority of the braking are trying to spin at the same time.)

Sounds like a great drive, especially in the Plymouth! I've always wanted to live near, and drive on, Route 66 in my lifetime. Fortunately, I got to live in Kingman, Arizona for a bit before coming to Clinton. So now, I can enjoy a piece of Americana on a regular basis. Just don't have the classic ride to do it with. The Journey will have to do. 

Only family I have here is my kids and ex-wife in Choctaw. Had only lived in the Western part of the States before. With the exception of a few snags, it's nice to be here.

We bought our 2009 Journey used in Florida, a 'rear plate only' state, so it didn't have any holes drilled in the front bumper skin.  I just went the pull tie route, sort of planning to make a bracket that would fasten to the steel structure behind the grill, and stick through in order to fasten the tag in place.  But I never got it done, and a year or so back Ohio dropped the requirement for a front plate.  So when after years of use one of the pull ties broke, off it came.

2009 FWD Journey, 4 banger.  Southern part of the Ohio 'Snow Belt" (I call this the salt belt. Holmes County hills.  Narrow back roads, sharp turns, steep assents & descents.)
That said, what I've noticed is that ABS works against you when attempting to slow down on a descent, down to a stop sign.  The Journey does better if I put it into Neutral as I come down to the stop sign at the end of our street.  (My wife just avoids that way leaving our street, and takes the round-about route out to the main road.)  This car does well in snow, I'd say.  But then I slow down for bad conditions.  I grew up in Oklahoma, where we had more ice covered roads than snow.  Remember one time on a trip back to Oklahoma - hit an ice storm in Missouri.  Put up in a motel early that Saturday afternoon, because the heater couldn't keep the ice off of the wipers.  Next morning went back out on the highway, and the ice was still all there.  Solid sheet.  Driving about 25 MPH.  A PU with a camper goes by at about 40, does a few donuts in front of us, down through the median, back up on the road, and away he went.  Didn't learn a solitary thing.
Anyway, never had problems with our Journey on packed snow here in Ohio.

It’s the same with a lot of the nanny safety systems. Imbed it in the cars controls so you have to fix it.
I think any check engine light what so ever and cruise control is disabled.
 
There is also a relay under hood in main panel for abs. But fuse and/or relay to disable and it’s probably same result, no cruise and idiot light on dash. 2late4u had his disabled by the dealership. They would know the better way so car is driveable and not in limp mode. But if disabled, there will always be a light.

I started to drive in the snow in the early 70s in the mountains and I still remember how to drive without the ABS system. Piss_s me off to see car company taking advantage of such a costly system to fix when it breaks down. More hassle than anything else for us . I would even go as far as qualifying this ABS system as pretty stupid when one of its components fails. At least if the cruise control could still work when the ABS light goes on. Anyhow, I am up to a point now where it's either disabling it or getting it fixed . My scanner won't explain  me any ABS code and appropriate scanner sure ain't cheap.

Thank you to all! And to Neto, I'm originally from Washington (State). Ex-wife &[ 2 kids live around OKC. Suggested I'd be happier here, so, I moved here in May. Loving the Southern hospitality!

Welcome.  I am an Okie in exile (Ohio).  Grew up north of Tulsa.

Sadly NO, replaced by the '11 DJ for him 3 years ago now. BUT right after that his girlfriend found another 04 Neon with alloys, so we let her use those rims (with snows on them) for her car. She JUST traded it in for a '19 Jeep Comanche 2 weeks ago.
It also sounds like you and I are of the same mind about cars and "pack ratting" parts for them!   ...   LOL    

I think I did look there, but I will go with the site 2Late4U suggested.  I'm holding off yet, because I may offer the snow tires and wheels along with the 2009 Journey when it sells.  But I actually haven't advertised yet.  I don't like to sell stuff - having people try to get the price way down.  I'm used to keeping a vehicle until it's ready for the scrap yard, so I don't have experience in selling used cars.
Also, before the Journey went to the shop for an extended vacation, I had repainted the wheel covers, because the paint had flaked off almost entirely on some of them.  (I wonder if it's from going through the car wash.  I do it mostly in the winter, after driving in the salt, of which they use more than necessary around here.) Then I did a bit of "custom" hand painting on the wheel cover centers:
 
(Not perfect at all - I don't have the steady hand like I did back when I was only 1/3 my current age - even did a bit of pinstripping by hand back then.  The centers of these in stock form are all silver.  I was tempted to do them in red, but this matches the other emblems on the car.)
 

Thanks much.  That's the best price I've seen yet.  (Best I found came to $50.00 for 20, $1.50 ea. no shipping.)  This one comes out to just under 40 including shipping, for all 20, around $25.00 for my minimum of 12.  (3 per wheel.  That's how many are actually securing the wheel cover.)

rock auto looks like they have your NUTS check them out.......
009 DODGE JOURNEY 3.5L V6 Wheel : Lug Nut     Related Parts         PTC 98138 Info Steel Wheels; Wheel Nut M12-1.50 Flattop     Do you need a Torque Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench?     $1.39 $1.39

you probally need to go to your dealership for the lugs you are wanting  since you are using steel rims instead of the alloy rims that are more standard,,that said  when i bought some new solid lug nuts for my daughters patriot i needed lugs like you are talking about for her center cap but since they were standard on her patriot it was  easier to find on amazon

Ok... hopefully the links work ..
 
01 DODGE JOURNEY SE WORKSHOP MANUAL (2009-2011 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_xuA6QF1MntZly_ggIJyDv6B6jmowE60/view?usp=sharing
 
 
02 DODGE JOURNEY JC MANUAL (CHANGES APPLY FROM 2012 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zX8rfowBmx1KZpx7zNHQENgcxjFnDjuw/view?usp=sharing
 

As the title states, I  have a PDF version of the service manual. I own it as I payed for it many years ago. I would like to share it but wonder if some one already post it.
The size is big around 250mb. Very extensive around 5630 pages each in 55 chapters covering all engines and trans.
 
Thanks.
 

Another common failure item at your milage on the 2.4 four cylinder is the CPS or crank position sensor.
You are having an intermittent problem;  this electrical sensor can cause stalling and no starts like you are experiencing.
It’s a wear item and only around $25. I would use a dealership part on a critical item like this. The codes that showed up on the reader scan included this sensor as suspect. 

Lightning bolt symbol and throttle codes would have pointed to worn/dirty throttle body assembly. It will likely be failing soon as well, still cheaper than changing vehicles. Good luck.

also fuel filter is in the tank non serviceable on most new cars not sure if you have one on a 2009 that you can change as mentioned i would add a couple of cans of dry gas to your tank and then change your plugs as well and might as well check your air filter

I take it that without searching your past postings that you have the 2.4 motor? How about recent spark plugs/ throttle body cleaning?
The "skidding tires" icon light comes up on both our'11 and 14 once in a blue moon and goes away, I think possible clockspring issue due to heat humidity. I'd not worry much for your situation there as this should not effect driveability. YES you may have had some water in the last fill up as you posted of your recent weather. Put a can of Seafoam in the tank and check up on your maint history. Spark plugs and throttle bodies are a common weak point to these 4 cyl. motors.

My guess would be that a wire (or wires) is/are broken where they go through the boot from the door to the A pillar.  It isn't logical (at least not to me) that the motor on the driver's door would also affect the other window winders.