bfurth

Sadly, that cheap of a solution does not exist for the rubber stem versions. But I've still got a cheap answer for that as well. It's not perfect, but, as they say, it's good 'nough for gubment work!

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-22-5-00709-8A-Black-Plastic-Valve/dp/B000KKLLFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438356383&sr=1-1&keywords=valve+stem+caps
Don't overthink this.

They need to make money too. If they just accepted on blind faith any statement of damage after it left their lot, they'd be bankrupt pretty quickly.

The 62TE gets a drain and fill with filter change at 60,000 miles under fleet duty (taxi, police, rental, etc.) or with towing. Normal duty (no towing, average Joe daily driving) has a 120,000 mile drain and fill with filter change. The ONLY fluid that should ever go in that transmission is ATF+4.

They need to make money too. If they just accepted on blind faith any statement of damage after it left their lot, they'd be bankrupt pretty quickly.

As you should. I'd also walk around the entire vehicle and inspect for any changes to it since you last saw it. You get one chance to notice mistreatment of your vehicle from the shop.

As you should. I'd also walk around the entire vehicle and inspect for any changes to it since you last saw it. You get one chance to notice mistreatment of your vehicle from the shop.

Champion is OEM for my '10 T&C 3.8L, so I don't see why it wouldn't be aoEM for the 3.6L.

Are the new tires the same size as the old tires? I've always replaced tires with all season touring (which is what typically comes on any vehicle I've ever bought) and use the tire placard information on the driver door to set the inflation. Any information on the sidewall of the tire is a max cold inflation pressure, which is typically not the recommended running pressure. If it's the same size and aspect as the OEM tire, just fill it to what the placard reads and keep an eye out for uneven wear.
If it's a different wheel with different tire pressure, then you'd need a few things adjusted - speedometer for one (possibly), and a new threshold for when the TPMS would indicate low pressure. Perhaps a dealership can adjust these? They're all electronic anyway.

I've got a 4s running 8.4 that I can check later today. What functions are you having issues with?

As with most IT security related threats, it happened because of one of the following:
Insufficient time in testing
Insufficiently experienced programmers
Lack of imagination by the programmers for methods to attack the vehicle
My assumption is it's a combination of options 1 and 3 in this case. They likely assumed they had most things buttoned up pretty well, accounting for security within the vehicle. The entire concept of attacking a vehicle from a remote location is new. Now that it's happened, more auto makers will pay closer attention to it. FCA just happened to be the company that got hit first. Rest assured - everyone else is currently tearing their wireless systems apart looking for the same attack vectors that were just shown to be exploitable through some FCA vehicles.
Please also note - this article was not released until AFTER FCA had released a patch. Security work, by necessity, is quiet. You don't go running around shouting "I've got a locked door!!!" You simply lock the door and move on. In the case of a software update, you need only advertise it to the people affected. In the case of security research, you notify the affected vendor first, wait for their response, and (if you're not a d-bag), give them time to fix it before you publish.

It shouldn't have any added costs. This is a software bug - a flaw left over from programmers who either didn't notice it, didn't think about it, didn't have enough time to test it completely, or lacked the imagination to attempt hacking into a car through a cellular network and attempt to take over the major vehicle systems through an open port accessible to the radio. Software code maintenance should be expected whenever you release an operating system (and let's be realistic here - UConnect is an operating system). If for no other reason than to allow continued compatibility with new phone software, UConnect should be getting periodic updates.
The hackers in question did not do this with malicious intent. This is not their first hacked car, and it won't be their last. I'd rather the flaws be identified and the manufacturer notified quietly so they have time to develop a patch to fix the flaw than to find out it's possible as the result of a deadly wreck.
The lesson learned by vehicle owners is that we are driving mobile computers. You patch them when updated software comes out - the manufacturer doesn't do things just because they feel like it. This is only slightly different than Microsoft or Apple releasing a patch regarding known flaws in their own software that would allow for the theft of personal data (name, Social Security numbers, date of birth, etc.) - and only different in the potential for immediate effect.
The lesson that should be learned by EVERY vehicle manufacturer is to pay external consultants to attempt break into your stuff. If they can, they need to provide full documentation as to how they did it, and they get put under a non-disclosure agreement until the patch has been out for at least a few weeks (to allow time for current owners to update their own vehicles).

