FROGBOX

The pictures were hosted by fototime and they had a catastrophic event a few months ago. All photos were lost and they basically ceased operating. 
 
I lost over 1000 pictures. I had hundreds of how to posts like this one as a member of tdiclub. It will be a monumental task to try to find all the pictures in my backed up drives, but I will see what I can do.
 
 

Well, I said I would do it, so I did. I was going to source all the parts new, but I was able to find a wrecked 2013 Journey and bought the calipers, brackets, rotors & pads for $150 total. That saved me about $350 from buying new and made it much less of a risk if it didn't work.
First, the disclaimer......
PLEASE do not attempt this upgrade unless you know what you are doing. Use common sense when jacking & supporting a vehicle, they are heavy and can move. Always use jack stands. And most of all, be careful.
First, here are some comparison pictures to show the huge difference between the brakes.


As you can see, the calipers are much bigger. And, they are dual piston calipers too, meaning you get more pressure on the pads for better braking. The rotors are also much larger. The old ones are 302mm and the new ones are over an inch bigger at 330mm:

I did want to replace the pads & rotors, but since these brakes are so new being available only on 2013 & late 2012 cars, the aftermarket availability is limited for replacement pads & rotors. So if you can wait to do this upgrade till aftermarket parts are available, you can save a few bucks. I will be throwing on a set of new ceramic pads & rotors next year. I hate the brake dust created by the OEM pads.

Now, on to the procedure....
The first step is to jack up the truck and remove the wheels. If you need instructions for this part, perhaps you should consider getting someone else to help you or pay to have this done .
Once the wheels are off, remove the calipers. You can remove them as complete unit with the brackets, but I chose to do it seperately as there is more clearance for the bracket bolts with the caliper out of the way. The first thing I did was to remove the brake lines. I used a small pair of needle nose vice grips to clamp the hose so you don't loose too much fluid. Put a bucket under the caliper to catch the fluid that leaks out. You need a 15mm wrench to remove the banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper.
Once you have the line off, you need a 15mm and a 13mm wrench to remove the caliper from the slider pins.

With the 2 x 13mm bolts removed, the caliper should wiggle off. Now, you can easily access the 2 x 21mm bolts holding on the bracket:

I needed a breaker bar to get enough leverage to brake those bolts loose. If you don't have one in your tool box, they are not expensive at Princess Auto (Canada) or Harbor Freight (US). You could also use a pipe on your ratchet handle too.

Once it is broken loose, finish with ratchet:

Next step is to remove the rotor. I had to pound mine off with a rubber mallet. It had rusted to the hub. These brakes were changed 1 year ago and 16,000 km (10,000 miles) by the dealer. I was surprised at how stuck they were. To prevent this from happening again, clean & lube the hub before reinstalling the rotors.
I used a wire wheel on the end of a drill to clean up the rust on the hub:

I then applied some anti sieze to the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting to the hub again. You will be glad you did this when you go to change your brakes again. Coat the entire mating surface:

The next step is to reinstall the new components. Install the rotor first. I like to use a lug nut to hold it in place while I attach everything else so it doesn't wobble around. I use a wrench as a spacer as the stud is too lung and will bottom out in the nut before it gets tight.

Then, attach the bracket and caliper. It fits the original spindle with no issues at all. You can also change the backing plate as well. They are not expensive, but I didn't in this case as I was just test fitting the parts I had before spending money on new plates. I will replace my plates when I do my next brake job.
Here is the new caliper installed:

At this point, you will need to bleed the brakes. I don't want to go into too many details on that. I'm sure there are enough tutorials on the web & you tube that you can figure out how that works. Basically, you need one person in the vehicle to pump the brakes to pressurize the line, then, while holding down the brake pedal, you crack the bleed screw to allow the air to escape. the pedal will sink to the floor, then close the bleed screw and repeat till there is no more air coming out of the caliper, only fluid.
The bleed screw is 11mm:

I use a piece of clear hose to help direct the fluid into a bucket to keep the work area clean. You can also see the fluid passing through it and can tell if there is any air coming out as well:

Once all the air is bled out, tighten the bleed screw. It does not have to be really tight. Just snug it up. if you make it too tight, it may snap. Cap the screw with the rubber boot, replace the wheel and repeat on the other side.

