Locosiete

Need to redo some paint but I think it matches ok
 

Addressing clunking noises after replacing multiple front-end components in your 2010 Dodge Journey SXT can be a perplexing situation, especially when you've diligently checked for tightness in all newly installed parts. Despite your thorough triple-check, a few potential issues might be causing the persistent clunking.
Firstly, verify that all components were installed correctly. While tightness is crucial, the correct orientation and alignment of parts such as control arms, struts, tie rods, sway bar links, and ball joints are equally essential. Misalignment or improper assembly could result in unusual sounds.
Secondly, consider inspecting the mounting points and connections for the front struts. If the mounting bolts or nuts are not torqued to specifications, it can lead to clunking noises. Ensure that the strut mounts and bearings are in good condition and properly seated.
Additionally, inspect the condition of the sway bar bushings and end links. If these components are worn or improperly installed, they can generate clunking sounds during driving.
It's also worth examining the subframe and chassis for any signs of damage or issues. A damaged subframe or compromised chassis integrity can contribute to unexpected noises.
If the issue persists despite your efforts, seeking the expertise of a professional mechanic or performing a detailed inspection by a qualified technician may be necessary. They can conduct a thorough examination, potentially utilizing diagnostic tools to pinpoint the exact source of the clunking noise and recommend the appropriate corrective measures.

Bet you never thought somebody would EXAMINE your pictures so closely to notice such .....AND to make joking comment of a little "detail" in it!
Have a very MERRY CHRISTMAS and I hope you keep your nice warm weather!
COLD NIGHTS here and Day temps of 30 - 40*, but Christmas day calling for a heat wave of 52* here.....and I'll gladly have it!

Sandals with exposed toes verses SNOW BOOTS like up here for me???? Yes the bezel looks very nice, and then to put the rest of the dash back together!

Well have dash mostly done. Waiting on new voltage meter. Otherwise not too bad
 

Sorry to say this , but you are now out of my league in understanding on how it would all "wire up" and work. 
I actually like the radio reception and clarity of the 2 4.3 screen radios over the '13 RT's big screen and supposed amplified premium radio. To me, if it works......don't mess with it!

As I look at your message I was thinking... why not upgrade the screen. So made me think. I could go with aftermarket android stereo for all the apps it offers but leave the stereo components on the stereo below. Hmmm....
Then I can use the output from that into stereo.... man your making me want to step up my game lol
 

Cool work going on. Glass matt  on the air tank is a nice touch. I still think a ludicrously loud air horn is needed to match the sound system. Not many people have the compressed air to run one properly  Might score some points at a competition.  Cheers.

A 4.3" bezel? Without looking up your media pic's you are still using factory screen?
Our '11 and '14 have the 4.3 screens and find the cubby hole underneath rather unnecessary, nice idea of your further updating!

So far this I think this is coming along well 
 

YES
 He's a train engineer for a short line freight RR that has 2 hubs. His "home base" is in Olean,NY and is covering for vacation time Engineer in Meadville, Pa.
 Meadville is a smaller operation. He says he likes the work hours better{day shift}/shorter there than the usual 12 hours thru late afternoon into the wee early morning hours of his "home base".Of course the pay is is better at his home base due to hours worked.

It’s the 3.6, new thermostat last year and bled the system with the bleeder screw, checked it this morning after getting up to temp to open the thermostat. No more bubbles coming out. Fingers crossed 

yes it could be possible after all it's a 12 yr old car,,, do a complete flush of the system then add new coolant  and I would change out the thermostat as well,,which eng do you have? 3.6 is real easy and make sure you bleed the air out of the system as well. good luck

The answer is 'no'.  Very different devices/

OH MY GOODNESS! Thanks so much as to those pic's. YES the '14 has that AND it works! I never noticed that before and will definitely "check it out" on the other 2 ...when they come home to the "nest". My son has his '11 down in Pennsylvania as a temporary engineer for the railroad company he works for until 12/22. The '13 will be home later this afternoon.
 
 One thing I did find is that the FOB needs to be with you, just like for the front doors. Hatch handle is working like brand new with the "lube job" from yesterday!

You might get lucky if it was just the stuck  position affecting solenoid. Hatches are awkward to take apart I find.
 
The little black square camouflaged lock button is on the left side of hatch overhang Close to license plate lights. I think I found it a year after owning car. Pretty sure on all journeys have it. It’s like pressing chrome buttton on front doors, should unlock or lock car if fob is in pocket  I believe. 
 

 
 
 
 
 

2014 FWD 3.6 SXT 164,000 miles
 
 
I thought so too.  When ordering, some of the 'Mopar' parts sites listed it as not in stock, others did not.  I ordered from a Mopar seller I had used before.  They did not indicate it was not in stock, but when I called them when the order had not shipped in a timely manner is when they indicated it was on order and due "soon". 
 
 
LOL.  I guess I earned another badge!
 
After driving a bit yesterday and today, I slide under to check, and all 4 connections were dry (and I am able to steer the car in the direction I desire)!  
I'm assuming I won't have another good opportunity for months to check again.  Hopefully I wont see spots in the snow.
 
