John/Horace

Is it the 4 cylinder model. Probably electronic throttle body. It Should have a set a code for that.

Another possibility…Carcone reman stuff can sometimes be iffy.  What part was used ? 

Blue tooth module failure is most common issue for parasitic load. Something staying on and killing battery rapidly.

Fuse is in passenger kick panel I believe, try removing for a few days. . Need a meter to test amperage draw 5 mins after car is shut off. Should be only around 70-80 milli amps from radio memory,digital clock. Check all charging outlets for nothing being left plugged in. Glove box light not staying on etc.

C/V shaft probably broke. Look at the boots at either end of shaft, one will be shredded. Once they start knocking failure isn’t far behind. 

Try starting car in neutral. Is it the four or six cylinder.  There is a fuse in passenger front kick panel for the push button start, have you checked it, mini 10 amp I think.

It’s described as a silicon type fluid.  Talk to transmission guys. I believe units aren’t fixable if seals go.

People buy a whole rear diff from auto wreckers and remove unit.  Cheapest option.

Need to bleed out the air with the bleeder screw on the plastic thermostat housing. Pumps don’t often fail, if they do the seal will spit fluid and make it obvious.

Check all clamps etc air might be getting in some where.

Always scan for codes first, even if no light on dash. Injectors seldom go, 137k is low miles.

The throttle body is an electronic stepper motor design, Hitachi makes the oem unit. They are a wear item and will start to affect idle and codes will be set in ecm.  The plastic gears on stepper motor start to bind from wear. RockA has the oem hitachi for a reasonable price, when you actually need to change it.

Thanks for that info.  Yes it will be nasty job for sure.  My passenger tranny out put shaft seal already has a slight drip; have bought a new one.  So pulling c/v shaft won’t be a waste of time.  Usually I change CPS on cars once they pass 100k miles; don’t want to get stranded by a a $20 part.
 

The worst I’ve changed was on a Hyundai 3.5 V6. It was behind timing cover and had a 6’ length of cable routed all behind the the timing belt. Dealer part,around $120 as well. People usually changed it while doing timing belt.

My daughter in laws 2012 Journey 2.4 lost the CPS at only 80k miles. But it’s easy to change at least.

For rural winter driving awd is very helpful. City driving if flat and you can chose to not drive in storms; I wouldn’t buy it.  The journey is the best value awd imo. Simple system that works well. 

I’m curious where the oil came from that was in CPS sensor. Normally they mount in a blind hole, no fluids. Valve cover leak ? Which shaft removed, passenger c/v shaft and/or awd drive shaft ? Thanks.

I wonder if pulling starter motor off helps install access. It is also awkward to get at. New CPS is in my glove box waiting to go in, haven’t had symptoms yet but milage is there.

The factory 19” rims they used 2014 on wards are quite nice. Often found in black and not that expensive for oem quality.  Open spoke style.

Need to enable rear camera operation using Alphaobd program,. 

Car cooler will flatten battery in no time.  Would have to start car every 3-4 hrs if cooltron  is 3-4 amps like normal.

Led or regular style bulbs. Use multi meter to check if power is getting to actual tail light feed.

There are updates available for uconnect.   Takes some computer skills to follow it through.

https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

The plastic push connectors only have an oring doing the seal, as you have probably figured out. . Sometimes just reseating them will stop a drip.

They are used on all the newer cars with plastic lines. A new oring might be available from the dealer if you have to change it.

They are listing collapsed length as 86”, so it must have a sliding section or the rubber flex disc can be slid out.  Or droop when hanger bearing bracket removed allows enough movement on flange ends.

Mitchel mechanic site will give torque specs and other info with a paid log in.

Taper bearings  are usually sold as a set with a race, I believe.  People often pick up a good used unit from LKQ etc.

The vc coupling are a wear item, if car high milage I would just get a whole diff unit. Side seals on diff also wear out, hard to change in place pulling drive shafts.

I have seen belts that have same number be slightly different length, but auto tensioner takes care of the variation.

Make sure the spring is fully compressed on automatic tensioner.

Welcome. I used NGK irredium plugs, ,work great no issues.  If it’s wheel bearing it will get much louder pretty quickly.

My first wheel bearing went at 205k kms, passenger front. Not hard to change.

The heat shields underneath are cheaply made and the  fasteners fail. Need some large fender washers and self tapping screws.

The awd driveshaft has several of  these shields. 

Badly installed remote start can leave a mess. They never solder connections but use endless black tape.

Usually just removing the add on units fuses or main plug into the starter  electronics unit decouples it.

Doing live may have created issues. Try carefully with out arcing  against anything, to remove positive battery terminal for 5 mins.

Could even do the remote jump start feed from battery, will kill all power. The fuse box in passenger side kick panel has a lot of fuses to check if they aren’t blown. 
 

PCM units are very tough, rarely fail.  They don’t run on 12 volts, but are usually stepped down to 8 I believe. Protects them quite a bit.  Probably still some extra wiring tied to harness; check brake pedal switch for something added on.

Always start with scanning for codes. Even if check engine light is not on. Which engine, milage ?
Bad shaft would clunk but still likely allow car to move.  Transmission related item most likely.