5rebel9

With the symptoms you describe, the most common fault is internally collapsed front brake hoses. A quick way to check is when the pads are binding up to crack open the bolt at the hose to caliper and see if the wheel then spins.

Are you a DIY'er? First thing to check is the shift cable end out on the trans for wear where it connects to the trans selector rod. The range "sensor" is inside the trans, and I THINK can be reached by removing the FRONT cover and "solenoid" pack. NOT hard, BUT must be careful(not a novice job).

08 G6gt Sedan 04 T&C minivan (factory tow package) 98 Avenger es (currently stored) SOON to arrive....2010 Buick Lucerne cxl

Normally a very dependable motor. That said with flashing CEL did you also try and pull codes from the computer? Being a VVT motor there could be a problem with that system making timing not correlate with other sensor inputs to the computer. Yet more questions for you...how many miles on it and what kind of maint has been done in the recent past to the engine? There are many possibilities as to just what may be the cause to your particular concern, but background info offered is very thin to go into specific suggestions.

Please don't take this personally, BUT just what size engine is under the hood of your DJ? Better info can be offered when members don't have to start out with the 20 questions game. LOTS of new members seem to do this,.

Nice job! I've replaced similar bulbs for dash cluster lights in many dodge vehicles, but not in HVAC controls to know what they used. Also I'm to new to the Journey to have been working in the dash stuff yet. I don't even have a cheap Haynes book yet for ours, like I usually get for each of my cars.

Sorry, I must not had enough coffee in me yet that I missed that. But I still believe the alternator to be OK along with the rest of charging system controls( the ECM also plays into charge rates). I do believe the battery to be the culprit being 5 tears old. As for my posting of "do what you want"....I think you have just gone a long and overly involved process in reaching your same conclusion.

Well, voltage readings are a FAR cry from what you posted of 14.5v earlier! AND in your area, 5 years on a battery is a LONG time and would definitely be on the worn out side. Do what you want, it's your vehicle......

This may not apply to you directly, BUT also a good way for an emergency delivery of some of that GOOD Canadian beer that we can't get in the States due to the higher alcohol content. I was deployed to CFB Bagotville for "cold weather operations training" USMC air wing back in '79. And man was it COLD and REAL SNOW amounts! Our CFB host squadron people were the BEST and taught us "gyrenes" how to really enjoy the liberty time! And I thought that Buffalo NY got cold and snow.........

Nope, that's a proper alternator output. Best wat to load test is at "normal" state, NOT fully charged and the test.

Do you have the "big screen" audio with nav/bluetooth/ and all that stuff? I've heard many cases of such not shutting down properly and killing batteries in short (2-3 days). Also you really should have the batteries properly load tested with meter that shops and parts stores use to properly determine battery health. Most will do this for FREE.

They should have but you don't say who the "they" were that did the work. to have checked the ball joints properly(it's not just a visual check). And because of the way they are mounted are a bit more of a difficulty level to replace. I'd go back to the "they" people and ASK if they did properly check them for a start to finish getting rid of the clunking.

Front end? For all that(and for age probably needed them all), But the Ball Joint mounts into the steering knuckle pointing ball stud down(opposite of most other vehicles) and are tricky to diagnose for wear. Not stated by you, so I'll suggest they be checked (and properly).

Passenger side FRONT or REAR?

Agreed, but further postings led me to think there was more going on than that and what I had started out with. Spark Plugs are actually EASIER to do than the battery maint on the 2.4 motor, and just as important. Without specific answers to my questions, it's hard to give real help and not just conjecture. I hope people like this don't treat their family doctors with giving health concern/symptoms info to get good health treatment in return. NOTE: This last statement is not meant directly to the OP.....there are a lot of "members" that post similarly.

Yes there is a seal at the pinion shaft for the steering column. Never saw one leak there unless the rack corroded there. Most common is the ends for the inner tie rods. If it was the pinion shaft seal, as it seems the case here. Yes it would shoot under running pressure into the cabin thru the foam cover column plate of the firewall. WHAT A MESS to clean up!

There are a number of different cat converter codes. Some of which can help indicate why the car might be having a hard time "firing up" and running. The code number (P- - - -) would be more help. As with any car, odd things can happen in COLD winter weather...don't know general location you're at for weather, but yes with 130 k miles there is the possibility of a failing fuel pump in the gas tank that could be considered. On a forum and sight unseen hard to give an exact here's your problem and fix for it. Thanks for posting the code. YUP computer is sensing the converter not operating up to par(partly plugging up) This can be from poor fuel injector spray while driving and proper spray to starting. I know this won't give a quick fix to your main concern of hard/ not starting. But when you can get it started go buy a can of SeaFoam and add it to the gas tank with a fill up and then you need to do some good highway speed driving to let it work thru the fuel system and it will also help clean up the cat converter too.

IF the starter cranks the engine at what was normal speed before this happened, then I doubt that even the alternator is the concern. As I asked before, when the car does start and you drive it...is the yellow engine warning light on? Auto Zones and such parts stores can check the computer for codes for free. I suggest once it starts to do that and post back the code numbers they can retrieve if there are any. This will give a clearer picture of what is going on.

Then it does NOT sound like a battery problem if there is plenty of crank from the starter motor. How many miles on the car and if over 60,000 miles have the spark plugs ever been replaced? What size engine in your Journey? the 4 cyl(2.4) or the V6 (3.6)?

Looks like time for a new R&P. Going to be a mess to clean up all that oil. Yeah that is an odd happening that I have not seen in a long time either, good to hear you finally found the last of the leaks as no systems would hold that much fluid.

Told by so many people about what? WHO put the battery in 2 months ago? Did they clean the cable terminal clamps and make sure they fastened tightly to the battery posts? What is the "hard start"? Plenty of engine crank but no run or not wanting to crank at all? When it does run, is the Check Engine light on? Has it ever had codes read from the OBD port under the dashboard?

Even IF there was still another leak, with that amount of fluid you have to see it or check things like coolant level or motor oil levels . I know of NO vehicle that would need that much fluid as you post of. Last thought is to check the R&P end boots that rack seals have not blown out and sending fluid into the subframe, but again you would SEE IT.

LOL...WE are getting that kind of snow today and tomorrow. And your posting is EXACTLY as I've been telling my son of driving his AWD DJ this first winter. Our rural towns and State highway crews do a pretty decent job of keeping the roads clear of deep snow, it's just the packed snow and slush from salt that we have to watch out for. Here in WNY roads crews are very good about plowing in timely manner for normal hours of driving. I don't want him "horsing around with the DJ like he did with his old Neon!

I'm new to the journey, but long time with Dodge/Chry. Could perhaps they have incorporated a P/s cooler into the radiator? A leak there would send P/S fluid there into the radiator. That's one quick place to look as there's NO WAY 10 quarts of P/S oil would be used.

Correction to the total miles of his road trip...they put on 650 miles on their trip Sat. Son forgot to reset trip odo settings before departing on the full fuel fill up. I only said about O2 sensor replacement because I did note a small but distinct difference between bank 1 and bank2 LTFT and STFT readings also but not posted here. Could be some poor spraying injectors or weak sensors due to miles on the Journey. BUT this trip will help figure things out now that it's had a good long run As I posted before, he has not been driving it much and just occasional short runs since getting the car during the COVID "crisis". And this is also part of the reason for the Seafoam dose for this trip that was made, as we had not done this prior. Thank you for your thoughts all the same and will keep them in mind. Be assured that I'll keep all here posted about this Journey's journey!