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Well, I said I would do it, so I did. I was going to source all the parts new, but I was able to find a wrecked 2013 Journey and bought the calipers, brackets, rotors & pads for $150 total. That saved me about $350 from buying new and made it much less of a risk if it didn't work.
First, the disclaimer......
PLEASE do not attempt this upgrade unless you know what you are doing. Use common sense when jacking & supporting a vehicle, they are heavy and can move. Always use jack stands. And most of all, be careful.
First, here are some comparison pictures to show the huge difference between the brakes.


As you can see, the calipers are much bigger. And, they are dual piston calipers too, meaning you get more pressure on the pads for better braking. The rotors are also much larger. The old ones are 302mm and the new ones are over an inch bigger at 330mm:

I did want to replace the pads & rotors, but since these brakes are so new being available only on 2013 & late 2012 cars, the aftermarket availability is limited for replacement pads & rotors. So if you can wait to do this upgrade till aftermarket parts are available, you can save a few bucks. I will be throwing on a set of new ceramic pads & rotors next year. I hate the brake dust created by the OEM pads.

I was looking for this information today and found this old thread.
I just thought I would update it with the correct information for anyone else who may also be looking for this info.
The bolt pattern is indeed 5 x 127mm (or 5 x 5")
The offset on my 19" wheels are +40. The extra 5mm is probably to clear the brakes.
The centre bore is 71.5mm.

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Now, on to the procedure....
The first step is to jack up the truck and remove the wheels. If you need instructions for this part, perhaps you should consider getting someone else to help you or pay to have this done .
Once the wheels are off, remove the calipers. You can remove them as complete unit with the brackets, but I chose to do it seperately as there is more clearance for the bracket bolts with the caliper out of the way. The first thing I did was to remove the brake lines. I used a small pair of needle nose vice grips to clamp the hose so you don't loose too much fluid. Put a bucket under the caliper to catch the fluid that leaks out. You need a 15mm wrench to remove the banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper.
Once you have the line off, you need a 15mm and a 13mm wrench to remove the caliper from the slider pins.

With the 2 x 13mm bolts removed, the caliper should wiggle off. Now, you can easily access the 2 x 21mm bolts holding on the bracket:

I needed a breaker bar to get enough leverage to brake those bolts loose. If you don't have one in your tool box, they are not expensive at Princess Auto (Canada) or Harbor Freight (US). You could also use a pipe on your ratchet handle too.

Once it is broken loose, finish with ratchet:

Next step is to remove the rotor. I had to pound mine off with a rubber mallet. It had rusted to the hub. These brakes were changed 1 year ago and 16,000 km (10,000 miles) by the dealer. I was surprised at how stuck they were. To prevent this from happening again, clean & lube the hub before reinstalling the rotors.
I used a wire wheel on the end of a drill to clean up the rust on the hub:

I then applied some anti sieze to the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting to the hub again. You will be glad you did this when you go to change your brakes again. Coat the entire mating surface:

The next step is to reinstall the new components. Install the rotor first. I like to use a lug nut to hold it in place while I attach everything else so it doesn't wobble around. I use a wrench as a spacer as the stud is too lung and will bottom out in the nut before it gets tight.

