onecrazyfoo4u

It's the norm...low beams stay on when you turn the highs on.

It's the same with any other vehicle that has a door (at least out of the 10 vehicles I've owned)...

It's the same with any other vehicle that has a door (at least out of the 10 vehicles I've owned)...

Do you think you bought a vehicle that was victim to flood damage?

Got the old (trusty) Journey back - she lives to die another day.
After Toronto Chrysler bullied us for two days (and made us pay $218.54 in the end for their incorrect diagnosis), they overhauled the transmission...yikes.
First, I must thank the dealership for treating us like human beings after announcing they would cover the remainder of the work under warranty, after the fluid + filter change and two days of unnecessary hassle, they also obliged to provide a rental after asking twice, a Hyundai Elantra. Thank you.
What was the problem? They stated a blown clutch piston/retainer seal. I spoke to the young technician who did the work, I asked him to verify the oil level in front of me before I left, and he said that he "threw in many new parts" and that it was his "biggest job".
Here's a list of parts in the invoice:
1 RL078723-AD Valve BOD 21-138-01
5 68218057-CA Fluid 01-081-090
5 Envoil1 ENV/FEE
1 68272623-AA Trans Kit 21-004-00
1 RL070538-AB Conv Kit 21-046-005
1 68064369-AB Cover 21-003-028
1 68020279-AA Retnr pkg 21-133-00
1 04412248 Spring 21-137-022
On their very own invoice it states that: Overfill issue would not cause Gear Ratio Error as per Engineering 09/22/15. Continue Diagnosis.
A few more of their Comments:
Complaint: Road Test after level reset - continue diagnosis
Cause: Gear ratio in 3rd P0733
Correction: Vehicle is slipping in gear...
Removed pan to check for metal debris, none found, fluid condition ok.
Checked clutch volume index. Good...
Recommend overhaul.
Overhauled transmission. Found 2/4 Clutch piston/retainer seal torn. Replaced 2/4 piston/retainer.
Reassembled transmission. Filled fluid. Performed quick learn, road tested vehicle, good at this time.
I asked if this internal leak/blown clutch piston/retainer seal would cause the level to vary and they said "no - the overfilled transmission remains a mystery". Going to call FCA Canada tomorrow to ask for a refund due to an incorrect diagnosis. Definitely glad that everything seems to be ok now, a little worried about the overhaul, but definitely appreciate that the rest was covered. Apologies to the avid members in the forum that my posts have been solely negative recently, there are many positives but the negatives seem to ring the loudest - especially with customer service!

Along with the good information from jkeaton, I'll add that the DJ doesn't have the engine cooling or transmission cooling capacity required for any serious towing. The DJ's towing is aimed at a bicycle rack in the hitch or a small, open landscaping trailer. Before you rush out and buy an RV (travel trailer), even one within your DJ's weight limit, look up the frontal area restriction for your DJ. Regardless of the weight of the trailer, you will also find a "frontal area maximum" that is allowed. Frontal area and weight are the two biggest limiters for trailers. The ability to pull a large flat wall through the air at highway speeds demands much more from an engine / drive train, than does a smaller frontal area as found on popup RVs or utility trailers and boats. I've been RVing for quite a few years and the DJ is not a vehicle I would choose to pull an RV trailer.

Its not a body on frame vehicle. Unibody can't handle as much towing as there is no "frame" to support the additional weight. Vehicles getting lighter and using thinner metal, plastic, fiberglass, etc. Trying to meet government mandated mileage standards results in loss of towing capacity.

i checked Mopar parts but I couldn't find it on there, so I think your best bet is to check with dealer. Is it possible to heat it a little and use a Mister Clean erasor on it?

DDM tuning is another good source for HID kits. Good quality for really cheap. Don't get HID's for your high beams, it'll be worthless.

First world problems y'all.

Nightshades, nice shade, bite shade...Lol you people. NITESHADE's damnit! And it's not irreversable. I've done it on several vehicles in the past. Just use paint remover or something similar to take it off if you don't like it. I've screwed up a set before and had to wash it off with paint thinner and start again.

Ah gotcha, thanks for the explanation.

I did not now this. Are talking about the TPMS sensors? Does that cruise control use TPMS for speed measurement? I thought they were just PSI.

The fuse is the first thing I would check (and easiest). On the passenger side under the glovebox. It's kind of hidden/tucked up in there.
The fuel gauge is a very common problem accross most DJ's. There is a TSB to replace the fuel pump module...covered under warranty. But it didn't help mine at all; it's 7/8 fuel 99% of the times I fill it up. I can only recall 2 times were it filled up to full after 80k miles! It's silly, but you get over it quickly. I don't know of anybody that had the TSB done and had the fuel gauge corrected after that. Seems like it's not a good fix.

Your sure the clear sticker covering the drain holes in the doors are removed? That was a common problem on many DJ's; Dodge forgot to remove the drain hole stickers on all the doors and the hatch. Check the bottom of the doors to see...

Your sure the clear sticker covering the drain holes in the doors are removed? That was a common problem on many DJ's; Dodge forgot to remove the drain hole stickers on all the doors and the hatch. Check the bottom of the doors to see...

Correct, it doesn't chime until you close the door after getting out. If you get out of the vehicle and leave the door cracked open, it will never chime. It waits to sense the door closed first.

I wouldn't consider the tie rod clunk to be unsafe in any manner. I have a very slight clunk when going over speedbumps. Have had it for probably 50k miles or so. It's so slight that I have to have the windows open to hear it.
I don't want to deal with dealer visits just over a noise. It isn't hurting anything on the vehicle. But, I guess I'm not as picky as other people.

I wouldn't consider the tie rod clunk to be unsafe in any manner. I have a very slight clunk when going over speedbumps. Have had it for probably 50k miles or so. It's so slight that I have to have the windows open to hear it.
I don't want to deal with dealer visits just over a noise. It isn't hurting anything on the vehicle. But, I guess I'm not as picky as other people.

I'd say it's time for some plastidip! Mine are slightly starting to do this too, probably from greasy fingers touching it all the time.

Correct, it doesn't chime until you close the door after getting out. If you get out of the vehicle and leave the door cracked open, it will never chime. It waits to sense the door closed first.

Late to the party but the 4 cylinder is inline, not V. I've owned both. The V6 is worlds ahead of the 2.4, IMO. Congrats on the purchase.

Looks like I've made the list... Do I get a prize? I want a cookie. And AWD lowering springs.

Haha!! I'm not going to lie...I have been keeping an eye on that for a few months. We've been neck and neck for a while, but you always seem to stay ahead of me by a handful. WINNING!