Journey_SeXT

Great, looking forward to hearing about a job well done. BTW before you complete this weekend DIY project don't forget to pull out the caliper slide pins clean and grease them. I use this one http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-caliper-lube-80-ml-0383794p.html#.VML5r_7F-Hw and this one is also great http://www.amazon.com/Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound-Ounce/dp/B0054DWS1W

Wait... n/m... forgot about the 4 speed auto... still, I'd like opinions on the 4 cylinder models... is the four speed auto really THAT bad? I've never owned a vehicle with more than 4 auto gears... yes, I drive them 'til they die, lol.

The only issue of 4 cylinders is that they are considerably under powered compared to the 3.6L. Other than that they are a pretty rock solid engine as I don't see to many complaints about them. I know that Bramfrank had the 4 cylinder so maybe he can chime in and give his opinion on them.

I ran across the Google Car in the summer with my little Hyundai Accent

I have a 2011 with no problems (knock on wood). The only chronic problem that I know of is the brakes tend to go quickly on the 09-11....also some of the earlier built 2012's have the smaller brakes and were changed mid way through the year so you may want to be aware of that before your purchase. Good Luck and hopefully we will see you here in the future posting about your new Journey purchase.

I know I did a quick search on Edmunds consumer review before joining here. The Journey was kind of a last minute purchase as my wife and I were set on the Ford Escape. This forum came after the purchase.

It doesn't say flush on my 2011

First into dealer this morning, Out in 15 minutes. Code said battery in fob low so they changed battery (no charge) and reset. We'll see if this reappears, as it was a one-of thing and hasn't repeated and there were no start/entry issues. Will watch and repost anything that happens. My service guy said yes, Chargers have this occurring, but not much activity on Journeys. I'm only 2km from the dealer so can pop over if there is recurrence If anything happens at least there is paperwork in the system.

H.P.

Hmmm, strange you didn't get the battery low message. Maybe you had a software update of recent and they have it worded differently.....maybe something to get people down to the dealership? Thanks for the feedback HP!!

LOL....I am glad they are much more wiser than the engineers who designed the vehicle. When it comes to tranny fluid replacement I find dealerships no better than a quickie lube place. When I'm ready have mine done I hope there will be some good youtube vids on how to do a drain and fills on a sealed unit.

The owners manual of my 2006 Jeep Commander said no flushes on anything, but my Dealer overlooks this fact on every car they service. Remember, if the flush causes any issues, it is on their dime. The flush will definitely open everything up, but could cause issues with o-rings or gaskets. A good friend of mine works on transmissions; this is all the work that he does. And, he will drain the torque converter even if it requires the removal of the transmission.

If you know someone with a lift, get it up in the air and loosen the drain bolt. This will give you an overall condition of the fluid. If it flows, you can probably get by with just draining it. But if it is like tar, well you get the picture.

Shame on your dealer as the owners manual is what they should be abiding by.

Will do. Appointment @ 7 am Thurs. I'm an early bird. (old buzzard)

You are not alone on this as I see almost every Chrysler/Dodge vehicle with the push start has this issue. Plenty of "service keyless system" topics on their forums....the Charger forum (20 pages long) seems to fix the problem by replacing the door handles. Are you having issues entering the vehicle? Make sure you let us know what is the deal with this message Hockey_Puck.

I would start by changing the transmission fluid. Do a flush to get the old fluid out of the torque converter. If you just drain, there is still old fluid left inside. Then hook it up to a laptop (StarScan) and see what the lock up speed is set to. 35 - 40 would be reasonable, but just changing the fluid may solve the issue. A flush will clean out all the ports, etc. but it sounds like you already know this stuff. Good luck.

Actually I don't think that a full flush is a good idea with over 100,000 miles on it. The drain & fill is the safer method to do.....many auto manufacturers like Honda recommend only drain and fills and not a full flush as their is a greater chance of experiencing transmission issues after the flush. That is something I would definitely get a transmission shops opinion on instead of the dealerships service center.