Then, attach the bracket and caliper. It fits the original spindle with no issues at all. You can also change the backing plate as well. They are not expensive, but I didn't in this case as I was just test fitting the parts I had before spending money on new plates. I will replace my plates when I do my next brake job.
Here is the new caliper installed:

At this point, you will need to bleed the brakes. I don't want to go into too many details on that. I'm sure there are enough tutorials on the web & you tube that you can figure out how that works. Basically, you need one person in the vehicle to pump the brakes to pressurize the line, then, while holding down the brake pedal, you crack the bleed screw to allow the air to escape. the pedal will sink to the floor, then close the bleed screw and repeat till there is no more air coming out of the caliper, only fluid.
The bleed screw is 11mm:

I use a piece of clear hose to help direct the fluid into a bucket to keep the work area clean. You can also see the fluid passing through it and can tell if there is any air coming out as well:

Once all the air is bled out, tighten the bleed screw. It does not have to be really tight. Just snug it up. if you make it too tight, it may snap. Cap the screw with the rubber boot, replace the wheel and repeat on the other side.

Well, I said I would do it, so I did. I was going to source all the parts new, but I was able to find a wrecked 2013 Journey and bought the calipers, brackets, rotors & pads for $150 total. That saved me about $350 from buying new and made it much less of a risk if it didn't work.
First, the disclaimer......
PLEASE do not attempt this upgrade unless you know what you are doing. Use common sense when jacking & supporting a vehicle, they are heavy and can move. Always use jack stands. And most of all, be careful.
First, here are some comparison pictures to show the huge difference between the brakes.


As you can see, the calipers are much bigger. And, they are dual piston calipers too, meaning you get more pressure on the pads for better braking. The rotors are also much larger. The old ones are 302mm and the new ones are over an inch bigger at 330mm:

I did want to replace the pads & rotors, but since these brakes are so new being available only on 2013 & late 2012 cars, the aftermarket availability is limited for replacement pads & rotors. So if you can wait to do this upgrade till aftermarket parts are available, you can save a few bucks. I will be throwing on a set of new ceramic pads & rotors next year. I hate the brake dust created by the OEM pads.

Ouch. You paid dealership prices for the parts? If you haven't installed the parts yet, and the dealership will take the calipers & brackets back, there are much cheaper options.
First option is used calipers & brackets. Go to www.car-part.com
Coreys Auto wrecker in London has a set of front calipers & brackets for $60 per side. So for $120 instead of $435, you are halfway there. Then go to www.rockauto.com to order the pads & rotors. The same ones you bought (Centric) are $70 each rotor & $40 for the pads. Shipping is quite expensive, but still cheaper than buying local. The dust sheilds & pin kit you might as well keep as they are not that expensive.
The second option is all new/rebuilt parts from Rock Auto.
Centric calipers are $127 each (which includes a $82 core charge) and they include the brackets. So $127 per side instead of $219 from the dealer.

I have issues with my brakes. Pulsating pedal (probably from warped rotors) and an endless problem with brake dust on the wheels. The pads are probably too soft and wearing down too fast, creating lots of dust. I wanted to change the pads myself to a good aftermarket set of low dust pads, but if Chrysler is going to do a brake job under warranty, I will wait till I am out of warranty to do the upgrade.
Can you scan & post the letter you got regarding the brakes for us please? I am the original owner of our Journey and have not gotten such a letter, so would be nice to have somthing official to show the service guy when I show up and ask for new brakes.
Thanks in advance.

The newer the better...
For the screen, p/n 5064993AI is the same for the 2011-2015 Journey.
For the radio, the part numers have changed each year, I would stay with the 2014 to best match your vehicle (68210554AE)
The suffix change on part numbers (such as AG to AH) typically signifies a minor change/update. A totally new part number is a more significant change.
2011 Radio 5091135AG superseded to AH
2012 Radio 5091038AF superseded to / AG / AH / AI / AJ
2013 Radio 5091367AE superseded to / AF
2014 Radio 68210554AE (also 68210554ZE or 68210554ZH)
2015 Radio 68240130AA
For reference:
MSRP on the 5064993AI screen is $1410 (U.S.) and $1900 (Canada)
For some reason pricing is not listed for the 68210554AE radio. Early model year radios have listed for around $1200 (U.S.) and $2000 (Canada).
Also, see this thread: http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/3482-installing-84-uconnect-actually-doing-it/

The 2009 & 2011 brakes are identical, so this should work for you as well.

