tjboston5676

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i put h&r lowering springs on my 2010. and i also put all new front steering and suspension parts. made a pretty good difference. some of it was just due to worn out parts, but the springs definitely make it feel much better, there's less bounce and it feels so much better when going through turns. i know you said you don't want to lower but you also said it was because of the tires? it only lowers about an inch or so and your tires aren't going to be rubbing anything. and it looks better lowered as well

leds in a halogen housing is just bad. they cause glare to oncoming traffic and dont help you see any better. either do a projector retrofit or stick to halogen bulbs. the best bulbs you can put in without doing a retrofit are 9011 and 9012 bulbs https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/halogens/1409801-ryan-s-guide-to-halogen-bulbs

ive never understood why most lug nuts come with a cap. ive had issues with and replaced every set ive came across

i have a 2010 with no suspension issues. but ive also repalced struts and put lowering springs and new sway bar links and everything. handles pretty great for an suv.

did some testing today and this is wha i found with ammeter in series with battery at first amperage starts at almost 2a then it after a minute or so comes down to about 1a then fades down to around 0.27a pulling the m7 fuse for power outlet 2 causes about .09 drop bringing me to around 0.16 there is nothing connected to the power outlet... pulling the m30 fuse for rr wiper / pwr fold mirror, j1962 causes a .04 drop bringing me down around 0.12 and after several more minutes it will drop to a resting current draw of about .02a with the above fuses pulled. also pulling the j13 or m13 fuses doesnt do anything, but when reinstalled they bring the draw back up to around 2a then repeats the above process. both fuses are associated with iod with the m7 and m3 fuses in it rests around 0.15 0.16 which is 150-160ma

everything as far as i know is shutting off. and i dont have the uconnect, and actually have an aftermarket radio, and it does turn off. i know i need to start pulling fuses to determine the ultimate cause, but just thought it extremely weird that a charger kills the battery even faster.

so my battery kept draining in the winter and was really bad when cold. installed new battery and thicker gauge cables and had not had any problems for awhile. over last few weeks im back to it draining after just one day of sitting there. i know i need to find the cause of the drain and i will hopefully get to that really soon. but what is really strange is that i connected it to a trickle charger, which has worked fantastic on other vehicles for keeping them charged, and on the journey it actually makes the battery die faster. and not only just enough to not start in less than 24 hours but completely dead, no lights, clicks, noises anything, 100% dead. i just don't understand how a battery charger can cause the battery to drain 3 times faster than it already was any ideas on whats the cause?

dang, you guys dont know what low is then... my ford focus svt only has 4" clearance on the sides lol. i have a 2010 journey and did the h&r lowering springs, and i do believe it was under the freemont parts. but think in 2011 they changed the rear spring and havent seen any kits for them myself.

the hirs will give you the best usable output. they will be a little whiter but still pretty yellow, but you will at least be able to see down the road much better. they do require a slight shaving of the tabs to fit though heres a good write up about halogen bulbs https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/halogens/1409801-ryan-s-guide-to-halogen-bulbs

i've lowered mine and built custom headlights, and painted the wheels black, as well as a few other little things and it is now a one of a kind journey and the only one in the world that looks like it. and eventually will get the hypertech programmer for it. will it make it a racecar? no but it will drive and feel better and be a little funner to drive while still having room for luggage, groceries and kids. just let people do what they want to do without telling them to buy a different car. if we wanted a different car we would of bought a different car to begin with

why do people always say just buy the vehicle you want? pretty sure a journey and a caliber look and drive completely different. some people like to mod cars and dont care what it cost. people like to be different and not have the same car as 10 million other people. i think a turbo manual journey would be really freakin cool. will anyone ever do it probably not, but if they did, absolutely no one else will have a car like it. are people not allowed to be unique?

it has something to do with heat, or atleast for me. did it last summer and i pulled the fuses. put them back in winter and it never honked. a week ago it got up to 80 degrees and it started doing it again...

had this issue on my 2010 during the summer. just started randomly honking. sometimes short honk sometimes for many minutes. i pulled the under hood relay rather than a fuse and it doesn't affect anything else. i figured since it was 100+ degrees it had to do with heat and something expanding and shorting out. never looked into though. i put the relay back in a few months ago and it hasn't done it again. temps have ranged anywhere from 10-80 degrees since then. my bet is that it starts doing in the summer again when it gets above 100.

