Bryman31

for some reason i was emailed THIS LINK from ebay today
 
it looks kinda cool actually, i was just wondering if anyone else has seen it? or looked into it?  or heck even done it?
 
when i type in the year it shows as compatible for the journey.............i kinda like it!

82210243AB
http://www.moparonlineparts.com/mobile/dodge-journey-pedal-covers-p-3528.html 
came right up

I do.  They look good.  I got them in 2011 when my DJ was new.  I don't remember which one I got because I made the dealer throw them in for free.  I will say this. . .   When I got it home I decided that the black parking brake pedal needed a bright top.  Had to modify a challenger clutch cover for that.  Overall, looks good.  Really sports up the cockpit.  I think the Mopar T shifter makes a big difference too.  Looks fast. . .  
 
Peace.

I don't have one, nor have I ever used one.  It also doesn't matter because every time I change the oil in my DJ (and my T&C), it's time for a tire rotation.
 
That being said:
You have to get under the DJ to change the filter (unless you have a 3.6L).  Either way, there is enough ground clearance with the DJ that I could change the oil without lifting the front end if I had to.  I'm 5'10", 220, and I can get far enough under the engine bay to change it from the ground.
 
Also, the change interval on the DJ is annual/10,000 miles/when the light says to change it (not likely before 5,000 miles).  It's almost always going to be time for a tire rotation when you need to change the oil.  If you don't care about uneven wear on the tires, get ramps.  That's going to be more effective than a pump.
 
My typical oil change on my 2015 DJ (2.4L) runs about $40 or less. That's using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator Boss filter.  I wouldn't bother changing the factory oil at 3,000 miles, but that's me.  There is nothing in the owner's manual (unless it's a new requirement for newer model years, which I doubt) about an early change for the factory fill.
 
Ramps will set you back $40 - that gets you a set of 12,000 pound rated ramps.  For the DJ, you could use just about anything to raise the front end up to an incline.  If you want to maintain a Pacifica (I assume the new minivan, not the old crossover), you would need to raise the front end to gain access to the drain bolt.  Throw in an oil drain container (pan + store 16 quarts of used oil) for $15.  If you want to perform tire rotations, get a 3-ton jack and stands (about $140 combined) and a torque wrench (not more than $80).  The price of 4 oil changes with tool purchase would be $380.  Compared to paying about the same for the first 4 anywhere else. After that? The tools are free.  And, as stated previously, you don't have to rotate tires if you don't care about uneven wear (I don't recommend that).
 
On a side note - Ultra Platinum is typically hit or miss when it comes to price. If Amazon and WalMart both have it in stock, it's $25 for a 5 quart jug. If only one of them has it in stock, it's $40 or more. As of 1:15 on 3/19/18, they both have it and it's cheap.

well you did ask?

hey that is  usually my line......

hahah that would be the obvious thing LOL

just assumed you bought it new,they come with with 4 free oil changes , well if you dont have them go to Walmart or a local garage a lot cheaper then the dealership
 

first off syn at the dealership is really high, 2nd just do your first 4 free oil changes at 6 k not 3 k just wasting your free changes. and by oil extractor i am assuming you mean a tube down the oil stick tube it would work but probally wont get all the oil out and or any residue that would drain out by removing the drain plug.after looking at the oil extractor kind of pricey and had some bad reviews . think i ( 65 yr old fat man)would stay with the oil pan and remove the drain plug i mean its usually only once a yr or so...good luck 

Why reinvent the wheel when someone has already done a nice write up...
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Dodge-Journey-Pentastar-V6-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide/

well this post had me thinking about my K&N air filter so thought id pull it and check it, it was a little dirty so i cleaned it the best i could and reinstalled it so i started looking over the whole engine and lo and behold the back end of the air tube from the filter box was hanging about 1 inch below the opining that it is supposed to be attached to, now that end of the tube is far back behind the engine and it is actually hard to get to. i know i have never touched it before i did have that oil sensor replaced about a yr ago so that is i guess the mech never got it back on right after working on it or it's been that way from new. i had to loosen the clamp to get it back on in fact i rubbed a little dawn dish soap on the rubber edge and the plastic lip to be able to get it attached correctly  and then tighten the clamp back down tight. i'll be keeping an eye on it from now on. with the beauty cover on top of the engine it is real hard to see this clamp. didnt have no codes or anything like that and mpg was about the same so it was just because of this post and not being in a hurry and just giving the engine a good looking over that i caught it....

watched the cleaning video so basically it's just a thicker K&N  filter, let us know when you get it and what you think of it, not a bad price think i paid about the same for my K&N yrs ago , hell i might want to get one so when i clean and wash my K&N out i could throw that one in while mine is drying as it takes them a longggg time to dry and K&N says not to use compressed air on them....

crazy how much the air filters are for our journeys, my daughters caravan filter was almost the same size and was about 1/3 the price of the journeys, i've bought the KN filter for my 2011 journey ran it for 70k and switched it to my 14 and have 72 k on it now havent had any problems yet using the oiled KN....knock on wood.... lol
 

i may try it out, even if it lasts 2 years itll be worth it.

yeah you got a point......maybe ill have the wife do it...she has patience.i have ZERO

IMO, dry is better.  I’ve had oiled ones mess with maf’s and gummed up the Tb on other vehicles I’ve owned. 

Lol. I just dab it into the chip and don’t worry about it.  If you are anal about it, there are better ways. More time consuming. There’s some videos I looked at on you tube but I was like I ain’t got time for all that. Rock chips are a way of life. 

Like I mentioned before no gains besides noise so hope you don’t mind loosing the 200 dollars like I did. My intake resonator is still on though looks good under the hood. 

What the hell, I'm buying one. If it don't work, I'll post it up in the classifieds....

Per the owners manual, wait for the light but don’t exceed 12 months or 10,000 miles. 

I live in California you can remove anything you want as long as your catalytic convertors are left in place hence the name catback exhaust systems. So if you want a straight pipe after your catalytic convertor its fine smog will pass besides you'll know its legal because no licensed shop will remove your catalytic convertor since it is illegal for them to do so if they arn't replacing them.

nice!  thank you!
 

I'll do you one better.  I bought them from Bear River Converters through eBay.  Their website is http://www.bearriverconverters.com/.  It looks like they relisted the tips I bought.  Here is the link.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/JST139K-PAIR-2-5-Black-Round-Exhaust-Tips-2-1-2-Inlet-4-Outlet-5-Long-/162285043356?hash=item25c8f13e9c    

Here are some pics of the tips for anyone interested.

close up pf the tips please?  id love to get some black ones.
 
also sounds great!