Journey_SeXT

There are really only 3 kinds of posters on automotive
forums:
1 Really happy owners who are usually the appearance modders.
Little annoyances don't bother them much as long as it starts every time.
2 Really unhappy owners who need a place to vent where unlike
their dealers no one shrugs their shoulders and says we can't help.
p.s. these people are sometimes formerly happy owners who went
too far with their mods.
3 Those who don't know about car forums and have no place to vent or get help.
Watch out for these people on the highway!
That is until they find us.

well, if you want a rudimentary example of why it's good to change your brake pads after changing warped rotors: put both your hands together as if you were praying. Now bend your fingers to to the right. now straighten your left hand again, leaving your right hands finged bent back. your left hand is the replaced rotor while your right is the old brake pads... like I said, rudimentary, but gives you an idea of why .

If your rear wheels are making more dust than the fronts, something is definitely wrong. Most likely the brakes aren't relasing fully and are slightly dragging. When I did my rear brakes - at less than 36k miles - the left rear pads were worn completely away while the rights still had plenty of lining. Upon disassembly, I found the left caliper pins had no lubrication and a thin coating of rust. I cleaned an lubricated them thoroughly, and immediately took it to the dealer to complain about the defect. They replaced both rear calipers under warranty, but the funny thing is - the pins aren't in the calipers, but in the brackets. And I'm pretty sure they didn't change the brackets. Oh well, I think my lube job on the pins is doing the trick because I haven't had any more problems.

Probably also flex lines/abs controller/master cyl. ...........bigger brakes are going to have a differnt feel, and reaction to a certain pedal pressure. Othere things have to be changed to compensate for that.

Thank you for mentioning the transmission. My wife and I were ready on buying the Ford Escape until I googled a few reviews and found they had a chronic problem with their transmissions.......my neighbour who owns one said his was repaired twice. No thanks, don't want to go anywhere near a big expensive headache like that!

There isn't a huge amount of clearance between the wheels and the brake calipers - if your 'lovely wife' managed to hit a curb, the wheel could be out of true enough that it is touching the brakes . . . and, the speed in question has the wheels turning at the resonant frequency for the suspension, so any imbalances are magnified.
The noise would also simply be some crud built up on the inner surface of the wheel, tapping the calipers with each revolution.
You could also have a bearing starting to go, or a CV joint.
To know for certtain, take the vehicle to a trusted suspension mechanic, describe your problem and let him have a look.

No offense to your wife but it really bugs me that people leave their vehicles idle for extended periods of time.
I rarely let my Journey run for more than 15-20 seconds after starting before I take off. I frequently turn it off at lights if it's going to be more than a 30 second wait. Any time I have to stop and wait anywhere, I always turn it off. Better for the environment and better for the pocketbook!

I use the Mother's California Gold 3 step system. Basically, bottle 1 is a cleaner wax, bottle 2 is a sealer and polish, and bottle 3 is pure carnuba wax. It's a fair bit of work since you basically have to wax the car 3 times, but worth it.
Just did it today and this is the result: