Neto

Not at all sure I would LET them, even if they offered. It would be easy to destroy the inner fender well getting access. (I changed the battery on my 2009 Journey a few years ago - It appeared to still be the original battery, so it had lasted for around 7 years.)

Thanks. That's a 'trick' I hadn't heard before. (Sort of reminds me of what some guys do to get the rear drums loose on the old MoPars - loosen the axle nut and drive around a bit, taking some abrupt turns. The hubs are a taper fit, and it's like they are pressed on. The normal way to get them off is with a hub puller. But after decades, they can be extremely stuck.) Here in Ohio I sometimes have to kick the living daylights out of the tires just to break the allow wheels loose from the hubs on my Dodge Caravan. It's apparently something to do with a reaction between the steel & the aluminum (with the salt as a catalyst). Fortunately our Journey has steel wheels.

Started hearing bearing noise on our Journey (@ +/- 90,000 miles) - sounded to me like the right side front. It seemed to be getting louder, so because our son was (and still is) in treatment for leukemia, I took it to an area shop. They asked me which side it was. I said it seemed to be the right, but that it's difficult to pinpoint the source on a uni-body vehicle. (I had raised the front, and ran it, but with the weight off, I couldn't hear it at all.) They decided it was the driver's side, and replaced that one. No change in the noise level. So how long will a bearing go, as it's going bad? Will it get louder, or will the type of noise change? I was going to try to do it myself, but I've never worked on a front wheel drive front end (I'm and old guy who always drove RWD vehicles.), and we also live in the "salt belt", so there's the likely rust problem as well.

We bought our 2009 (I think 1st owner sale was in July 2008) in Dec 2010, so it's been almost 10 years our family car. Had some repairs from time to time, but it's been a great car over-all. I think we've put nearly 75,000 miles on it in that time. I drive a Dodge Caravan (2010) for my work car, and the Journey handles better on curves, etc. We also live in the "rust belt" (Ohio), and it still shows no rust anywhere.

A onde mora no Brasil? (Sou Americano, mais moravamos no Brasil de 1.985 ate 2.003, o maioria do tempo em Porto Velho, RO., e na area do Medio Purus, na Amazonas.)

The vehicle on which I had the issue with the leaves clogging the wipe stow drain was a 2000 Chrysler T & C. Never had this issue with the 2009 Journey, but it is also garage kept, where as the 2000 was my work car, and sat outside. I could look under the hood on my 2009 Journey, but the design could be significantly different from you much newer one. But if I suspected this was the issue, it is generally not the newer leaves up top that are actually clogging the drain, it is the rotted ones that are almost dirt already, and that can be cleared by pulling the drain hose off where it comes out of the cowl. Usually the water would come gushing out when I did that, but often had to poke a wire down the hose as well. Then I would flush the system with a bucket of water, to be sure it was clear. This design of hiding the wipers is a bad one in my opinion, both for leaves (pine needles are the worst - that is what I was dealing with, actually) and also for snow & ice accumulation. If my vehicle sits outside in the winter, I *always* pull the wipers up, so that they do not freeze down onto the windshield, and to make it easier to clear that area w/o damaging the wiper rubber.

We have a 2009 Journey, and haven't had this problem with it, but it sounds a bit like an issue we had with a previous Chrysler Town & Country we had some years ago. The drains that service the wipe stow area passed through a cavity inside the firewall area, and emptied via rubber hoses on both sides. As I recall, the diameter of these hoses was maybe around 1/2", and leaves which got into the wiper stow area clogged this drain. Water accumulated inside that cavity, and then when you went around a corner, water would gush into the passenger floor pan. When there was less water, we would hear it sloshing around in there, but it took some time before I realized the problem.

I didn't re-read all of the old comments, so maybe someone already said this, but on at least some cars, if the dongle is too close to the vehicle, it will keep it awake, ready to start. They say that over time, this will run the battery down. (I don't have that type on mine, just an old-fashioned key - my preference, too because I had to pull the battery out on the dongle for my 2010 Dodge Caravan, because sometimes I would came back to it only to find the front windows all the way down. Apparently the button got pushed in my pocket, or something. After it happened in a snow storm, I'd had enough of that.)

My first thought is how much of a pain it would be to clear the ice & snow out of there after parking outside in the winter with that thing in place. Reminds me of the "air directors" that used to be mounted on the rear pillars of station wagons, to force the stream of air across the rear glass to reduce the accumulation of dust & road spray that so quickly covers the whole rear end of vehicles like these. I don't know if I'd say they "look cool", but sure would help.

1946 Plymouth Special DeLuxe. But... It's still in pieces after I started a rebuild back in 1980. (Bought it as a "basket case".)

Take out the extra seats, carpet & padding, any extra weight. Then go on a diet. (Just joking. But we have the 4 banger, so be glad for what power your V6 has.)

He's in Utah. (Post # 1). I would have bought them myself if I could have found a way to get them across the country w/o spending an arm and a leg on shipping.

Sorry it didn't work out. (I guess I could watch for a 2014 model when I'm up around the hardware, and see if the owner would allow a person to check out the antenna in the store..... When we first got our 2009 Journey (It was actually built mid 2008, we bought it used in December 2010), it was the only one we ever saw around here. Now we even see one the same color. But I couldn't tell one year from another just looking at the outside. That's the thing about old cars - no one who knows a 46-48 Plymouth (like mine) at all, would never mistake it for a 'real' 49. (There are 2 models for 49, the "first series", which is the same as the 46 - 48, manufactured until early 1949, and the new 49.) Or a 61 Chrysler (think fins) for a 62 (finless). But back to the topic - I don't know, would a Dodge Nitro have the same antenna? Hey, maybe a friendly dealership (or used auto lot) would allow you to check the stud size & thread count.