Chrysler cut quite a few corners across all vehicles up through the 2010 model year. Vehicles manufactured after 2011 (or had mid-generation refresh in 2011 or later) have been of MUCH higher quality. Compare the inside of a 2009/2010 Journey with a 2015. Compare the engine offerings for the Grand Caravan/Town and Country from 2008-2010 with 2011 and later.
Fiat, and the lead up to the takeover, has been VERY good for Chrysler. It should have happened without the cash of the US federal government, but that's a discussion for another day.

My 4s on 8.4 was able to connect to a 4.3S radio no problem. All expected functions work correctly via bluetooth (calling, audio controlled via iPhone). If you are having issues getting the radio to update properly, my next stop would be the dealer. It's a 2013, so you should still be under warranty.

More than likely, that won't do anything. Those turn signal warnings are typically for when the vehicle has travelled at some combination of distance, time, and speed. Sitting in the driveway is no different than waiting at an extraordinarily long red light.
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And there it is. Page 231 of the '15 Owner's Manual (I know, strange place to find this information, isn't it?)
A “Turn Signal On” message will appear in the Electronic
Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) and a continuous
chime will sound if the vehicle is driven more
than 1 mile (1.6 km) with either turn signal on.

Welcome to the fleet! Here's to hundreds of thousands of care-free mileage!

Welcome to the fleet! Here's to hundreds of thousands of care-free mileage!

Welcome to the fleet! Here's to hundreds of thousands of care-free mileage!

More than likely, that won't do anything. Those turn signal warnings are typically for when the vehicle has travelled at some combination of distance, time, and speed. Sitting in the driveway is no different than waiting at an extraordinarily long red light.
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.
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And there it is. Page 231 of the '15 Owner's Manual (I know, strange place to find this information, isn't it?)
A “Turn Signal On” message will appear in the Electronic
Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) and a continuous
chime will sound if the vehicle is driven more
than 1 mile (1.6 km) with either turn signal on.

I can't even remember the last time I forgot to cancel a turn signal. I know most cars in the last decade or so will have a warning chime if you leave the turn signal on for some distance (usually at least half a mile). There isn't much difference between a chime and an animation on an EVIC screen. For lane changes, I usually just tap the multi-function arm for the 3 flashes of the lights. Unless it's bad traffic. Then I have to actually fully depress the arm and wait 5 minutes to finally get someone who is willing to let me over.

More than likely, that won't do anything. Those turn signal warnings are typically for when the vehicle has travelled at some combination of distance, time, and speed. Sitting in the driveway is no different than waiting at an extraordinarily long red light.
.
.
.
.
.
And there it is. Page 231 of the '15 Owner's Manual (I know, strange place to find this information, isn't it?)
A “Turn Signal On” message will appear in the Electronic
Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) and a continuous
chime will sound if the vehicle is driven more
than 1 mile (1.6 km) with either turn signal on.

And when it does and the engine overheats and you have a $3,000 repair or have to replace the vehicle, you have no one to blame but yourself. Cars break. Get over it. It's a component that ANYONE can fix in their driveway with little more than a set of pliers.

I can't even remember the last time I forgot to cancel a turn signal. I know most cars in the last decade or so will have a warning chime if you leave the turn signal on for some distance (usually at least half a mile). There isn't much difference between a chime and an animation on an EVIC screen. For lane changes, I usually just tap the multi-function arm for the 3 flashes of the lights. Unless it's bad traffic. Then I have to actually fully depress the arm and wait 5 minutes to finally get someone who is willing to let me over.

And when it does and the engine overheats and you have a $3,000 repair or have to replace the vehicle, you have no one to blame but yourself. Cars break. Get over it. It's a component that ANYONE can fix in their driveway with little more than a set of pliers.

And when it does and the engine overheats and you have a $3,000 repair or have to replace the vehicle, you have no one to blame but yourself. Cars break. Get over it. It's a component that ANYONE can fix in their driveway with little more than a set of pliers.