cplmadison

im very late replying to you but I have the solution to this fault. This happened with my 2.0 diesel and you code was permanent and couldnt be cleared even with the Bosch hand held. What you need to do is this: Unplug the MAF Sensor (its the one behind the air filter box on the right hand side of the engine) Now magically there will be no limp mode, drive the car for 10-15 minutes at 60 MPH Now turn off the engine and turn back on to the ACC position, plug in your magical fault code reader, the code will now clear Plug back in the MAF sensor Now you will be out of limp mode and the fault will be gone. Too late for the OP but might help some others who find this through google

wow this recall came out while im away on holiday best get it sorted when im back.. my recall is outstanding according to https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/vinLookup

well I have done a little more research.. I have ordered a new Accelerator Pedal (with built in sensor P/N 04891586AB) for £29.99 off ebay dealers wanted £90 so a good deal I have also purchased a MAP sensor (P/N 038906051C) as both of these things were giving incorrect readings hopefully these will fix my problem, if not im going to have to take the MAF out and give it a clean :P This is on top of changing my discs, pads, painting calipers, fuel filter, oil change, power steering fluid change..... im going to be very busy :P i listed the part numbers incase anyone in euro land is needing the same parts

thanks I hope someone can help, I looked up the Fiat Freemonts but they are sold in the non english speaking parts of europe so hard to find the info im after.. from what I have been reading on different cars they seem to be getting less than 3 g/s on idle so something looks wrong. I'll wait and hope some euro type people can help I did phone Chrysler dealer in the UK and they said they only deal in PSI not g/s so couldnt help me. Very useful if Chrysler dont even know they answer!

Ok, so my ELM 327 cable arrived and I ran a few different diagnostic programs on it. My engine sometimes stutters on acceleration like it isnt running on all cylinders and then clears, the mpg is also lower than expected (about 6-7mpg less) Here are the pics: The things concerning me are the MAF is showing anywhere from 11 - 15g/s on idle from cold The absolute throttle position is showing 94.9% on idle There was also a P0513 showing intermittantly on 1 program only, which seems to correspond to the immobiliser key. I did have a problem a few days back where the car started and immediately stopped so I assume this is what it was. This problem seems to have gone away. Should I be worried about the readings I have found? Im not sure what they should be, although I assume the throttle should read 0% or close to it on idle? The MAF reading from other forums on other cars seems to be only 1g/s on idle? appreciate any help Im worried theres some fueling problem or MAF issue I have the VW TDI CRD PD engine if it helps (same as the Audi A4, Skoda etc) I seem to remember this didnt happen before I changed the air filter. I had to chop the rubber sill down a bit to get the lid closed as it was ASHIKA branded and "compatible part" not a 100% perfect fit

hey guys So I "acquired" the WiTech diag software, but I assume this doesnt work without the VCI pod as it doesnt seem to do anything with my ELM 327 cable... Is there an alternative to the WiTech software which allows me to program the vehicle, ie change timings, prime fuel pump etc etc ? I have the bog standard OBDii softwares (the free ones) but short of viewing and removing fault codes, they dont seem to do much else... appreciate any help as im having intermittant problems stuttering on acceleration and today the engine cut out twice in a row right after being started would like to get to the bottom of these problems asap as I have a 1000 mile journey across Europe coming up in 2 weeks! i have to 2.0 CRD diesel (vw PD engine)

i got me some Pirelli Scorpion ATRs should get 50-60k miles out of these (they have a 50k warranty I believe), I read others have used the Yokohama Geolander ATRs and getting 100,000 km from them.

how much clearance have you got between the tyre and the suspension strut? I have 17" 235 65 17s on my Journey and there is only a finger width between the tyre and suspension strut so not sure how much bigger I can go (definitely not more than 65)

hey i only have the 2.0 crd diesel version :P just going off memory from when I used to own a petrol car many moons ago... :P coming to think of it I havnt owned a petrol car in over 15 years.. :P but then it is like $9 a gallon over here...

take one plug lead of, start the engine, listen to engine noise, turn engine off , put plug lead back on. repeat until you have removed them all.. each time you remove a plug lead you will notice the engine sounds different a bit rougher as its running on less cylinders when you get to the faulty plug you will notice as removing the plug lead will make no difference to the sound of the engine, thats the faulty plug or just change them all :P get yourself a plug spanner, pull the plug leads off, unscrew the old plugs, screw the new ones in (but dont over tighten) thats pretty much about it :P you could always take the plug out 1 by 1 leaving it attached to the plug lead and see which ones are sparking and which ones arent that works too

maybe show your Dodge dealer this page: http://www.dodge.com/en/towing_payload/2014/ Only a moron would tell you that you cant tow with a car that big!

just put a $12 MANN filter in mine :P

looks good, just doing the brakes on mine. will be painting the calipers in a few weeks, I got some nice pearl metallic blue so hopefully it will turn out well. just purchased some decent wax and metal polish so will be giving mine a good clean :D are those the 330mm discs and calipers?

thanks, ive gone for the valvoline synthetic a little expensive but will hopefully be good

any idea how much fluid it holds? I looked in the owners manual and it doesnt state the capacity for the psf