I'm happy to help. I'm sort of working in the opposite direction myself. I don't know if anyone here remembers this, but older cars had an antenna that could be collapsed, you might say. The thinner part slid down inside the main antenna mast, so that it was about 1/2 the full height. Well, the antenna on my 46 Plymouth split open like the petals on a flower at the top of the part where the thinner part fits into. I kept the antenna from a 93 Chrysler Town & Country I cut up for scrap, and got to looking at it, and I think I can make it work on the Plymouth, but fitting a bolt down into the stub of the original antenna mast, where I cut it off. So I took the antenna to the hardware store, and tried all of the metric bolts. None fit. It turned out to be standard 1/4-20, so I don't even have to desecrate the Plymouth by putting something metric on it. (Most fasteners on the 93 are metric, but the antenna somehow escaped.)

Older vehicles (like my 49 Plymouth) have splash shields all around the engine, but those were times when most (or at least many) of the roads were dirt or mud.

Mine is a 2009, so not sure if it will be the same. There is a Do-It-Best hardware a quarter mile from my place, and since it's raining today, it's not hot. So I walked up. Metric thread. M5 x 0.8 on the 2009 Journey.

The way I checked for the caliper issue I mentioned was to jack up the wheel, then have some one engage the brake while I rocked the wheel. You shouldn't be able to move it, but if it does, you'll likely hear the clunking sound.

This is an old thread, and the original poster never returned to say what the problem turned out to be, but I have had similar noises on a couple of different vehicles, although not on our Journey. Sometimes the caliper slides become loose enough that the floating side can rotate just enough to bang back & forth against the stops when going over a bump, or through a pot hole. When the brake is just slightly engaged, then the floating part of the caliper is held against the stop, and there is no clunking noise. (The two vehicles I had that did this were a 98 Dodge Neon, and a 98 Chevy S-10.)

I have a 2009, and not sure it is the same, but a lot of hardware stores have a display that has all of the different thread sizes mounted on it, like studs for matching a tapped piece, and long nuts for matching a threaded piece. I would assume that it is metric, and so I'd take the antenna into the store, and see if there is one that matches. If not, it may be some sort of proprietary thread, but I doubt they'd go to that extra expense.

I need replacement washer nozzles. China has cheep ones, but reviews say they have a poor spray pattern, like either a single stream, or it just spits a bit. OEM costs way more. (Like 5 x) I see the Dorman brand offered by USA parts stores - any input in regards to their quality, in comparison to MoPar OEM?

The deal about it being built in Mexico was just an aside, not intending to make any point at all. It's just a personal quirk, I guess. One might say that there is a general principle taught in the Old Testament, that no matter where you live, you should seek the prosperity of the country where you live. So when in the USA, I try to buy American. I did not intend it as a criticism. (I am a systems builder, and almost none of the parts I use are manufactured here in the USA. But that seems unavoidable. I know that it is a world economy now-a-days. I just got off topic on my own thread, on the first post.....)

I don't think I've seen one here, but many forums have a thread where folks sort of brag about how many miles they have on their vehicles. This is the opposite in our case. We purchased our 2009 Journey in December of 2010, and it's been one of the very best vehicles we've owned. Ours is the 4-banger, and sure, it's a bit wimpy on the hills, and you don't get into races with this thing. Anyway, we bought it low miles, and it just passed 80,000 miles. (We don't travel a lot to start with, and we've taken my work vehicle, a 2010 Dodge Caravan on several longer trips since we bought it a few years back.) My only disappointment was when I was signing the papers, realizing that it was not built in the USA, but in Mexico. Nothing against Mexico, I just like to drive vehicles built in the country where I'm living. So when we lived in Brazil, we drove a Brazil-built vehicle.

I would be interested to hear how an ionizer performs for this task. I have wondered in the past, and tried to get my father-in-law to go that route to defume an apartment the family manages for him. (We ended up pulling all of the carpets and flooring, and painting the subfloor with an oil-based paint. The carpet had to be replaced anyway, as did the flooring. The smell was still there to some degree, under the paint smell.) A friend who has a bed-n-breakfast has one, and tells me that they work well. I've heard of others say (real) charcoal left in a vehicle will help. I bought a used PU some years ago that reaked of cigarette smoke, and since the seat was broken down anyway, I pulled it out & replaced it with one from the salvage. While I had it out I used a commercial carpet cleaner my wife had rented anyway to do the carpets in our home, and shampooed the carpets, headliner, and door panels. It did a pretty good job of it, but interestingly, the time when I could still smell it the most was on a real cold morning - more than when it sat outside in the summer. (I would have thought that the heat would bring it out more than the cold.)

It sounds like a good deal as you've priced it, but I guess I'm just too far away. I've heard of people shipping via Greyhound, but that was 35 years ago. Hope you can find a buyer closer to you. Thanks for trying, though.

I tried to enlarge the photo of the invoice, to see what the total weight was (234?). Wondering what it might run to ship to Ohio, zip code 44610.