Locosiete Posted July 21, 2025 Report Share Posted July 21, 2025 So to clarify you replaced the master cylinder but not the brake booster? Or both? My first thought was a bad brake booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luzmina Posted November 4, 2025 Report Share Posted November 4, 2025 (edited) I give up on my 2.4 2013, I adjusted the booster pin to master cylinder, so I have less play in the brake pedal, because the 2.4 2018 is doing it too I considered this a design issue, I would like to know if anyone with a 2.4 Journey with the engine running and steady pressure to the brake pedal, if the brake pedal does not sink to the floor. Edited November 4, 2025 by luzmina Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted November 4, 2025 Report Share Posted November 4, 2025 YES, I now also have a 2013 2,4 motor DJ with 183k miles and I have just replaced the rotors and pads(yes turned and pressed the rear pistons back) and the brakes are FRIM AND STEADY on the pedal. NO PROBLEM HERE. Locosiete and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted November 6, 2025 Report Share Posted November 6, 2025 Daughter in laws 2012 with 2.4 that I have worked on for 6 yrs and have done brake work on has never had this issue. Just swapped a rear caliper last week that was dragging, prefill first, gravity bleed, then pedal pressure through short clear hose piece. Never any pedal issues on this vehicle. Wife's 3.6 on the other hand had this issue @100k miles. Both rear calipers were partly seizing after parking brake use, right after an early rotor/pad change. Previous owner used anti seize on all brake rubber, starting brake issues. Could free up for a month, but pedal sinking etc. Finally two reman calipers fixed pedal issue, although one caliper needed a stronger spring added for normal parking brake function. New calipers are better than reman ! Not always easy to notice a partly messed up caliper. They can trap air, and high temp makes sticking worse. Older starting to seize rear calipers are really tough to retract with spinning. New ones can almost retract with bare hand no tool. Cleaning off all dirt and adding very thin film of sylglide on extended caliper pistons before retracting extends caliper life imo. But no body has the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted November 6, 2025 Report Share Posted November 6, 2025 I realize that it's only been 2 days since member @luzmina posted his "query", but I wonder if he was looking for opposite replies from what he posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luzmina Posted November 7, 2025 Report Share Posted November 7, 2025 I read the replies but I was expecting to see more inputs, the thing that the 2018 2.4 we purchase in 2019 was doing the same, it makes me to think that this is a designing issue, however both Journeys brake fine, when driving to any speed the SUV stop with the pedal in the middle, but if the engine is running you can press the pedal all the way to the floor, with engine no running the pedal does not travel to the floor, even if you press hard. Thanks to all that replies to my question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted November 7, 2025 Report Share Posted November 7, 2025 58 minutes ago, luzmina said: I read the replies but I was expecting to see more inputs, the thing that the 2018 2.4 we purchase in 2019 was doing the same, it makes me to think that this is a designing issue, however both Journeys brake fine, when driving to any speed the SUV stop with the pedal in the middle, but if the engine is running you can press the pedal all the way to the floor, with engine no running the pedal does not travel to the floor, even if you press hard. Thanks to all that replies to my question. I must say that you seem to have a very ODD and perplexing situation there. On the '13, what trim level is your ride ( big brakes or the older small brakes) and what brand parts (for your calipers, M.C. ABS module) did you use? I've heard a lot about poor quality M.C.'s out there But at a loss for suggestions about your untouched '18 DJ. My brake pedal travel on all 3 of our DJ's is only an inch of travel before stopping power and stays firm unless overheating the brakes, THEN I notice "pedal drop" or more aptly known as brake fade. WHICH I DO MY BEST TO AVOID DOING. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luzmina Posted November 9, 2025 Report Share Posted November 9, 2025 After we got the 18 2.4 CrossRoad in 2019 I ran this test because our 13 2.4 AVP was doing it too: Start the engine then press the brake pedal steady with force ( I would said 80 lb of force), the pedal slowly travel to the floor. I can not duplicate this in other cars I owned. Both SUV have OEM parts, except the brake pads in the 2013. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted November 10, 2025 Report Share Posted November 10, 2025 There are five or six brands of aftermarket vacuum pumps for the V6s. Must be demand there. Even the 4 has one aftermarket version, and it's out of stock. Pic is V6. Also a few check valves and sensors on power brake set up. If you aren't topping up fluid then probably vacuum issue some where. Not an obd11 scan able code, bi directional can bus high end scanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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