bramfrank

You can still purchase an extended factory bumper to bumper warranty. Buy it from an online discounter and don't bring it in until a few days or weeks have passed

As far as anyone knows, the 8.4A (which is what he was referring to) is reliable - even the one in the DJ isn't 'bad'. They do have a small number (relative to the total number in circulation) of units that exhibit issues; likely a manufacturing defect; but considering that the 8.4N is/was used over 4 product lines over an 8 year period, it isn't as serious an issue as *we* might think. though if I owned one of the affected units and had to suffer through FCA's rather idiotic protocols for dealing with the matter I'd be mightily pi**ed off.

I more than strongly suspect that the discount won't apply to activating the feature, but you can always try.

The CSR is wrong. They often are when it comes to technical matters. They are telephone operators, not technicians. The sales codes have nothing whatsoever to do with the radio; the radio DOES get the Sales codes out of the BCM via the CANBUS for options like the backup camera, heated seats, Daytime Running Lights, power inverter, Air Conditioning and whether it is automatic and whether it is dual zone or triple and so on, which in turn enables access those features and their configuration - if the radio was the storage location for those items you couldn't swap out your radio and still have access to them. The code is 4 digits long, from my records.

Once more . . . . nope. Your recollection is faulty. And just to make certain I wasn't wrong, I looked up the e-mail exchanges from when I had mine unlocked - the person who did it for me was never given the VINs of the donor vehicles for my two radios. I have 2 of the RB5s, the second was purchased as a spare to have before we figured out how to recover from the "can't unlock maps" issue. Both have been unlocked for my vehicle and just to prove the point in case my exchanges were missing some details, I have no record anywhere of what the VIN of the donor vehicle for the second radio was to have had available to give to the kind soul who provided me the codes. The unlock code is a hash of the serial number of the radio and the VIN of the target vehicle - you enter it into the radio and if the code matches the hash the radio will power up properly. You don't 'remove' the mate, you update the code in the radio to match the VIN of the vehicle it is installed in. If you install it in a new vehicle the code won't match and you need to use the tool to calculate the new 'unlock code' before you can use the radio.

OK, but you had said the required VIN was that of the donor vehicle in your post - that part was wrong.

Yours has the larger calipers They became standard in the middle of the 2012 model year. Before that point you could use 16" rims. The smallest wheels you can use are now 17" and you'll be amazed at how close they come to the caliper body

The 08-10 used a very different system than the 11 and onward do The best way is probably to install the OEM kit that FCA sells. But it requires that the dealer add the sales code which pretty much demands that they install it. Check out the offerings from Fortin (www.fortin.ca)

You turn on the radio and enter it on the 'enter unlock code' screen. Doesn't matter whether the engine is running or not. That is NOT correct. You need the serial number of the radio and the VIN of the TARGET vehicle; the one you are installing the radio in.

For the record, those things on top ARE the microphones. Two organised as an array and there a signal processor to provide noise reduction. If you have holes on the bottom of your mirrors, then someone's been busy with a drill or the design has been changed (doubtful)

Reading the manual takes all the mystery out of the vehicle.

The humidity sensor would be stuck to the glass if that's what the dealer said - and my vehicle has a box stuck to the glass so for once I guess a dealer is right. The auto dim sensor for the mirror is the little round thing in the actual mirror face - that's a photocell behind the glass and they left off the silvering to let it see the light. Those are the microphones for the Handsfree system.

There is no requirement for an inspection, and the paperwork doesn't imply any lesser coverage - this is the dealer 'strongly recommending' the service ostensibly because 'they don't cover things as well' after the basic bumper to bumper warranty expires. They went so far as to say that 'software updates aren't covered', which struck me as odd and was one of the reasons I phoned . . . . but FCA explained that the only software update that wouldn't be covered would be for the uConnect because it is user applicable - and, in any case is something I would do for myself if I was so inclined (I've left mine at CTP13 to make map updating simpler in any case). So I am inclined to skip their inspection, but was asking to see whether anyone knew of an overriding reason why it should be done because money is a terrible thing to waste.

My Crossroad will be 3 years old next week. I DO have the zero deductible FCA bumper to bumper extended warranty which takes me out to 7 years. My dealer is encouraging me to send in the vehicle for a full inspection because "they don't cover it the same after 36 months". I called FCA Canada who told me that while they don;t cover wear issues or issues related to trim and such, the vehicle is otherwise fully covered and that there *ought* to be no real need for an inspection . . . . . then the agent told me that she DID have her car inspected, even though she also has a factory extended warranty. So my question to the collective is: Shoud I spend the money and time to have my DJ inspected?

