mechanical-idiot

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/ Check out this site. It should have a diagram of the sensors for the 2.4 L. If not, call them. The number is on the top right of the home page. They also have an online chat. Goot luck. Let us know how you get along. mechanical-idiot

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2013-dodge-journey/electrical-sensors-engine.html Call these guys and ask them. They should be able to tell you. They also have a live chat online. Good luck. mechanical-idiot

There are days when I feel like throwing something at it for sure, but it really is a great vehicle to drive. We have had some bad luck, but every vehicle has some mechanical failures now and then. I am not ready to throw a TANK at it yet! I nearly cried when I saw this video! What a waste. Lots of great parts were still on the vehicle. mechanical-idiot

Just picked one up at the salvage yard for 75 bucks. Came off a 2013. Accident damaged vehicle with 43000 km on it. Thanks 2late4u, I forgot about the old junkyard ploy! You just saved me a few bucks! The MIL light has not come back, but if it does, I will be prepared. mechanical-idiot

I have said it before and I will say it again: This 2late4u guy knows what he is talking about. It is time to find a good mechanic. It is worth the money in the long run. mechanical=idiot

https://www.ebay.com/b/EGR-Valves-Parts-for-Dodge-Journey/33607/bn_1367938?_trksid=p2045573.m2388 If you buy it on ebay, make sure it is compatible with your engine size, model, year etc. Make sure you get a gasket with it or buy one. They are cheap enough. I hope this helps you out. mechanical-idiot

You could talk to the people who initially repaired this item. They may come to you to check it out, so you won''t have to move it. They might even put another one on the vehicle for you. I have a neighbor who is very mechanical. He says that 2late4u is correct in his evaluation of your starter. You could replace it yourself. Check on youtube. It is easy to do. Almost all vehicles are the same and the starter is in the same position. Just a few bolts and wires. You probably get a core refund for the old starter, so ask when you purchase one. If you buy one at the dealer, chances are it is brand new and thus the expensive purchase price. If you purchase one at a parts store, chances are it is refurbished. That is why they take your old one back and give you a refund. They send them off to be refurbished. That is why they sometimes crap out after you get one put on. It should have a 90 day warranty or something like that. I hope you saved your old receipts! Anywho......... DO NOT TOW THE VEHICLE YOURSELF! You can screw up the rear end on an AWD by towing it. Then you will be paying a couple of thousand bucks to get it fixed. Good luck, and please let us know how you get along. mechanical-idiot

You need to take this to a technician that knows about electronics and electrical issues. You are likely not going to be able to repair it yourself. At least, get it diagnosed by somebody. Don't tow it yourself, or you could create more issues! Get it towed by a flatbed truck that hauls the vehicle onto the truck and take it in. It will be worth it in the end. I understand your pain. We have had a ton of problems to repair in the last 3 months since we bought our Journey. I still love driving that vehicle though. I just wish that we had a money tree in the back yard. Hang in there, bad luck can't last forever. mechanical-idiot

Our bad luck continues, but on the positive side, we are really learning a lot about mechanics and electronics in vehicles! Our vehicle is six years old, so I guess we can expect some surprises! (165000 km) But, there are days when I feel like Throttling somebody at Chrysler! I can't afford this! Our engine light came on the other day. Stayed on. No blinking. Took it to a shop and a fine young man checked it out with some kind of a hand held scanner. The code was P0123 which is Throttle Position Sensor (or throttle body sensor or something like that). He cleared the code and the light has not come on again. So, if it does, I guess we have to replace the accelerator pedal and sensor since they are both in one unit. The dealer wanted over 400 bucks for the part alone. I don't think I will go back. Are the aftermarket ones acceptable to use? Is the quality good? Or, would you guys recommend a refit with a OEM Mopar part? Has anyone had experience with this replacement and have they used aftermarket parts (which are below 100 bucks)? If the light comes on again, I will get someone to check the wires first. Thanks for your time. mechanical-idiot

I'm no expert, but I think the way a person drives has a lot to do with how many miles they get out of their brakes. My wife murders brakes on every vehicle she drives. She is constantly ripping and tearing around, slamming on brakes about 40 feet from the intersection, sending everyone for a nose dive to the front of the vehicle. This drives me f#$^ing crazy! I always try to slow down much earlier than normal as it is so much easier on the vehicle. I am not saying that anyone on here is to blame for their brake troubles. I realize that the brakes on the pre 2013 Journeys leave a lot to be desired. mechanical-idiot

Just had the same problem on our front passenger side. jkeaton is correct - it was a bad strut mount. Clunking noise on bumps. Drove us crazy until we got it fixed. mechanical-idiot

Correction: tighten the hub nut to 160 N·m (118 ft. lbs.) everything you need to know including diagrams is right here on our very own site: mechanical-idiot

Check out some of the youtube videos on changing the hub assembly on a Dodge Caravan or Chrysler Town and Country (I couldn't find one for the Journey ). My rotors, brakes etc. fit a Dodge Caravan or Town and Country of the same year, so they may have the same wheel hubs. Someone might mention the torque specs and axle nut size in the videos. Possibly 32 mm size for axle nut (1.25") and 150 foot pounds of torque. I hope this helps you out. mechanical-idiot

Check out this thread. I am not sure if this is what you replaced on yours, but it was not a cheap fix. It sounds like your problem might have been the same as mine. I hope this thread is of some assistance to you. mechanical-idiot

