bfurth

There's also a gasket in front of the factory intake inlet that keeps the largest bits of debris out.  The front edge of the hood will keep most water out as well.  After that, suction takes over.  A little bit of water won't cause any problems (these engines work fine in the 90% humidity of Baltimore!).  Just don't open a garden hose into the intake...

One would think that removing the original intake and replacing it with a conical filter surrounded by a metal box would lead to a slightly increased temperature compared to the original intake because metal is a better conductor of heat than plastic.  Surrounding your conical filter with a metal box that is still tied to the same front facing intake leaves you with the same air flow, if not even worse depending on how you build it.  If you insulated it (on the outside of said box - you don't want that insulation to fail and clog your filter) with non-flammable materials, you might have a minor performance gain over OEM.  It needs to be sealed up tight all the way around or it's going to draw in hot air from the engine bay.
 
Fabricating something that eliminates the foot or so drop and bend would possibly be beneficial.  But the point remains - the OEM intake is a true cold air intake in that it draws in air that has not passed over the radiator nor has it gotten anywhere near the engine before passing through the air filter and intake manifold.

One would think that removing the original intake and replacing it with a conical filter surrounded by a metal box would lead to a slightly increased temperature compared to the original intake because metal is a better conductor of heat than plastic.  Surrounding your conical filter with a metal box that is still tied to the same front facing intake leaves you with the same air flow, if not even worse depending on how you build it.  If you insulated it (on the outside of said box - you don't want that insulation to fail and clog your filter) with non-flammable materials, you might have a minor performance gain over OEM.  It needs to be sealed up tight all the way around or it's going to draw in hot air from the engine bay.
 
Fabricating something that eliminates the foot or so drop and bend would possibly be beneficial.  But the point remains - the OEM intake is a true cold air intake in that it draws in air that has not passed over the radiator nor has it gotten anywhere near the engine before passing through the air filter and intake manifold.

If you took the time to do that, yes, that might make a minor difference for the intake.  If nothing else, you've removed a bend in the airflow from the leading edge of the hood to the filter.  To accomplish the full removal of that bend, you need to completely remove the rest of the original intake (that now disconnected black plastic box) and mold something to fit in it's place.

Not to mention the requirement that you remove the upper intake.  MY T&C with the old 3.8L isn't too bad, but I still have to change the rear bank blind.
 
I like 4 cylinder engines for plug changes - it's a 45 minute job if I'm taking my time.

"Ok Google..."
"Hey Siri..."
S-Voice/Bixby
 
No need to touch the phone.
 

My only experience with the drop-in filters was with GM EcoTec engines (my DJ is a 2.4).  I always threaded it and tightened with a 3/8" wrench and stopped at "tight enough."  No cranking on it ever.
 
For those of you who have a torque wrench, the proper spec is 18 Ft.Lbs.  So, really, don't crank on it.  That level is only ever so slightly beyond finger tight.

Pennzoil Platinum can be obtained for $23/5 quarts (WalMart current price, Amazon is usually right there with them).  Ultra Platinum (when it isn't made of Unobtanium) is only $2-$3 more.
 
Throw in a good filter (for my 2.4L, I'm using a Purolator Boss at $12 - don't judge me, I only do this once a year!) and you're under $35 for the best recommended oil for the engine you can get.  Get a floor jack and some stands (about $100) and a torque wrench ($40-$as much as you want) and you can do a properly spec'd tire rotation.  Sure, the first one will cost you a little more than a dealer ($140), but your highest cost oil change for as long as you want is about $30-$40.
 
It also eliminates the time needed to drive your vehicle to a dealer or oil change shop (20 minutes), wait a half hour, then drive back (total time wasted is more than one hour).  Versus get your vehicle warm, drain hot oil until it stops dripping (while you rotate tires, and/or have a beer - not recommended for the first DIY oil change...), then pour in better than what they'll use for less cost.  Maybe you lose 20 minutes when you dispose of the old oil (or you can store it until you have your next dump run - I'm sure most municipality waste acceptance facilities take used oil).  And now you know it was done right and your drain bolt isn't going to be stripped out from having it installed with an impact wrench.

Pennzoil Platinum can be obtained for $23/5 quarts (WalMart current price, Amazon is usually right there with them).  Ultra Platinum (when it isn't made of Unobtanium) is only $2-$3 more.
 
Throw in a good filter (for my 2.4L, I'm using a Purolator Boss at $12 - don't judge me, I only do this once a year!) and you're under $35 for the best recommended oil for the engine you can get.  Get a floor jack and some stands (about $100) and a torque wrench ($40-$as much as you want) and you can do a properly spec'd tire rotation.  Sure, the first one will cost you a little more than a dealer ($140), but your highest cost oil change for as long as you want is about $30-$40.
 
It also eliminates the time needed to drive your vehicle to a dealer or oil change shop (20 minutes), wait a half hour, then drive back (total time wasted is more than one hour).  Versus get your vehicle warm, drain hot oil until it stops dripping (while you rotate tires, and/or have a beer - not recommended for the first DIY oil change...), then pour in better than what they'll use for less cost.  Maybe you lose 20 minutes when you dispose of the old oil (or you can store it until you have your next dump run - I'm sure most municipality waste acceptance facilities take used oil).  And now you know it was done right and your drain bolt isn't going to be stripped out from having it installed with an impact wrench.

