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Posts posted by Journey_SeXT
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Would this be the same for a 2010 3.5L V6??
Yes it is.
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2.4L
The Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the rear of the engine block near the transmission.
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Remove the engine cover (1).
JS GAS AIR BOX
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Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
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Remove the air cleaner body (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal)(Refer To List 1).
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Disengage the upstream O2 sensor wire harness retainer (1) and crankshaft position sensor wire harness retainer (2) from the heat shield (3).
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Remove one nut (1) and two heat shield retaining bolts (2).
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Remove heat shield (3).
SENSOR LOCATION
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Remove the crankshaft position sensor mounting bolt.
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Remove sensor with the wire harness attached.
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Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector from the crankshaft position sensor.
The Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the rear of the engine block near the transmission.
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Remove the engine cover (1).
JS GAS AIR BOX
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Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
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Remove the air cleaner body (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal)(Refer To List 1).
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Disengage the upstream O2 sensor wire harness retainer (1) and crankshaft position sensor wire harness retainer (2) from the heat shield (3).
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Remove one nut (1) and two heat shield retaining bolts (2).
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Remove heat shield (3).
SENSOR LOCATION
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Remove the crankshaft position sensor mounting bolt.
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Remove sensor with the wire harness attached.
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Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector from the crankshaft position sensor.
- 2late4u, jkeaton and jwingender
- 3
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I would have loved it if shortly after they crushed the vehicle that FCA made a TV news announcement explaining about this couples problems and how they would like to make things right by having them drive their DJ to one of their dealerships where they will fix all of their issues free of charge!!
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Have a 2016 Nissan Altima rental this week. Not nearly as nice to drive as my 2011 DJ.
Likes: Engine has plenty of power, transmission shifts super smooth, base comes with backup cam,great fuel efficiency.
Dislikes: Steering wheel is too small, interior controls are wonky, seats are a strange material, no lumbar adjustment, backup cam screen is small.
Overall the Altima is not as fun to drive as my DJ. Lots of interior noise and twitchy steering. Small steering wheel makes that worse. Engine and transmission seem good but I'm afraid to use all of the power. Maybe that would get better with time. I miss the cargo space of my DJ this week.
Anyway, good car, but I prefer my 5 year old DJ overall.
Peace.
I had an Altima 2 years ago and and a Camry last year as my Florida rentals and I wasn't impressed with either but did like the Altima over the Camry....this year I'm driving my DJ down to Florida so I expect it to be an enjoyable drive.
- dhh3, jkeaton, BlindSquirrel and 1 other
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REMOVAL
Before proceeding, (Refer to Front Suspension/Front - Warning).
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Remove the engine appearance cover.
COWL TOP SCREEN
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Remove the two push-pins (1) securing the cowl top screen at the ends. Remove the remaining push-pins (2). Remove the cowl top screen (3).
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Remove the wiper arms. (Refer to Electrical/8R - Wipers/Washers/ARM, Wiper - Removal)
COWL SCREEN
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Remove the push-pins (1) securing the cowl screen to the wheelhouse brace and cowl. Rotate the screw (2) in the center of the cowl screen 90° clockwise to release the screen. Remove the cowl screen (3).
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Raise and support the vehicle. (Refer to Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure)
TIRE AND WHEEL MOUNTING
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Remove the wheel mounting nuts (3), then the tire and wheel assembly (1).
If both strut assemblies are to be removed, mark the strut assemblies right or left and keep the parts separated to avoid mix-up. Not all parts of the strut assembly are interchangeable side-to-side.
BRAKE HOSE MOUNTING TO STRUT
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Remove the screw (1) securing the flex hose (2) routing bracket to the strut (6).
STRUT MOUNTING TO KNUCKLE
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While holding the stabilizer bar link (1) stud stationary, remove the nut (4) securing the link to the strut (3).
The strut assembly-to-knuckle attaching bolts (5) are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the knuckle while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
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While holding the bolt heads stationary, remove the two nuts (2) from the bolts (5) attaching the strut (3) to the knuckle (6).
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Remove the two bolts (5) attaching the strut (3) to the knuckle (6) using a pin punch.
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Lower the vehicle just enough to open the hood without allowing the tires to touch the floor.
STRUT UPPER MOUNTING NUTS
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Remove the three nuts (1) attaching the strut assembly (2) upper mount to the strut tower.
