Journey_SeXT

You are definitely not obligated to go to the dealer but anything that goes wrong with your transmission flush then that little savings for the service will cost you big time in repairs as I am sure Dodge will give you a hard time in covering the costs under warranty.

If you are still under warranty I would recommend the dealer do it.

87 octane is recommended for your Journey.

I know i made the right decision with the 5 seater everytime i tell the in-laws there is no room for them! :D

Same here.

Wow, what a difference from my other cars that lasted well past the 5 year mark. Maybe an aftermarket battery is a better solution?

I'm glad everything worked out with you and Costco! Now you can hit the Caps Lock one more time to stop the shouting. :D

You can try going on the Sebring forum to read up on issues with the vehicle or check out edmunds customer reviews.

If the noise is constantly there and the mechanics have no clue as how to fix it then maybe you should try another dealer who may have a fix for your problem and save you from a lot of aggravation.

Sorry to hear your disappointment with Dodge.....Best of luck with your next purchase!

No...if you read the post above yours instruction #4 iswhat you need to do without removing the bumper.

I switched from my winter tires back to the all-seasons and surprise, surprise.....water under the right muffler! Thanks for the tip.

LOL, you scold us to "JUST STICK TO THE OWNERS MANUAL" then you tell us that your first oil change was at 4K when it should have been at 8K according to your manual. Why did you replace it that early? Chrysler has the 12 year mark written in the 2013 owners manual because to them that would probably be considered the life of the vehicle and they are probably right as most of us won't have it that long. A tranny fluid change if vehicle will be replaced within 5 years is a waste. I on the other hand plan to keep this vehicle for awhile (unless it gives me grief) so I will do the early fluid change instead of keeping old degraded oil that will cause possible damage to my tranny. By the way my wife (and I) don't put on the high miles so 30,000 miles would be 4 years which is the owners manual scheduled fluid replacement.

Since i can't get access to inspect the condition of the transmission fluid with out paying the dealer to do it i figure that 30,000 would be the best time to change the fluids to avoid any costly repairs down the road.........2013's use the ATF+4 fluid like 2011's so someone with a little more knowledge would have to explain why the major difference in change intervals between the 2 years with the same fluid.

The coolant in the 2013 models is different from my 2011. I have the orange color HOAT coolant good for 5 years or 100,000km/60,000 miles....yours should have the MOPAR Antifreeze/Coolant "10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) or equivalent meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-12106". I think from another thread i've read it is purple in colour??? Anyhow, replacing it early may be a waste of good fluid and money. I'm sure they can test the fluid before unnecessarily replacing it. As for the transmission fluid they recommend replacing it at 60,000 miles/4 years (2011 model) but since it is a sealed unit and I can't tell if the fluid is burnt I will be replacing mine at 50,000 km/30,000 miles and I'm sure the dealer will be recommending the same.

Ding, Ding, Ding.....we have a winner! It's nothing but a scam and even if they did do a flush it is not needed if you have your vehicle in for regular maintenance.

The use of an oil flush is not needed and frowned upon by Chrysler/Dodge according to my owners manual: C/P Do not use chemical flushes in your engine oil as the chemicals can damage your engine. Such damage is not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. End of C/P

Any good smoke shows with the seafoam?

I really don't want to make this a BITOG debate on synthetic vs. dino so use whatever you want to use. As long as your oil has the API stamp and meets the specs to your vehicle you are safe with whatever you choose....i do my own oil changes so the cost for me using synthetic with the Mopar filter is the same if not less than having it done at the dealer with conventional. I plan on having this vehicle for a while so I will give it the extra protection that I feel synthetic oil offers.

Here are a few advantages of synthetic oil over conventional: Synthetic offers more engine protection during cold starts In "Extreme" cold weather. Synthetic oil is more stable at high temperatures. Conventional old-fashioned oil breaks down faster at high temperature than does modern synthetic oil. Synthetic also offers better protection against the formation of oil sludge that can shorten engine life. I agree with you that a high quality filter should be used especially if you are doing the extended oil change intervals with synthetic.

This link will answer many of the questions you are asking: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9014502&contentId=7017050 Your 2013 owners manual has the following on synthetic oil: (please check your own personal owners manual to verify) Engine Oil Viscosity – 3.6L Engine SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy. The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended engine oil viscosity for your vehicle. For information on engine oil filler cap location, refer to “Engine Compartment” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle” for further information. Lubricants, which do not have both the engine oil certification mark and the correct SAE viscosity grade number, should not be used. Synthetic Engine Oils You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed.

3.5L 3.5L Engine Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove RH wheelhouse splash shield. Rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (3) clockwise to allow enough slack to remove accessory drive belt (5). Belt routing—3.5L engine To install: Position accessory drive belt (5) on all pulleys except generator (6). Rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (3) clockwise. Position accessory drive belt (5) on generator pulley (6). Slowly release accessory drive belt tensioner (3). Install RH wheelhouse splash shield. Lower vehicle.

2.7 L Serpentine Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove RH wheelhouse splash shield. Rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (5) clockwise to allow enough slack to remove accessory drive belt (3). Belt routing—2.7L engine To install: NOTE When installing drive belt onto pulleys, make sure that belt is properly routed and all V-grooves make proper contact with pulley. Position accessory drive belt (3) on all pulleys except generator (1). Rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (5) clockwise. Position accessory drive belt (3) on generator pulley (1). Slowly release accessory drive belt tensioner (5). Install RH wheelhouse splash shield. Lower vehicle.

From the Chilton online manual for 2009: 2.4 L Using a wrench, rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (8) counterclockwise until accessory drive belt (2) can be removed from pulleys (5 and 9). Remove accessory drive belt (2). Belt routing—2.4L engine To install: NOTEWhen installing drive belt on the pulleys, make sure that belt is properly routed and all V-grooves make proper contact with pulley grooves. Install the accessory drive belt (2) around all the pulleys except for the generator pulley (3). Using a wrench, rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (8) counterclockwise until accessory drive belt (2) can be installed on the generator pulley (3). Release spring tension onto accessory drive belt (2).

I really wanted the Pearl White but the wife had the final say so we settled with the Bright Silver.