cplmadison

im very late replying to you but I have the solution to this fault. This happened with my 2.0 diesel and you code was permanent and couldnt be cleared even with the Bosch hand held. What you need to do is this: Unplug the MAF Sensor (its the one behind the air filter box on the right hand side of the engine) Now magically there will be no limp mode, drive the car for 10-15 minutes at 60 MPH Now turn off the engine and turn back on to the ACC position, plug in your magical fault code reader, the code will now clear Plug back in the MAF sensor Now you will be out of limp mode and the fault will be gone. Too late for the OP but might help some others who find this through google

wow this recall came out while im away on holiday best get it sorted when im back.. my recall is outstanding according to https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/vinLookup

well I have done a little more research.. I have ordered a new Accelerator Pedal (with built in sensor P/N 04891586AB) for £29.99 off ebay dealers wanted £90 so a good deal I have also purchased a MAP sensor (P/N 038906051C) as both of these things were giving incorrect readings hopefully these will fix my problem, if not im going to have to take the MAF out and give it a clean :P This is on top of changing my discs, pads, painting calipers, fuel filter, oil change, power steering fluid change..... im going to be very busy :P i listed the part numbers incase anyone in euro land is needing the same parts

thanks I hope someone can help, I looked up the Fiat Freemonts but they are sold in the non english speaking parts of europe so hard to find the info im after.. from what I have been reading on different cars they seem to be getting less than 3 g/s on idle so something looks wrong. I'll wait and hope some euro type people can help I did phone Chrysler dealer in the UK and they said they only deal in PSI not g/s so couldnt help me. Very useful if Chrysler dont even know they answer!

Ok, so my ELM 327 cable arrived and I ran a few different diagnostic programs on it. My engine sometimes stutters on acceleration like it isnt running on all cylinders and then clears, the mpg is also lower than expected (about 6-7mpg less) Here are the pics: The things concerning me are the MAF is showing anywhere from 11 - 15g/s on idle from cold The absolute throttle position is showing 94.9% on idle There was also a P0513 showing intermittantly on 1 program only, which seems to correspond to the immobiliser key. I did have a problem a few days back where the car started and immediately stopped so I assume this is what it was. This problem seems to have gone away. Should I be worried about the readings I have found? Im not sure what they should be, although I assume the throttle should read 0% or close to it on idle? The MAF reading from other forums on other cars seems to be only 1g/s on idle? appreciate any help Im worried theres some fueling problem or MAF issue I have the VW TDI CRD PD engine if it helps (same as the Audi A4, Skoda etc) I seem to remember this didnt happen before I changed the air filter. I had to chop the rubber sill down a bit to get the lid closed as it was ASHIKA branded and "compatible part" not a 100% perfect fit

hey guys So I "acquired" the WiTech diag software, but I assume this doesnt work without the VCI pod as it doesnt seem to do anything with my ELM 327 cable... Is there an alternative to the WiTech software which allows me to program the vehicle, ie change timings, prime fuel pump etc etc ? I have the bog standard OBDii softwares (the free ones) but short of viewing and removing fault codes, they dont seem to do much else... appreciate any help as im having intermittant problems stuttering on acceleration and today the engine cut out twice in a row right after being started would like to get to the bottom of these problems asap as I have a 1000 mile journey across Europe coming up in 2 weeks! i have to 2.0 CRD diesel (vw PD engine)

i got me some Pirelli Scorpion ATRs should get 50-60k miles out of these (they have a 50k warranty I believe), I read others have used the Yokohama Geolander ATRs and getting 100,000 km from them.

how much clearance have you got between the tyre and the suspension strut? I have 17" 235 65 17s on my Journey and there is only a finger width between the tyre and suspension strut so not sure how much bigger I can go (definitely not more than 65)

hey i only have the 2.0 crd diesel version :P just going off memory from when I used to own a petrol car many moons ago... :P coming to think of it I havnt owned a petrol car in over 15 years.. :P but then it is like $9 a gallon over here...

take one plug lead of, start the engine, listen to engine noise, turn engine off , put plug lead back on. repeat until you have removed them all.. each time you remove a plug lead you will notice the engine sounds different a bit rougher as its running on less cylinders when you get to the faulty plug you will notice as removing the plug lead will make no difference to the sound of the engine, thats the faulty plug or just change them all :P get yourself a plug spanner, pull the plug leads off, unscrew the old plugs, screw the new ones in (but dont over tighten) thats pretty much about it :P you could always take the plug out 1 by 1 leaving it attached to the plug lead and see which ones are sparking and which ones arent that works too

maybe show your Dodge dealer this page: http://www.dodge.com/en/towing_payload/2014/ Only a moron would tell you that you cant tow with a car that big!

just put a $12 MANN filter in mine :P

looks good, just doing the brakes on mine. will be painting the calipers in a few weeks, I got some nice pearl metallic blue so hopefully it will turn out well. just purchased some decent wax and metal polish so will be giving mine a good clean :D are those the 330mm discs and calipers?

thanks, ive gone for the valvoline synthetic a little expensive but will hopefully be good

any idea how much fluid it holds? I looked in the owners manual and it doesnt state the capacity for the psf

So I had my new tyres fitted and had the wrong replacement valves from ebay, so they put temporary rubber ones in until I got the right ones. Now the right valve repair kit arrived and I have just gone to fit them and found that one of the TPMS sensors looks like they have tried to lever off a seized stem and cracked the plastic housing and the metal antenna that screws onto the valve stem is missing. So my question is, is this TPMS likely to still work without the Antenna? (i have super glued over the cracks on the casing) heres a pic to show the bit that should be there ! http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2542/5717111832_16a43325dd_z.jpg

actually found this video on youtube: seems much easier than removing the return hose !