Wait, what?!?  2008-2012 Mopar large passenger vehicles have inadequate brakes?  Who knew?

Wait, what?!?  2008-2012 Mopar large passenger vehicles have inadequate brakes?  Who knew?

The letter is only a holdover from people who don't use the internet (and a legal requirement that you must be positively notified through an official means that there is a defect that must be remedied).  You can run your VIN against the NHTSA database and determine if you have any open recalls.  Usually, you can even find more information here than dealers will tell you about. 
 
Also, every car owner should register their vehicle with the manufacturer's website for no other reason than recall notifications (and quick access to owner's manuals, not like anyone reads them... )
 
Got mine done today.  Also had them order a new steering wheel control panel (phone/EVIC buttons intermittently don't respond) and new beltline trim for both rear doors (warranty repairs because they're falling apart/weren't installed properly), but those won't be delivered until later in the week.

It's a 2015 with a substantial reproducible problem.  This isn't rocket science - it's a warranty claim (assuming you are under 36,000 miles).
 
Maybe there's a way to add a mileage field for all posters with less than 15 posts.  That would certainly help drill home the idea that year, mileage, engine, and trim (we already know make and model) are necessary pieces of information when trying to help resolve issues.

It's a 2015 with a substantial reproducible problem.  This isn't rocket science - it's a warranty claim (assuming you are under 36,000 miles).
 
Maybe there's a way to add a mileage field for all posters with less than 15 posts.  That would certainly help drill home the idea that year, mileage, engine, and trim (we already know make and model) are necessary pieces of information when trying to help resolve issues.

Notices are starting to come out.  Mine just hit my Mopar account.
 
For anyone who is also having intermittent issues with the steering wheel controls for EVIC and phone - this is potentially affected as well.  Some of the potential warning signs of a chafed wire (which is what the recall is about in the first place) are illuminated airbag warning light, unintended wiper operation, and inoperable steering wheel switch.
 
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCLRPT-17V432-5557.PDF

Look at the back of the seat cushion - does it have a strap?  If yes, then the seat has an interior storage compartment and the seat back will fold forward to a flat position.  If it doesn't, then you don't.
 
The 2016 SXT required the Premium Group package to get the fold-flat front seat.  This would include Sirius XM radio, 8.4" Uconnect, power driver's seat, and daytime running lamps.  It sounds like you don't have any of that.
 
Something to keep in mind - the 2016 SXT is NOT the 2015 SXT - it's more like the 2016 SE.  They got rid of the AVP and CVP models and de-featured the SE to base.

It's a 2015 with a substantial reproducible problem.  This isn't rocket science - it's a warranty claim (assuming you are under 36,000 miles).
 
Maybe there's a way to add a mileage field for all posters with less than 15 posts.  That would certainly help drill home the idea that year, mileage, engine, and trim (we already know make and model) are necessary pieces of information when trying to help resolve issues.

With all the work to expose the plugs on the 3.6L, change them all.  It would cost an extra $30, but save you a day of work.  And, depending on what was wrong with the plug in the first place (assuming the issue was with the plug and not something else), the rest may not be far behind.

With all the work to expose the plugs on the 3.6L, change them all.  It would cost an extra $30, but save you a day of work.  And, depending on what was wrong with the plug in the first place (assuming the issue was with the plug and not something else), the rest may not be far behind.

With all the work to expose the plugs on the 3.6L, change them all.  It would cost an extra $30, but save you a day of work.  And, depending on what was wrong with the plug in the first place (assuming the issue was with the plug and not something else), the rest may not be far behind.

Use the Mopar filter for the 3.6 - there is nothing to be gained from using an aftermarket filter.  For my 2.4, I use the Purolator Boss PBL12222 (hey, I only change it once a year - leave me alone).

Your local dealership will sell you a fog light kit (there are two versions) for your vehicle.  The Mopar website lists them for $234.  The difference between kits is one is for vehicles with auto headlights, the other is not (different light switch in the kit).  Instructions are available on the ordering page.  It does not indicate any computer update is necessary for fog light addition (check with dealer to be certain).  These kits are labeled for use on 2011-2015 Journey models (your 2014 SE has the same lower bumper as is pictured on the ordering page).
 
Without auto headlights: https://mopar.chromedata.com/NextGen/C1111#/productDetails/274851/107562665
With auto headlights: https://mopar.chromedata.com/NextGen/C1111#/productDetails/2206248/107563148

I'm not sure there is one.  There is nothing in the manual about it's location, and the wiring diagram for the wiper/washer pump system does not indicate a fuse between the BCM and the washer fluid pump.

Ok, looking at how the repair is supposed to be done (by the book) - for the 3.6L, you are expected to drain the cooling system and disconnect multiple hoses.  For the 2.4L, the book calls for disconnecting the AC lines.  Why?!?!?!?  The 2.4L engine bay has so much free space around the engine!
 
Admittedly, I haven't tried it, and don't intend to.  I have a lifetime added care+ with a $200 deductible that covers things like this...

$800 for an alternator at 30,000 miles? That's highway robbery!  You can get an alternator on the 2.4L and 3.6L for under $250 new. Not sure about the ease of the 3.6, but the 2.4 is right top and front of the engine. No way should labor be $500 (that's 4 hours shop time around here...)