Ouch. You paid dealership prices for the parts? If you haven't installed the parts yet, and the dealership will take the calipers & brackets back, there are much cheaper options.
First option is used calipers & brackets. Go to www.car-part.com
Coreys Auto wrecker in London has a set of front calipers & brackets for $60 per side. So for $120 instead of $435, you are halfway there. Then go to www.rockauto.com to order the pads & rotors. The same ones you bought (Centric) are $70 each rotor & $40 for the pads. Shipping is quite expensive, but still cheaper than buying local. The dust sheilds & pin kit you might as well keep as they are not that expensive.
The second option is all new/rebuilt parts from Rock Auto.
Centric calipers are $127 each (which includes a $82 core charge) and they include the brackets. So $127 per side instead of $219 from the dealer.

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Grand Cherokee SRT brakes would be way cool. 6 piston calipers on 15" rotors up front and 4 piston calipers on 13.8" rotors in the rear. Now that would stop you in a hurry.
BUT, I don't know if it would work off the shelf. The wheel bolt pattern is the same, so no need to change hubs. The rotors should fit. The spindles (knuckles) however, are very different between the 2 models.
Unlike our vehicles with floating calipers, the SRT calipers bolt right to the spindles (no brackets required). Since the calipers have multiple pistons on both sides, they do not need to float, so can certainly be bolted in place of where the slider bracket would go. The question is, do the the bolt holes line up? If not, It's certainly possible to have some custom brackets machined. I compared the part numbers for the brackets between our Journeys and the Grand Cherokees and they do not match. that doesn't mean the bolt holes are different though. Even if it does fit, it will NOT be cheap. The calipers are around $300 each. OEM rotors are around $200 each. Total parts cost to do the upgrade on the front alone (if it fits) is over $1100. If machined brackets are required, add another couple hundred.
Here is a breakdown of the part numbers for the front:
Left Caliper - 68146611AA - $291
Right Caliper - 68146610AA - $300
Rotors - 05181513AB - $204 x 2 - $408
Pads - 68144427AA - $105
Shims - 68144779AA - $32
The rears are ever so slightly cheaper by about $10 as the rotors are a bit smaller.
So around $2200 for a complete SRT Brembo brake upgrade. On the plus side, brake pad replacement would be super simple.
Here is a picture to drool over:

I did some searching. If anyone is serious about trying the Brembo brake upgrade, it can be done for half the price for all 4 corners with used calipers and aftermarket (powerstop) pads & rotors from the previous generation Grand Cherokee SRT-8.
The Powerstop kit is K2867 and sells for around $400 + shipping
A set of used calipers from a 2006 (fits 2006-2010) is around $650 on E-bay:
Canada: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360923345717
US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271471597911
I have no idea if it will work or not, just throwing out what i found.

Here are some before & after pictures:
Old caliper:

New caliper:

Old with wheel (wow, they look tiny inside a 19" wheel ):

New with wheel:

That's about it. Just a couple of things before I go.....
Be advised that with these bigger brakes, you will need a minimum of 17" wheels to clear. So some Journey owners with smaller wheels will have to budget for new wheels as well as the bigger brakes.
Parts list:
Part Part number Qty

Pads 68159579AC 1
Rotors 04779712AA 2
Caliper (L) 68144161AA 1
Caliper ® 68144160AA 1
Carrier (bracket) 68159578AA 2
Pin Kit (sliders) 68144165AA 2
Spring kit (pads) 68159523AB 1
Dust shield (L) 04779907AA 1
Dust shield ® 04779906AA 1
As mentioned before, to save some money, you may be able to find the pads & rotors aftermarket. The calipers, brackets, pins and backing plates are probably dealer only items, but can be found cheap on line at the following sites:
www.factorymoparparts.com
www.moparoverstock.com
Tools required:
11mm wrench for the bleeder screw
13mm wrench or socket to remove caliper
15mm wrench to hold slider pin
21mm socket to remove bracket bolts
vice grips or a clamp of some kind to crimp the brake hose.

