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2010 SXT Bucking


Steve Bimbo

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I have a 2010 dodge Journey SXT that has a bucking issue. only under 50mph. At highway speed the the car rides just fine. I have used this car to travel often and it has 117900 miles on it. I love the car but I a can not figure out why this bucking is occurring. I feels like a fuel issue. almost like a clogged jet. I have 0 check engine lights. I had one for the egr valve which I had replaced and cleared the codes. Replaced the spark plugs and yet the issue still occurs. I was thinking a fuel filter but after contacting the dealer, they told me that their was no filter that I could replace. it was part of the fuel pump assembly. The car runs great while idling and when it is at highway speeds. the problem only occurs between 20-50mph. I am bringing it in to the dealer for a a fuel induction service. what else should I be concerned about? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

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So the dealer said I had the wrong plugs in the car so they did another tune up. Said they found a misfire. I asked them how they knew there was a misfire when there was no codes. After another tune up they tell me they need to reset the computer. They basically told me that they fixed the misfire but the car is still " showing symptoms". I at a loss. There computers can't tell them what's wrong and they are know rolling down the proverbial troubleshooting tree. On my dime. I'm letting the do a computer reset and then I picking up the car fixed or not. At the tune of $650

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I do not know why mechanics can not do their job. Dirty Throttle Body? Run some good (STP, Chevron) fuel line/injector cleaner because you now know it is not the plugs. This may take a few tank fulls, depending how dirty your fuel system is. Wrong plugs can allow carbon to build up. You stated that this goes away after about 50 mph. I still think that the transmission is locking up too soon. I would have them check this setting, also. How bad does it get when you are running the AC (draining power from the engine)?

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I do not know why mechanics can not do their job. Dirty Throttle Body? Run some good (STP, Chevron) fuel line/injector cleaner because you now know it is not the plugs. This may take a few tank fulls, depending how dirty your fuel system is. Wrong plugs can allow carbon to build up. You stated that this goes away after about 50 mph. I still think that the transmission is locking up too soon. I would have them check this setting, also. How bad does it get when you are running the AC (draining power from the engine)?

I have my doubts too on the wrong plug theory....especially in his 1st post he says that the plugs were changed and the problem still persists. I'm thinking another dealership or reputable mechanic would be best to try next.

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I replaced the plugs myself and getting the car back from the dealer and cross referencing they were correct. I replaced the plugs not the dealer. I do most of my own work just for this reason. I used autolite plugs not champion and I believe that was the only reason why they told me they were wrong. They also told me that I had a misfire and that's why I had to change them when I i had no codes or indication of a misfire. They said it was a slight (under 25%). Then they told me they had to reboot the computer. After all that charging me fn $700 for tune up I just did a week prior they tell me it internal transmission. They recommend replacing with a remanufactured for over $2k. I got screwed and ripped off. I never take my car to anyone because I don't trust anyone and this just proves it. I know have it at Aamco to get a recommendation on the tranny. If any one is in the Clifton Park, NY area Zappone Dodge is a rip off and they steal your money.

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I would start by changing the transmission fluid. Do a flush to get the old fluid out of the torque converter. If you just drain, there is still old fluid left inside. Then hook it up to a laptop (StarScan) and see what the lock up speed is set to. 35 - 40 would be reasonable, but just changing the fluid may solve the issue. A flush will clean out all the ports, etc. but it sounds like you already know this stuff. Good luck.

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I would start by changing the transmission fluid. Do a flush to get the old fluid out of the torque converter. If you just drain, there is still old fluid left inside. Then hook it up to a laptop (StarScan) and see what the lock up speed is set to. 35 - 40 would be reasonable, but just changing the fluid may solve the issue. A flush will clean out all the ports, etc. but it sounds like you already know this stuff. Good luck.

Actually I don't think that a full flush is a good idea with over 100,000 miles on it. The drain & fill is the safer method to do.....many auto manufacturers like Honda recommend only drain and fills and not a full flush as their is a greater chance of experiencing transmission issues after the flush. That is something I would definitely get a transmission shops opinion on instead of the dealerships service center.

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The owners manual of my 2006 Jeep Commander said no flushes on anything, but my Dealer overlooks this fact on every car they service. Remember, if the flush causes any issues, it is on their dime. The flush will definitely open everything up, but could cause issues with o-rings or gaskets. A good friend of mine works on transmissions; this is all the work that he does. And, he will drain the torque converter even if it requires the removal of the transmission.

If you know someone with a lift, get it up in the air and loosen the drain bolt. This will give you an overall condition of the fluid. If it flows, you can probably get by with just draining it. But if it is like tar, well you get the picture.

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The owners manual of my 2006 Jeep Commander said no flushes on anything, but my Dealer overlooks this fact on every car they service. Remember, if the flush causes any issues, it is on their dime. The flush will definitely open everything up, but could cause issues with o-rings or gaskets. A good friend of mine works on transmissions; this is all the work that he does. And, he will drain the torque converter even if it requires the removal of the transmission.

If you know someone with a lift, get it up in the air and loosen the drain bolt. This will give you an overall condition of the fluid. If it flows, you can probably get by with just draining it. But if it is like tar, well you get the picture.

Shame on your dealer as the owners manual is what they should be abiding by.

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They are 5 Star Dealer. I bought my Commander there, as well as all my cars. With the rates posted on the wall for a flush, I asked the Service Manager about this. I showed him where it was in the manual. His response was, "You can not believe everything that you read"!. Really?.................................

There are so many people who never read their manual. Now, we finally know why! LOL

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LOL....I am glad they are much more wiser than the engineers who designed the vehicle. When it comes to tranny fluid replacement I find dealerships no better than a quickie lube place. When I'm ready have mine done I hope there will be some good youtube vids on how to do a drain and fills on a sealed unit.

Edited by Journey_SeXT
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While I tend to agree about flushing a tranny with 100k plus miles between flushes, I don't agree that you shouldn't flush based simply on miles. If the tranny was serviced at the correct intervals then a flush as 300k miles should be fine. It is when you don't do it all and then do it the first time with high miles where it should be a concern. Also, not all "flushes" are under pressure. Many places "flush" the fluids by using the pump in the transmission... This creates no more pressure than if you were driving down the road shifting through the gears...

My 2 cents.

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It doesn't say flush on my 2011

Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter(s) if using your vehicle for any of the
following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing.
Whereas the coolant specifically states:
Flush and replace the engine coolant at 60 months or 104,000 miles (169 000 km)
whichever comes first.
I am going to say that they mean a drain and fill instead of a full flush as the term "Change" is used for the engine oil
Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.
Edited by Journey_SeXT
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When it is time, I'll let them hook it up to the flush machine. I've had my DJ since the end of June, with only 3,400 miles; I'll probably never have to do it. I'm curious to see what the replacement will be.

Edited by dhh3
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Well after getting charged $700 for a tune up I just did on the car prior to bringing it there. They told me it was the transmission needed to be replaced. I brought it to aamco and they said the tranny needed to be replaced the bands were going. I just can't believe a 5 yr old tranny needs to be replaced. But I still can't believe I got RIPPED off to find that out. Fn scumbags. Never will I bring any car to a dealer again.

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Never assume anything. How long did they have your car? Did the tell you exactly what they did to inform you that you needed a new transmission? Any other Transmission shops in your area? I'd get a second opinion. The reason I do not trust AAMCO is that they will usually tell a customer that they need a new transmission, when i fact, they do not. I have seen this over and over again. Being in the Military, I have traveled the world. And it was the same in every State where I was stationed.

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