retrofit a morimoto md2s projector into the stock housings or if you want to just keep stock housings change your bulbs to 9011 and 9012 in place of the 9005 and 9006. if you search on google theres plenty of info on either option do not put led or hid kits in the stock halgoen housings please

my 2010 had bad reception on the stock unit after i did some things behind the dash. i then later swapped in a new stereo and it had bad reception too and i eventually figured out it would come and go by wiggling around the antenna cable behind the stereo. seems like they may have used crappy connectors

the wires given the distance and some breaks in the line are a bit on the smaller side, yes. and i wouldnt know if the car had the same problems in previous years, but its apparently a common problem brought up in the forum almost daily during the winter. something is not right, if this many people have the same issues. it may not be the wires, i wont know for awhile. i should of taken voltage reading before and after at the battery but i didnt. either way this will definitely help the vehicle.

also today i had a stranger ask for a jump start, get to his vehicle and find out its a dodge journey doing exactly what mine was doing. i was like i feel you, i know just how to take care of this lol will also be investing in some better cables for future. looking at 1 guage cables with quality ends

Had my journey for almost a year now, and starting in december when temps got really low i began having battery issues. Went on vacation and left vehicle parked for a week, this was in galveston, tx at about 60-70 degrees all week long. came back and 100% dead, not single thing would turn on. tried to jump start and it would begin to crank but couldnt ever turn over before dying. which partially has to do with crappy jumper cables. so get home and drive it a bit and after about three days of sitting 100% dead again. it seemed fine for a week or so then it got really cold and of course dead again, and went on and on until i replaced battery about two weeks ago, every time you jump start you have to keep the other vehicle at high rpm for maximum output, which ive never had to do with other vehicles including big v8s. so after reading many post on here past and present and looking over my own vehicle, ive come to the conclusion that there is obviously a problem. given the batteries location and the under hood terminals (a break in the wire) i have determined in my opinion that all the battery/ground/alternator wires are just too small to pass the proper current for charging the battery or receiving a jump start. so what i did along with a new battery was add new terminals with 2 guage ports and i did the "big 3" wiring upgrade. i did 2 gauge from both battery terminals while also reusing the existing wires, to the under hood terminals. then i did 2 guage wires from under hood terminals to the alternator (positive to alternator output, and negative to alternator casing mounting bolt) i did not do any extra wire from battery to chasis as that is technically done at the under hood terminal. i may later add another 2 guage wire going to engine block. for the moment everything is working great and starts in the coldest temperatures now, no matter how long it sits there. i highly recommend all journey owners do this.

please stop putting leds in halogen reflector housings. they may seem brighter but will lack depth and blind other drivers. put an upgraded halogen bulb or retrofit an hid projector into it please.

where i live dont really have steep driveways. but my other car is a focus svt thats lowered and sits about 4 inches from the ground, so no big deal for me lol. i bought the journey for more room and and the reason i lowered it was for the stiffer springs/struts and a little negative camber. and because it looks better. it will never go offroading or anything rough. and because i like the way my focus handles its nice to still have a decent handling going to the journey. theres less bounce, it corners better, and just feels so much better than stock. i also did moog tie rods and end links to help tighten everything back up. old ones were shot. to be honest i almost didnt even want the journey, my wife did. but after doing some mods and making it fit my style better i actually really like it now.

no they are continental true contact. i picked them because they should be similar to a dws but have a bit better handling

i was talking about entire led assemblies not just led bulbs... i do not have them but plan on getting them soon. as far as install it shouldn't be more than taking out a few screws and swapping the assembly

Just installed h&r lowering springs on my 2010. figured some people would like to see it since there's not much info on the topic. I used the mopar struts for the r/t for the front. Had some for the rear but one was damaged and didn't want to wait longer so the rears are monroe. Unfortunately there is not many options for struts. would of been nice to have koni or kyb agk struts. the springs did seem a little loose when fully assembled and didn't even have to compress them. but under vehicle load they are not a problem. they do not make any more noise then the stock struts and springs. The ride is a little more firm and you can feel the road a bit more and far less body rolls when turning, which is exactly what i wanted. Another thing i was going for which was successful was less bounce on the highway, mainly because i retrofitted hid projectors in and every bounce seemed like i was blinding oncoming traffic. so much more stable now. but the stock struts were gone so it could only get better even without stiffer springs lol. And of course it is lowered at least 1.5" maybe 2" in the front. the rear is a tad higher than the front but overall im very satisfied. the only thing im worried about is how long will the struts last with the lower springs. before after

i've thought about doing it but the lights are expensive and no junk yards around me have journeys. but i have looked pictures online and they do take different plugs. and then theres the thing about going from a stop/turn/running combo light to a stop/running light and seperate amber turn. with that said i still plan on doing it sometime in the future. and will be following this thread to see if anyone has actually already done it.