Well, I said I would do it, so I did. I was going to source all the parts new, but I was able to find a wrecked 2013 Journey and bought the calipers, brackets, rotors & pads for $150 total. That saved me about $350 from buying new and made it much less of a risk if it didn't work.
First, the disclaimer......
PLEASE do not attempt this upgrade unless you know what you are doing. Use common sense when jacking & supporting a vehicle, they are heavy and can move. Always use jack stands. And most of all, be careful.
First, here are some comparison pictures to show the huge difference between the brakes.


As you can see, the calipers are much bigger. And, they are dual piston calipers too, meaning you get more pressure on the pads for better braking. The rotors are also much larger. The old ones are 302mm and the new ones are over an inch bigger at 330mm:

I did want to replace the pads & rotors, but since these brakes are so new being available only on 2013 & late 2012 cars, the aftermarket availability is limited for replacement pads & rotors. So if you can wait to do this upgrade till aftermarket parts are available, you can save a few bucks. I will be throwing on a set of new ceramic pads & rotors next year. I hate the brake dust created by the OEM pads.

My advice is to try to find some of the parts used from a wreckers. I have seen the calipers & brackets sell for between $35 - $75 per side. Then, all you need is a set of new rotors & pads and you're golden. If you have an address to have them shipped to in the States, get the parts from Rock Auto. Best prices anywhere on the net.
Heavy Duty front rotors - Raybestos part number 780964 - $60 each
Professional Grade front pads - Raybestos part number PGD1589C - $55
Total cost for the parts will be between $300-$350 depending on how cheap you can get the calipers.

Its not necessarily a poor design, it just needs maintenance. There are LOTS of cars with the exact same design. The stainless steel shims are corrosion resistant. However, the steel bracket is not. What happens is the steel under the shim traps water (especially salt water in the north) and causes the bracket to rust under the shim. The rust pushes up on the shim and acts like a wedge, putting pressure on the pad, so it is no longer able to float. Simple maintenance can prevent it from happening. Simply remove the caliper, remove the shims, clean the surface under the shim and apply a bit of grease to keep out the water & prevent the rust. Then reassemble. It takes 10 min per side and can be done when rotating the tires. I do mine when I swap between summer & winter wheels.

You are correct in that the fronts do most of the work. When a vehicle brakes, the weight transfers to the front so it has to brake more than the rears. This is done by a proportioning valve in the brake system. However, there are more factors to why he rears can wear out faster. The first is pad size. The rears are much smaller, so there is less material and that makes it easier to wear faster. Also, as mentioned above, the compound can be softer, also causing it to wear faster. Finally, the design of the carrier that holds the pads is different between the front & rear and I have seen it on many makes & models where the shims that hold the pads can cause the pads to get stuck so they don't float. This causes the pads to constantly drag against the rotor since the pads are not releasing fully and they can wear out faster due to that. It is not a lot of pressure, but over thousands of miles, just the slightest bit of drag will still wear a pad. That happened to my journey. I had to replace the rear brakes at 40,000 km (26,000 miles) as they were down to the metal backing. When I tried to take the pads off, I had to pry them off with a pry bar. They should just fall out. Proper lubrication of the brakes should prevent that from happening, so I do that every time I rotate my wheels.

When cars sit for any length of time, the rotors rust. They are bare metal and with no protection, rust very quicky. My rotors will be rusty after only a day or two in heavy rain. Since your Journey may have sat for a long time in the dealer lot, the area under the brake pad may be worse as water gets trapped and if the rust is bad enough, the rotor can get pitted in that spot. So each time that section of the rotor passes under the pad, the pad grabs it a bit more since it is not as smooth. This constant grabbing in one spot can feel like a severe shudder, similar to warped rotors. Eventually, the spot will wear down and be the same as the rest of the rotor. But since you replaced them already, then just motor on.