 

 

Nice pics and write up.  So clean underneath, definitely not a rust belt car.  The entire Harbour Freight  set probably cost less the a single snap on crow foot. Tool pays for itself on one job.
If you haven’t made your own tool to fix a car….your not a real back yard mechanic. Cheers.

The power steering hose gods are sending me a gift (or setting me up for a cruel joke).  After about a month wait, the hoses arrived yesterday in the AM, AND the weather yesterday and today is unseasonably warm, in the 50f's, AND I had previously, randomly, scheduled the day off to use up unused vacation days.  I took the opportunity to replace the hoses.
 
*** TAKE NOTE ***  If you are planning to do this repair and you are a driveway mechanic (with just basic+ tool inventory), you will need a 18mm crowfoot flare tool.  Prior, to prep for this repair, I had purchased a metric crowfoot flare set at HF.  I now know it does NOT include 18mm.  I had not researched the size I would need, I figured I'd be good with a 'set'.  In hindsight you may be able to get by with a 18mm crowfoot flare wrench (but I dont own those either).
 
UGH! As I found out when I went to remove the old hoses , I didn't have the correct 18mm crowfoot flare tool, I used a dremel tool and file to grind out the 17mm in the HF set to 18mm.
 
Replacement is straight forward.  The same 2 bolts hold them both to the frame with a hose connection at each end.  The rub is the high pressure connection at the power steering pump.  While on your back in the driveway, its at a full arms length in, and once your arm is in, you cant see it.  After the usual set of 4 letter words, grunts, groans, and dropped tools, that connection was completed.  I hope its tight enough.  I'm no longer in my 20's.  My arm strength is no longer what it used to be.  Initial test drive was successful.  I'll check Saturday afternoon for leaks.
 
I refilled the P/S system with Valvoline power steering fluid and did not bleed it.
 
I'll provide an update.
 
 
 
 
High Pressure P/S Hose

 
Low Pressure P/S Hose

 
 
The 'easy' hose connections. 
Low pressure (silver) in on top.
High pressure (black) below it.

 
 
High Pressure P/S connection on the power steering pump (black).  This is the beast to reach.

 
 
Another view of the same, from the ground looking up.

 
 

Well, the '14 is back home and I drove it 60 miles with NO NOISES from the trans. and running quite nicely. $14 for doughnuts and settled at $550 for flex plate and fluids with a bit of labor. Going to Christmas gift him before the holiday of an additional $100.
Part for son's home furnace won't be here till a Tues. install time, and already have quote for part and labor that he says he can well handle. Probably going to have 3 overnight "guests" with us tonight and Sunday night, son, his fiance and her cat. It will be interesting to see how our old cat will take to another cat being in "her turf"! We have a veritable heat wave for the season coming Friday and Sat.

Not to ever critique someone but 3 is such a odd #. You really should get a 4th. A much more even and fun # ? ? ? ? ?  
 

Camber link arms were replaced on the '14 and '11 with moog non adjustable units, and NOT hard to do. I had also bought thru rock auto 2 sets of adjustable units due to a very good price but have not used them yet. The '14's main problem turned out to be the toe link arms, which I replaced and installed greaseable eccentric bolts. That was NOT easily done due to WNY RUST. I set rear toe by alternate {non alignment machine}method, and have a total toe of 0" as it should be. I spent a lot of my auto tech career doing suspension/alignment work, so am pretty confident all will be good on the '14.
In my opinion the toe links should have been designed like the adjustable camber links.

Thanks !
  Health is pretty much back, but still need to see my Dr. about some lingering "issues".
Just heard from my friend that yes indeed it was a defective torque converter, and all is good now. BUT he wants me to come over and bring doughnuts and sit down and discuss the bill with him. Out of one frying pan and into another as also today a major part in my son's house furnace went bad, NO HEAT and overnight temps in the 20's with daytime temps around 32*. Luckily forced air and not hot water baseboard. He has only been in the house he just bought for 3 months.... Dad to the "rescue"????

I'll keep my fingers and eyes crossed for you that the car gods bless you with nothing too crazy to fix.
 
As far as your health that is the most important thing to fix. Besides who else am I gonna chat with on this forum ? ? ? 

I now know why I missed your post....I was home recovering from a medical "scare" that sent me to the ER on Friday of Veterans day, and not on my computer for some time.
Yes, of course I'll buy the crank sensor. I sure don't want a repeat of the hassle the '13 gave me in figuring out that problem. As my "overanalyzing brain does, I am HOPING that it is NOT the front pump of the trans and just the torque converter. He had unbolted the flex plate and converter, moved back the converter from the plate and run the engine....NO NOISE. And when he had replaced the flex plate there was no sign of trans fluid leaking in the bell housing from the trans front seal to give clue of "deeper in" trans trouble like the pump. 
But yeah, I'm going to wait on a replacement tire sensor till after the shock of the holidays and cost of whatever my bill will be for this '14!