Journey_SeXT
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Posts posted by Journey_SeXT
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With all the brake talk on this forum its hard to believe we missed that one.
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I would think it is something like this: http://www.bgfindashop.com/bgservices/battery.htm
Is it necessary to do? Unless you are having issues and the battery terminals are quite dirty and corroded then consider it as a money grab by the dealership.
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I did it and it was very easy...instructions are posted in this thread:
http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/2985-new-grill-emblem-with-red-stripes/?hl=emblem
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Oh, I know OHF. I gave the oil indicator a chance at my last oil change & it came on at 1500 miles after a fill of Penz Plat...what a joke...it's 5-6000 mile OCI's for me.
- OhareFred and 11journeybama
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If you are out of warranty do what you like but I go by the thinking that everything on the car has a purpose when designed by the engineers/designers. Unless someone posts info of credible real improvements that are made and many others have posted back with the same results from removing it then I would consider it other than that I'd just leave it alone.
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INSTALLATION
WARNING
To protect the hands from battery acid, a suitable pair of heavy duty rubber gloves should be worn when removing or servicing a battery. Safety glasses also should be worn.
WARNING
Remove metallic jewelry to avoid injury by accidental arcing of battery current.
CAUTION
The negative battery cable remote terminal (2) must be disconnected and isolated from the remote battery post (1) prior to service of the vehicle electrical systems. The negative battery cable remote terminal can be isolated by using the supplied isolation hole (3) in the terminal casing.
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Install the battery (1) into the battery tray (2).
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Install the battery terminal pinch clamps (1, 2) onto the battery posts. (Tighten to the proper torque specification).
Position back the battery hold down bracket (3) and install the bracket nut (1). (Tighten to the proper specification).
Install the left front wheelhouse splash shield (2) and push pins (1) (Refer to Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash - Installation)(Refer To List 1).
Install the left front wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22 - Tires and Wheels - Removal).
Install the negative battery cable remote terminal onto the remote battery post. (Tighten to the proper specification).
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REMOVAL
WARNING
To protect the hands from battery acid, a suitable pair of heavy duty rubber gloves should be worn when removing or servicing a battery. Safety glasses also should be worn.
WARNING
Remove metallic jewelry to avoid injury by accidental arcing of battery current.
CAUTION
The negative battery cable remote terminal (2) must be disconnected and isolated from the remote battery post (1) prior to service of the vehicle electrical systems. The negative battery cable remote terminal can be isolated by using the supplied isolation hole (3) in the terminal casing.
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Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post.
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Remove the left front wheel and tire assembly (Refer to Tires and Wheels - Removal).
NOTE
Gasoline battery shown, diesel battery similar.
Remove the push pins (1) and remove the left front wheelhouse splash shield (2) (Refer to Body/Exterior/SHIELD, Splash - Removal)(Refer To List 1).
Loosen the nut (1) and position the battery hold down bracket out of the way (3).
Loosen the pinch clamp bolts and position aside the battery cable clamps from the battery.
Remove the battery (1) from the battery tray (2).
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Cleaning the intake will not clear the code nor will changing the part. The code must be cleared with a scan tool, like the one they used to read the code to begin with. I would clean it again, drive back to autozone and see if they can clear the code. Then see if it comes back. Good luck!
I don't think Autozone is allowed to clear codes.
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sorry for resurecting an old thread, but I want to update my experience with the EBC dimpled and slotted rotors with Green Stuff pads:
about 11,000 miles, no warping. That's a record for my car. Past factory rotors warped within 3,000 miles. Front pads are noticeably low though, about .100" of pad left, and a noticeable lip on edge of rotor. Not much of the dimples left. Rears have much more life left. So I'm thinking I'll need fronts in about 5,000 miles.
So while I'm happy they are not warping, the car is still eating them for lunch. 15,000 miles (one year of driving) from premium rotors and pads is not good mileage.
Despite this, I like the car very much.
carry on.
I know the brakes on these 2011's are not the greatest but warping within 3,000 miles is not a braking issue but a driver issue. You must be braking at high speeds for that warping to happen.
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Welcome!!
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I like using the Mopar Filters which are great quality but for now I'm using the Bosch Premiums which were on clearance at Walmart for $5.00 ea. It does a great job filtering and probably at half (or more) the cost of K&N filters. I'll pass on the K&N's but thanks for posting this.
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A Tim who?? Never seen one.
Well, you haven't lived until you've been to one.
I love them for their coffee...I think it's laced with crack or something because they can get line ups of people out the door just waiting to satisfy their coffee fix. I didn't think that I was addicted to it but after 2 weeks in the US soon as I crossed the border back to Canada it was the first stop the family had to go to. -
Double post.
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I use the Mopar OEM engine filter and Fram freshbreeze cabin filter. The Mopar engine filter is of good quality and does a fantastic job regarding engine filtration as noted by Blackstone in my UOA that I posted. Maybe costs a few dollars more but worth it IMO.
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Is this suppose to be a white Journey in a snowstorm in the north pole pic?
Welcome to the forum Weav!!
- Lawdog1911, dhh3 and Journeyman425
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You guys are talking trash about the grand caravan and the journey has the same front end. Cant even tell them apart
Alright, I'll give you that but everything else from the front windshield and back isn't the Caravan.
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I agree with those in favor of taking advantage of the lemon law. You got stuck with a lemon and to date both your dealer and Dodge have not been helpful in resolving your problem.
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Well at least we can't call the OP a 1 post wonder....they have a full count of 2.
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I'll do a lot of maintenance on my vehicles. The 62te drain and fill is one I don't particularly feel like doing myself. Reason 1 is the warranty coverage - it's an expensive component to have to repair, and I don't feel like dealing with questions as to whether or not it was done correctly. Reason 2 is that the hassle involved with draining that particular transmission (since there is no drain bolt), refilling it, and making sure it's done just right, is worth the extra $30 to pay someone else to do it.
Your right there is no drain bolt but once you drop the pan you could install one for future use.
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Wow, that sucks. At least you didn't get hurt....what about the deer?
First trip to Canada
in Lounge
Posted
Hmm, I find that hard to believe as both areas are quite affluent...actually, Oakville I believe is the richest town in North America and Vaughan is highly populated with an immigrant community. Maybe I don't notice it because I live here but I am almost positive that in Oakville and Vaughan or in the entire GTA you are not going to get the Bob and Doug McKenzie talk. Toronto is a highly diverse population with many ethnicities so many will have accents but not the Canadian you are used to hearing on TV.