Summer Solstice

Toronto, Ontario is in South America?

Check which brake version it has. There is a lot of information about insufficiently sized brakes on the early model years. Know what you are getting and whether this will be a problem for you.

Otherwise, I'm in the camp of older, good shape, decent miles, low price, short commute. Not a lot of risk if everything checks out by a competent mechanic. Even if problems crop up later, move on and your loss is small.

You will get plenty of haters, and lovers, here with such an open-ended question. Me, I like boring and very functional.

The bad peddle on my Impala, mentioned in my previous post, was also a Duralast. Since using a dealer provided OEM, no more problem.

The wire connector suggestion is the next place to go if the problem comes back.

Otherwise, remove the battery and take it up there.

Sounds like a connection and/or wiring problem. You either need the tools to DIY or a tow truck.

^^^^^^^^^

I work around race engines but I haven't seen quality engineering on that scale.

2 hours ago, keithisjonesn said:

UPDATE on FIX: Ok so I bought a Mopar CPS for $28. Installed it and it still did the same thing. I bought some CRC Intake and Turbo cleaner ($14) from my local parts store and performed the "Professional" cleaning listed on the bottle. The vehicle runs like a champ now and no codes! 

Let's hope it stays that way. Thanks for the update.

10 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part.

But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter?

There was a fairly recent thread on here about some brand of plugs being more problematic that others on a Journey engine, don't remember which engine. Can't say that I would agree beyond the fact I have had issues like that in other vehicles over the years.

I also recently had a peddle position sensor go bad on a Chevy Impala. I used an aftermarket from Autozone that did not solve the problem even though the recorded values were in range. An OEM from the dealer fixed the issue.

In either case, I would also be looking for an intermittent connection. Check all of the plug wires and other related wiring for loose or dirty connections.

You need the torque specifications for your particular engine, which you do not mention. The specifications will include the sequence to proceed in. Google "cam torque specs" for your engine or consult a proper service manual.

^^^^

It seems that no one knows how to fix an exhaust with a soap can and a coat hanger anymore.

14 hours ago, John/Horace said:

A whip lash inducing 83 HP.

That thing just looks fast!

^^^What he said^^^

There are plenty of Dodges on the road, both older and newer, that do not have this problem so this is not a "all Dodges are junk" issue. The system can and does work for the majority. You must have another factor involved.

Given the region in which you live, is it possible that the PS fluid is incorrect or contaminated? Do you have a freeze problem? Are the lines improperly routed causing rubbing, stress, or strain? Do you have an environment component that may be physically contacting the line and causing damage from the outside?

Just throwing ideas out that might be unique to your situation.

8 hours ago, vozaday said:

Looks like I need to dig further. I think I may have damaged a hose upon teardown or installation. When I installed the radiator I pressure tested the system and it held. I added coolant and ran the engine up to temp. Pressure checked it and it did drop very slowly, about .5 psi in 10 min. Chalked it up to it cooling down. Drove around and let it sit overnight. Pressure checked it this morning and it dropped 1 psi per minute. 

When draining the coolant and replacing parts in the system it is not uncommon to get an air pocket in the lines and passageways of the engine and particulaly in the heater core. Maybe these are working out and that is accounting for your very slow pressure drop.

Just something to consider as you keep an eye on it.

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Help what?

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/oem-dodge-intermediate_shaft.html?Make=Dodge&Model=Journey&Year=2014&Submodel=&Filter=()

Link to results on MoparPartsGiant. Confirm your engine and transmission.

There are also videos on replacement on YouTube. A quick search yielded related but not exact results by year or vehicle.

According to the Owner's manual for my 2016, the front power outlet is available in the ACC/RUN position. The other 2 outlets, the rear and the center console, are available in the LOCK/ACC/RUN position.

Consult your Owner's manual. Mine is on page 268-270. If you do not have one, they are available free for download on the web.

Hopefully, you will still be saying that in a year. At about 2.5 years in, I still find mine to be one of the most enjoyable vehicles that I have owned over the last 40 years. As long as you expect it to do what it is made to do, and don't expect it to be what it is not.

Seems odd that wiring would fail on such a new vehicle. Same for the motor. In either case, yes it is possible.

Given the fact that you are getting a buzzing sound, and you have tested the motor, are you sure you do not have a bind in the window? Maybe something small in between the window and the seal along the bottom? Just a thought.

Good news. Please come back with an update after a period of time.

I would seek a different mechanic's opinion. If your current mechanic knows that Dodge knows, but does not know himself, it sounds more like a biased opinion than fact. If he knows what it is, why does he not fix it? I don't see a lot of Journeys sitting at gas pumps, or elsewhere, because of some widespread problem.

Sounds like an intermittent electrical problem. They can be a bear to find but clearly your mechanic does not appear to know where to look.

On ‎12‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 6:25 PM, William Burke said:

We use our 2010 DJ R/T 3.5L engine to tow our small 14' travel trailer (2290 lbs.) We put most of our cargo in the car. 

We had U Haul install a hitch with brake controller.

We added a weight distribution hitch and has been the key to safe handling. 

Just don't push it up steep grades! 

P.S. Our DJ came with a trans cooler, so I'm sure that helps too.

 

That is a nice looking set-up.

Check the Owner's manual for any fuse possibilities. Don't have AWD and don't know if there is a fuse but when something completely and silently quits, that is the place to start.

How do you know that it is not working at all? What are the symptoms?

Those who actually have AWD will be along for more experienced replies.

Thank you for the input. I have yet to do brakes on a Journey. Hints like this are very helpful when the time comes.