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Remove the strut assembly (2) from the vehicle.
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For disassembly, (Refer to Front Suspension/Front/STRUT, Suspension - Disassembly).
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I had my power steering hoses replaced I get home and I got oil dripping I go look under ride and the frame is all wet I wipe it down and its fine as of now but what a disgrace taking it to a dealer that I trust and ive referred maybe people to now making me look bad
Its all good tomorrow ill have a chat with the Manager of the operations fluid looked brown & red mixed) driver side front I know its probably from the old hoses.
What a day let me tell you your suppose to come home peace of mind but in the end you end up like me worrying
Complete Non Sense
Sorry I had to vent
Probably leaking because they reused the clamps which should have been replaced with new. Not a big deal but an inconvenience for sure.
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I believe that if you are altering the performance of your exhaust system with an aftermarket then yes it probably will void your exhaust warranty but not everything else that is warrantied in the car unless the dealer can prove that damage is due to the exhaust modification. You may want to check with the dealer what your options are.
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There is a recall/TSB for one of the cylinder heads on the Pentastar, but I'm not sure of the model years that are included. Something to look into. It was fixed by 2014.
I believe this is the TSB.
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at what mileage did you do your transmission fluid and filter change i was asking my dealer and they want you to change it at about 50-60k and i asked him wasn't that for cars that were in heavy duty use or heavy towing and that the book says about 100k and he kind of hem hawed a bit and said well ya but we recommend it sooner than later...dealer wants about $150 to do the service..
I will be changing both my coolant and transmission fluid soon and I am just passed 100,000 km / 60,000 miles. I just checked my Transmission fluid the other day and it is still in good shape with good color and no burnt smell. I would suggest that you check your fluid too so you aren't changing it out when it is dark and not recommended to switch it out.
EDIT: I just noticed you have a 2014 2late4U so I think you are still awhile away from a tranny fluid change but still doesn't hurt to check it.
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It could be a wheel bearing as I had a similar issue with a vibrating noise at certain speeds --> http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/2775-vibration-at-80kmh-2011-journey-sxt/?hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bbearing#entry17820
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If you are planning on getting a rental from the airport you can preview the vehicles they have here --> https://www.orlandoairports.net/parking-transportation/rental-cars/ and I don't believe any of them have a Journey for rent.
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Here is probably the best video you are going to get on a spark plug replacement for a 3.6L engine --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3SqhKgoRcc
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1979 Camaro
1989 Hyundai Sonata
1990 Acura Integra
1996 Honda Civic
1999 Honda CR-v
1999 GMC Savanna
2008 Chevrolet Aveo
2011 Dodge Journey
2014 Hyundai Accent
- dhh3, johanbrandon and rolly
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I agree with RTM and go with the better quality brakes instead!!
Personally, IDK if I would even bother doing an upgrade in a bigger brake on my 2011....I think I'm at the point of upgrading the vehicle instead. I just recently changed my rotors and pads with the Wagners. It's no big deal for me keeping the original brake setup even though they need replacing a little sooner than the bigger brakes found on the later models. Personally, I love doing brake work so having it done a little sooner is a real treat for me and for my kids who are learning how to do brakes. From now until my next brake change I just purchase brake parts bit by bit when they go on special and by the time I'm ready for my next change in a few years i'll have all the parts needed & purchased at a great price.
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I like the idea of the quick struts as I do not have a way to compress the struts and the nearest place that can is 25 miles away
I would definitely go the Monroe quick strut route without the hassle of compressing the coil springs but to answer your question on finding the nearest place to compress.....http://www.ebay.com/bhp/strut-spring-compressor-tool
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No Pan Am games. Just baseball, beers, and brats.
Peace.
Hey RTM thanks for letting us know that you had a good time in T.O.! We always enjoy having our southern U.S. neigbours/neighbors visiting us. As an FYI for our U.S. friends our dollar sucks right now at about 76 cents to the American dollar so your money will take you a little further out here now.
A once very proud and vocal owner, now wondering.
in Owner Impressions
Posted
Yah, that I would imagine will be a major uphill battle to get a warranty claim on as most (if not all) dealers will use any excuse possible to say the issue is not from the paint but caused by a stone chip, salt or whatever. I hope the OP gets a resolution to this issue.