This is a no brainer...2012 SXT!

I do not know why mechanics can not do their job. Dirty Throttle Body? Run some good (STP, Chevron) fuel line/injector cleaner because you now know it is not the plugs. This may take a few tank fulls, depending how dirty your fuel system is. Wrong plugs can allow carbon to build up. You stated that this goes away after about 50 mph. I still think that the transmission is locking up too soon. I would have them check this setting, also. How bad does it get when you are running the AC (draining power from the engine)?

I have my doubts too on the wrong plug theory....especially in his 1st post he says that the plugs were changed and the problem still persists. I'm thinking another dealership or reputable mechanic would be best to try next.

Yup, already looking at the Chilton how to's.

If you find Jimmy Hoffa let me know. The dealership has one more that has been used as a demo with about 1500 miles on it so that is really a used one. By the way what is the GTA ?

Greater Toronto Area.

Thanks for the posting with the info Steve! Who replaced the plugs the first time you or the dealer? Also, if their is no improvement in performance either go back and make some noise or look for another dealer for a second opinion.

Welcome to the forum. What are the odds of finding a new 2013 when they are already sell 2016s?

No way in a million years you'd find a 2013 still brand spanking new on any lot here in the GTA.

Would the idler pulley be part of the powertrain warranty? I do also have the extended warranty. I would like to get this done but I am not paying out of pocket for it.

Here is the PDF file:

idler pulley noise.pdf

Congrats & welcome to the forum!!!

You might want to take advantage of the free oil change soon to remove that old oil that has been sitting around for two years.

Dirty throttle body? Please post back if the fuel induction actually works...don't be another 1 post wonder statistic!

Fronts just press in like normal. Since I do my own brakes and I have 5 vehicles, I purchased a brake tool set off amazon for like $60. It has all adapters necessary to do brakes on just about every car out there.

Yah, I should definitely invest in the brake tool set as my cube brake tool to rotate the piston back is really not the greatest....but works. Princess Auto also has the tool set at a decent cost.

Welcome to the forum!!

You can go to Canadian Tire or Parts Source and rent the tools needed for the brakes. Here are some DIY video's that are probably better than the instructions posted above so or can be used together.

Rear Brake Pad Replacement on Dodge Journey:

Front Pad Replacement: (NOT a Dodge Journey but the work is relatively the same)

Paul's travel's also has many useful tutorials:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Dodge-Journey-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/index.html

1. • to start the process of piston retraction.

   

If caliper adapter was replaced, install caliper adapter bolts (1) and tighten to 100 N-m (74 ft-lbs).

REAR BRAKE PADS

NOTE

There are two different abutment shims. If installed in wrong orientation, pads will not fit properly.

NOTE

If the brake pads have a protective paper on the rear face of the brake pad plate, it must be removed before pad installation.

Assure adapter abutments are free from debris or corrosion. Apply an even layer of Mopar© Brake Lubricant or equivalent to entire area of four abutments PRIOR to shim installation. Install four new pad shims (4).

Place the brake pads (2, 5) in the abutment shims (4) clipped into the disc brake caliper adapter bracket (3) as shown.

REAR CALIPER MOUNTING

CAUTION

Use care when installing the caliper (2) onto the adapter bracket to avoid damaging the guide pin boots.

CAUTION

When removing or installing a caliper guide pin bolt, it is necessary to hold the guide pin stationary while turning the bolt. Hold the guide pin stationary using a wrench placed upon the pin's hex-shaped head.

Install the disc brake caliper (2) over the brake pads on the brake caliper adapter bracket (3).

Align the caliper guide pin bolt holes with the adapter bracket. Install the upper and lower caliper guide pin bolts (1). Tighten the guide pin bolts to 35 N·m (26 ft. lbs.).

TIRE AND WHEEL MOUNTING

Install tire and wheel assembly (1) (Refer to Tires and Wheels - Installation). Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).

Lower vehicle.

Pump brake pedal several times to ensure vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.