Rear wiper is likely not working because the wire in the wiring harness on the back liftgate is broken. Mine did the same thing. It is a common problem with them. You need to pull the rubber housing off of it and check it. A neighbor of mine fixed mine for me. Mine would work once in a while. Then it started working when we put it into reverse. Both the backup light wire and the rear wiper motor wires were damaged and they were touching each other, causing the rear wiper to work when we put it in reverse. Your nozzles on your engine hood could be plugged or frozen. They are cheap to replace from ebay or amazon. Another common problem with Dodge vehicles in general. I have no idea about the radio. youtube has some great videos on fixing the above problems. I don't know much about mechanics, but I hope my reply is helpful to you. mechanical-idiot

I don't know if 2010 had an AWD model or not, but stay away from AWD. Very expensive to repair. We have a 2012 AWD and we will never buy another AWD vehicle. Buy a 6 Cylinder, not a 4 cylinder. 4 Cylinder is not enough power for the size of the Journey. We love our Journey, but they are expensive to fix if you get work done at the dealer. Trouble is, a lot of the stuff has to be done at the dealer because they have to update and flash things with the computer. mechanical-idiot

Thanks. I didn't check it out earlier because I thought it was for the police lights. Nothing is cheap anymore! Probably cheaply made, but expensive to purchase! Hope you have a great day. mechanical-idiot

We attempted to purchase an extra FOB for our 2012 Dodge Journey about 3 months ago. The ebay seller told me that he needed the FCC ID number in order for us to get the correct FOB for our Journey. If you follow the topic below, you will see a video that shows a guy removing the RFHUB from the back of the vehicle. The FCC ID number is on this part. If you are purchasing a new FOB from a site on the net (not the dealer), you need the FCC ID number on your RFHUB to purchase the proper FOBs. That number is on the cover of the RFHUB. When I called the dealer about 3 months ago asking them where I could find this FCC ID number, nobody could tell me. We were going to purchase an extra FOB, but ended up not doing it because we could not find our FCC ID number. You may not have to remove the RFHUB from the vehicle. You might be able to take a photo with your phone or use a mirror to see the code. I don't think I would disconnect it. I would try to get the code without removing it or disconnecting the wires. I am not sure, but removing the unit may cause an issue????? The less risk you take, the better chances of success. Now, I really don't know a lot about mechanics. I am just letting you know what was told to me. You guys probably already know this. I could't find anything specific about where the number is located on the vehicle etc. I hope this helps others out.

Thanks. I really appreciate the time you took to give me this advice. I just called Mopar before reading your post, and you are absolutely correct. https://www.mopar.com/en-us/store/product-details.html?partId=82215575AB 1-888-528-4364 They told me the same information that you just did. It has to be programmed and a used one will not just plug and play, even if you get the FOBs that worked with the used one. They recommend a new unit be installed. Installing a used unit could cause other "problems" they said. I did not ask for an elaboration. So, off to the dealer to spend a pile more money. This vehicle is killing us slowly. One thing I did learn from the above video is the FCC ID. If you are purchasing a new FOB from a site on the net (not the dealer), you need the FCC ID number from your RFHUB to purchase the proper FOBs. That number is on the cover of the RFHUB. So, all is not lost. At least this info may help someone else. When I called the dealer about 3 months ago asking them where I could find this number, nobody could tell me. We were going to purchase an extra FOB, but ended up not doing it because we could not find our FCC ID number. mechanical-idiot

$175 Canadian for the RFHUB plus 15% taxes plus 1 hour labor (for a 10 minute job) for a grand total of $316.00 Canadian at the Chrysler dealer. Apparently they are plug and play. Engine size etc. does not matter, but year does. Ours is a 2012, so only a 2011 and 2012 RFHUB will work for our vehicle. I am going to go to the local auto wrecker and purchase one. They have a 2012 there that was damaged in an accident. It is $60.00 Canadian plus 15% tax, which is a significant savings compared to the dealer. I think I can install it myself, despite the fact that I am a moron. The video seems straight forward. Thanks for posting it. I will let you know if it fixes the problem. Hopefully it does. Hope everyone has a great day. mechanical-idiot

Are these expensive to replace? I am afraid to call the dealer. My poor poor heart! We have been having a problem lately with both keys FOBS. Sometimes the car will start, and sometimes it will not. I can stand right beside the vehicle and it will not start. Then 10 minutes later, it will start with the FOB. The lights will sometimes flash and I think it unlocks the doors, but will not start the vehicle. As I have said, it is random, so you never know when it will start or not. So I am just guessing that it is the RFHUB and not both FOBs?????????? I really know nothing at all, so any advice is welcome. I think somebody has a voodoo model of our vehicle and is sticking pins in it. We have had a ton of bad luck since purchasing it, but we still love it. Thanks for your help. mechanical-idiot

We have the exact same problem (it started yesterday). It is working today, so I guess I better get the blend door actuator replaced. How many are under the front dash, and which one specifically needs to be replaced? I looked on ebay for them, but there are two or three different ones there. I am not sure which one to purchase, or if I should just let the dealer take care of it all? Are they idiot proof to install - that is, could a mechanical idiot like myself install it with no problems? Would it be smart to purchase an after market one, or go with the Mopar one at the dealer? All advice is welcome, but remember, I really know nothing about mechanical issues, other than what I have read here on the forum. Thank God for this forum, it is very helpful. Thanks Mechanical-idiot

Mr. Keaton, you are forgetting one thing, my friend. I am a complete and absolute mechanical idiot. I know nothing about vehicle parts or names of parts etc. Therefore, no logic exists in my brain to try to solve my search problems. I am completely and utterly ignorant. Thanks for helping me out - again, and thanks for your patience with me. You are a good man. Mechanical-idiot

Looking for the lights on the bottom, obviously. Not sure what they are called, otherwise I would have done a google search. Anybody know what to type in for the search parameters, please. There are a billion hits for different lights. thanks mechanical-idiot

Does anybody know where I could get a set of lights like this for our Journey? First time I ever saw a Journey Police vehicle. kinda cool. mechanical-idiot