5rebel9

LOTS of possible causes for this code! How long have you had this ride and how many miles on it? Poor oil change{mileage} habits cause sludging and problems with the oil control solenoids for the variable timing system. also these engines use up spark plugs when using the proper suggested copper core spark plugs and SOME here have reported misfiring when using certain platinum tip plugs. I guess I'm saying a bit more history of the car and it's maintenance are needed.

How long{minutes} does it take to "overheat"? I suggest another test of the system with the dye. also do it with a warm but not overheating state. I hate to say this but....I think you have either cracked head or head gasket

Does the radiator fan run at any temp? NORMAL fan turn on temp is 217 and off at 213. High speed of fan comes on at 230. You changed a lot of system parts, but did you check for power and ground{ corroded or broken wires}? a good shop level bi directional scanner can test fan operation without having to run the engine.

Glad to hear the update and it's mostly successful results! And YES another PAUL HARVEY fan!!!!!!

ODD problem! ALL of the 4 DJ's I've had use an 11" rear blade and I get them at Walmart for about $11 US. They work fine and install / swipe / conform to the glas just fine.

OK My 2011 had a "no dash power off" issue when we got it. I had quite the post about it and what I did to find the cause. BUT what I did learn when having the center stack out was there is a module basically right behind where the screen sits that controls HVAC functions. With the convoluted way CAN/BUS runs in these cars it is possible that that module may be bad and causing the problem, IF you have access to used parts try replacing that module, but make sure it is one for the auto temp system if that is what your DJ is equipped with. This is definitely an ODD problem, I've got 3 of these cars{had 4 but sold one off recently} and never had this type of problem. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted..... and I hope all is now OK on the "other fronts" for you.

Seeing how this is such a "touchy" problem, lets back up a bit and do some further "sleuthing. Vibration was there with shaft OUT Vibration was GONE with fresh PTU lube and shaft out Shaft IN and vib. back, but at what speed? How many miles on this ride again? I'm fearing worn PTU or even play in FRONT differential carrier bearings{part of the trans.}. I've always preferred putting my "eyeballs" on a problem to try and access things than over printed word. This is quite the "quandary" to figure out, Good Luck!

Sorry to hear of more "glitches" from your DJ. I would have thought that by the year of yours this problem had been rectified on the assembly line. None of my DJ's have exhibited this problem, so I can't offer any advice to this concern. Good Luck.

As member 2late4u posted, yes areas to check. But to your further inquiry, YES depending on failure point IS on the board.

Most likely the circuit board in the radio is going bad{cracked solder points}. For your year the radio unit is plug and play for same type replacement, should be lots of radio units{not the screen}available at wrecking yards. Not hard to take the center dash stack apart to get to the radio unit, lots of youtube videos that can help you along about this task. There is a CHANCE also that the HVAC/radio control panel may be going bad also, Good Luck and WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

Glad you have made major progress ! A lot of work and parts, but now you can start ENJOYING the ride again instead of being ANNOYED.

Well my '14 sxt is now gone. My friend needed a decent ready to roll vehicle for his stepdaughter. She blew the motor on her later mosel Jetta turbo and can't find a good used motor for it. So Thursday I drove it over to his shop and made the transaction, a little "dickering" on total price{cash& used parts} and the deal is done. I hope she takes better care of this DJ than her Jetta. Friday I went to DMV and turned in the plates and registered the wheelchair van and put the plates on it so my friend can road test it to make sure all is good after his initial servicing to it. I hope to have it in MY driveway by the 16th. My friend has been totally swamped with work lately.

Also, don't forget to check the condition of the pigtail connector to the Battery Sensor. Small wires and subject to the same corrosion effetcts as the battery terminals themselves.

IF your front brake calipers use ONE piston in each caliper, order the smaller rotors IF your front brake calipers use TWO pistons in each caliper, order the larger rotors rockauto.com is pretty reliable for explaining the differences on how to determine what you need, I use them A LOT for my parts needs.

We have VERY SIMILAR backgrounds!!! Actually the viscous coupler is NOT spinning with driveshaft out, BUT the differential IS spinning on the spider gears and ring gear/and bearings. Just like the rear end of any RWD vehicle and why I suggested checking the rear diff gear lube. As I stated, I can't and don't hit the speeds you can{legally}, but I have to question that your vibration MAY be wear in the rear differential. What did the drain plug magnet show like when you "changed out" the diff. fluid? The front PTO also has gear lube and is rather difficult to check/fill. but low on lube or worn can cuase vibration through front floor AND steering. NOTE, both units I would NOT put on a list to just replace with new/reman. units....it would cost more than the car is probably worth. Thanks for clarifying things, I think all here now have a much better understanding of the situation. Keep us posted!