Yes, I do.

The mount points for the roller blind luggage compartment cover are not present in the 3 row Journeys.

I have one that you can have for $800 plus shipping . . . . tested and working. All you need to do is pop it in and get an unlock code.

They describe it on the work order as a link . . . . just have your dealer call mine and ask the service department just what they did to fix my clunk because they don't know how to fix yours . . . . my name is obviously the same as I'm registered here under and my dealer is Boulevard Dodge Chrysler and their number is 514 748-2955

Just went to my dealer for the same clunk for the second time - the first time it was on the left and they seemed not to have solved the problem. But I had the steering recall to do and gave them another chance to redeem themselves. And they did. It turns out that the left side HAD been an issue but that now it was the "link" on the right that connects the frame to the suspension which takes the lateral forces from the front suspension in turns that was loose. So both sides were loose, and the last time they only found the one (and probably ever bothered to check the other side) They told me they could 'hear it' but could find no problems, but when they put it up on the wheel alignment platform, they found the problem and then tightened the ends (and they also did an alignment while they were in there) and the vehicle is now as quiet as can be. I paid for the alignment, the link adjustment was covered under the warranty because my vehicle is just short of 3 years old.

Of course it is. You simply replace the module. Likely less expensive to do than upgrading the 8.4A.

Read up on it here: https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/tire-speed-rating

You'll need to swap out the radio module, which contains the navigation hardware and you'll need to install the backup camera. The radio module swap takes about 10 minutes - you'll need to 'unlock' the radio by entering a code that your dealer (or others, some of whom hang around o this board) can provide, followed by a call to SiriusXM to transfer your service, if you have a subscription, to the new module - if you get a 3rd generation radio you may already have (or else you ca subscribe) to traffic service. You can install the camera without changing the radio - once you've installed the camera (assuming you do the work yourself as I did) the dealer will need to add the 'sales code' to the vehicle to enable it. The sales code tells the radio that the vehicle has a camera - and does not need to be re-entered when you swap the radio out. Camera installation in my vehicle took me about 2.5 hours. As it happens, I have a spare nav sitting on the shelf available for purchase (I bought it before I figured out how to recover from the 'can't unlock maps' problem that affects a percentage of the units - and the one I put I my car never acted up (at least not yet) in any case. It isn't rocket science, though I warn you that the first few times you use the camera you do need to look around when backing up.

It may not be the best, but I've had this one for a few years. It has a G sensor and GPS - note that the GPS is optimistic. I have it mounted to the right of the rear view mirror and the GPS module is tucked into the headliner, the wiring is snaked down trough the left roof pillar trim and it is plugged into the front power outlet. There's better out there, of course, but not at this price: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Camera-Car-DVR-R300-with-GPS-and-3D-G-Sensor-2-7-TFT-LCD-X3000/32673027897.html

You can back up your favourites, but not the maps.

Well, there is no 'factory rust roofing' beyond whatever standard treatment they may do. Dealers might offer something, but to do it right requires some expertise. While a coat of wax provides protection for the paint, what suffers during the winter are the inside body panels and the underbody. Those require a proper water displacement spray job that is done my opening access holes and coating the surfaces with the protectant. Unfortunately on the DJ you can't spray the inner surfaces of the rear quarter panels because they are aced with insulation - though those panels seem to survive well enough for the 8 or so years the DJ has been on the road - you don't see rusty DJs out there. BUT, that doesn't mean that you can't benefit from rustproofing your vehicle. Here in Quebec we have Metropolitan Rustproofing and Krown as the big players. You would rustproof your vehicle to prevent underbody corrosion and to provide protection for exposed elements of the electrical system. Rustproofing also provides ome vibration dampening, reducing rattles that may develop to some degree. However the best time to apply rustproofing is sooner, then if you wish to skip a year or two at least you have the residual protection in place, as oposed to letting 2 or 3 years of corrosion develop, only to cover it in the oil or whatever protectant your company of choice uses. Don't bother with a simple oil spray - they need to get into those panels to cover the weld points, were water will settle and seep through pinholes in the paint. My 13 year old LHS looked darn good when it finally died and it was treated in the worst possible way; driven from a damp, warm garage at home through salty snow and slush to a damp, warm garage at work and then back home at night - ideal rusting conditions. And the only part of the vehicle that developed any rust at all was at the leading left edge of the roof, above the pillar where water apparently collects and where they don't/can't apply the protectant. So I suggest getting it done now and not waiting; it costs about $100 to do it right.