Hi Has anyone done their own Power Steering flush? Mine needs doing pretty urgently its only done 28k miles but the fluid is pretty brown looking and I suspect its the original factory stuff which needs to come out anyway (dont want any blown hoses!) Just curious where the return hose is and how easy it is to get to. I have to 2010 2.0 CRD SXT (europe model) I know the engine is different to the US ones but I suspect the power steering stuff is all the same (just on the correct side of the car :P ) I'll be doing an oil change anyway so will have the belly pan off, so if someone could direct me in the right direction of the return hose that would be appreciated. I have 2 litres of the Valvoline Fully sythetic atf+4 ready to go in (I assume is this enough?) thanks

glad I found this topic, I just purchased a 2010 Journey 2 weeks ago with 28000 miles on the clock. I checked my PSF and its looking very brown. I drive across Europe a lot where it is sometimes -20 celcius so you guys have probably saved me an expensive repair job. I have purchased the Valvoline ATF+4 Fully Synthetic (2 litres, not sure how much I need the owners manual doesnt say and the Chrysler dealers computer systems down, seems lots of Chrysler stuff doesnt work properly) http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-85491-valvoline-synpower-atf-4-full-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid.aspx Cheapest I can find for anyone else in the UK with a Journey

I do my own but im in europe and have the 2.0 diesel mine takes a standard paper cartridge and 5w 30 synthetic (im using total ineo) all of this is probably useless to you if you have the US version lol :D

for all your TPMS needs.. http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-tpms.html?initiative_id=SB_20150313000458&site=glo&shipCountry=uk&SearchText=tpms&CatId=200000318&isrefine=y you can buy direct from China... Im currently searching on there for some Dodge Journey 2010 valves, if anyone has the part number please let me know

just fitted my Delphi discs (from ebay - autosessive shop) and EBC ultimax2 pads from (ebcbrakesdirect) didnt put any copper grease on the back of pads and absolutely no squeek or anything. Very happy so far Definitely recommend them not sure what brand the pads were that came out but they had less than 1mm left on them LOL (28000 miles showing on the clock) i Guess those were the originals.. i know the rear has mintex on not sure if they are stock? just so you know the EBC pads come as a full axle set so you get 4 pads, just so you dont order 2 sets (like I did first time round lol) Found some Brembo pads http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/brake-pads/car/dodge/journey/2009/2-0td/brembo-oe-replacement-brake-pads-front-pad-set http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/brake-pads/car/dodge/journey/2009/2-0td/brembo-oe-replacement-brake-pads-rear-pad-set

well im still searching for Europe based brakes using Frogboxs part numbers, I found these: Blueprint ADA104371 , these are 330mm discs and fit the Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD apparently fit the Journey too The other parts needed listed by frogbox only seem to be available from the USA I will have a look at the Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD part numbers I assume they will be interchangable Can anyone confirm if the Grand Voyager uses the same disc/calipers as the Journey?

i guess I will get round to putting the bigger brakes on once these new ones have worn out ! Does anyone have the part number for the caliper mount I would need? I assume i need to change the wheel hub?

my Journey is on 27000 miles, I have only had it 2 weeks so not sure if these are the originals, although they are very low on the front so possibly the originals. I noticed the rear pads are mintex not sure if these are stock or not. I have purchased some EBC Ultimax 2 brake pads they are getting good reviews and are only £20 for a full axle set. I have got the Delphi Lockheed discs, I think they are about as good as any. I found a very good website which shows you all the alternative part numbers you can use: http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/8243903/delphi-bg4212.html#interchange These are the brake discs that should fit your dodge unless its the new journey with the bigger discs Delphi Front Discs Part number bg4212 Delphi Rear Discs Part number BG4247 (2 year warranty on the Delphi Discs) EBC front pads part number DP1798 EBC rear pads part number DP1840 or if you want even better pads get the EBC greenstuff ones front pads DP61798 rear pads DP61840 http://ebcbrakesdirect.com/en-gb/Store/Automotive/vt/1/mk/5f0d2c15-4c48-4b75-9f43-11095fa2e09c/md/b662c6a1-a45d-4db2-8f55-f8f50baa9791/vid/97956f9e-9de1-4fc2-9043-d4d64c6100f4 just type those part numbers into the yoyo website and it will show you other compatible parts Other brands I would consider are Bendix, Blueprint, TRW, Ferodo if you can get them Also Brembo do front pads for the Journey (GSF in the UK sell them but i dont have part number for them)