Only ONE of my 4 has the 8.4" screen and is a '13 model with no problems. IF you have already gone on the settings page and worked with the display brightness settings, then i'm sorry to say I have no suggestion for you Good Luck and let us know if you find a cure for this concern.

Just so I understand better.... you only get this vibration at speeds above 75mph? A bad rim or tire would show up around 50 - 65mph. Thanks to my area, I dare not push speeds beyond 70mph and only in a short passing situation. Is the onset of this vibration felt more thru the steering wheel or from the floor/rear area? AND just how "severe" is this vibration? Is it an annoyance or "OMG" I have to slow down till it goes away????

Welcome to the forum. Unfortunately you did not give much background info of any thing you noticed when this happened for members here to "go on". Do the heat/ventilation controls work thru the display screen? and is this the 4" or 8" screen infotainment screen with auto temp controller? Are you able to do any investigating/ disassembly /repairs yourself or reliant on a shop/dealer to do your maint. work?

Well it's been roughly 3 weeks now. The wheelchair van is paid for and after a full week of trying to get insurance for it{successfully}, I will be getting the plates for it this week when I can come up with the $$ for title/reg./plates. Had a heck of a time on insurance as the Dodge vin was listed as an incomplete vehicle and would not come up for a normal vehicle. Insurance Co. data bases have a special section for such conversion vehicles that it seems most "representatives" do not know about. Finally got it done and at a good price, even cheaper than any of my 3 other cars for same coverage! The '14 DJ is temporarily staying with me, till my friend decides what he wants to do with it. Higher mileage and some minor body rust but mechanically top notch

You may be on to something here! I took the OP's word on multiple balancings being done and should have revealed a bad rim situation IF the person doing the task watched the tire AND wheel spin. One would not expect to see a bad aluminum rim unless a very noticeable bend from say a curb hit or severe pothole. I did countless tire changes and balances in my day and always watched how the tire and rim for "wobbling" as they spun in the balancer. Also an unusual amount of weight being needed to bring a tire "into balance" should be another "tip off" to a tire or rim problem. My standard was anything over 4 ounces on a passenger car tire was cause for further investigation. My apologies to our metric standard members for not giving the metric equivalent, but I think you will understand the "gist" of my posting.

I can not honestly tell you how big a job rear subframe bushings may be to do, I've not done them. BUT inspect for cracked/misshapen rubber inserts and corrosion on them FIRST. I do know the bushings are a press out/in part to the subframe....my guess a pretty involving job. with all the other parts you've replaced, my guess is that you already have had it to an alignment shop for a good 4 wheel alignment?????

Would also be a good idea to check the fluid level of the rear differential and just how good is the flex coupler to rear diff. I had a weird vibration happen ONCE on my '14AWD and found the rear diff. was almost empty, even though there were no signs of leakage on the differential. Refilled it and the vibration I got went away and has not returned in a year now Lucky? you for your location for road speed limits. Here in NY posted limits are 65 on main highways, and with my luck the first time I exceed them the law is right there on me....even though I get passed like i'm sitting still!!!!

Well then, the worst that could happen on opening the switch is that it gets "goofed up" and would require a new replacement. The common factor I've found of switch buttons is the metal disc losses proper shape, not allowing contact to the circuit board when pressed on whatever function button. Be careful when reassembling after "tweaking" those discs, most all of these switches have a white plastic tape cover to keep the pieces oriented. Somewhere in one of my many posts here, I described this process.{but NO PICTURES}. The EVIC functions tend to fail in the same way as the cruise control , sorry I did not make the point abundantly clear. Good Luck and let us know how you do with yours.

So just what kind of help are you looking for about this? YES, just as has been posted many times about the cruise control switch on the right side of the steering wheel.... they tend to fail. I've got 4 DJ's and have replaced/repaired both sides on most of them. There are youtube videos on how to replace them, and would be better understood than giving written steps on how to do it. I have a long auto tech background and i've been able to take the switches apart and clean/adjust the contacts for the functions and then reinstall the switch{s}, saving buying a new unit. Note, this is not for a novice or "fumbly fingered" type person.

Yes, they ALL do that. it is possible that the interior dimmer control may be going bad causing "dimming out" of both screens as the OP stated as his problem concern. The way he posted{upon re reading his post} leaves me thinking his concern is only during backup camera mode, and thus is more likely to be a camera in the rear hatch problem. I've read of many backup camera concerns here on the forum....of the 4 DJ's in my care NONE has the backup camera feature.