5rebel9

I can't speak from experience with the DJ on brand that does best...yet But I've felt that Gabriels seemed a bit softer in ride quality over Monroe/Moog in may many other past Dodge/Chry vans and cars. Of course it is the springs that make the difference in cornering and the hyd. shock portion that controls the compression/rebound on rougher roads. And I've found that "quick struts" tend to use the softer spring rate springs. I was very disappointed in curves and rough road susp. travel in the Gabriel struts I put in my 04 T&C with factory tow package (firmer springs). But I just watch my speeds and road craters more closely to compensate now.

Not a lot of truly "made in USA" stuff anymore. With quality come cost, how thick is your wallet for budget? Check out rockauto.com, I've used them for many years now and am very satisfied with purchases from them. Just watch the shipping at checkout if you use them, some items have exploded in shipping costs lately. For example Just 2 weeks ago I was going to buy a replacement LF fender for my 04 T&C for a GREAT PRICE of $27.00...Cheapest shipping was $220.00 for that $27.00 item!

If indeed you have a single zone front heat and not the separated front heat. I would think that manually closing the blend door(or opening it would also change the drivers side heat level, something you did not post of observing. IF your front heat is changeable for pass. side from drivers side, there should be another actuator and door that you've missed for the pass. side. I've also read on another Chy. forum of the rod in the HVAC box to the affected door coming apart so that actuator or manual movement does not function even though those parts move. I'm new to the DJ line but not Dodge/Chry., maybe a bit more "clarification on just what you've got would be helpful as I know some folks say single zone meaning just front heat and not rear heat(a separate system) and others saying dual zone meaning driver and pass. side separately adjustable.

Welcome to the forum. But have you done any electrical testing to determine dead? The J is 11 years old and power motors don't last forever(just like the slow drivers window) Check out youtube for interior door panel or power window motor replacement for any journey up to 2014 to give you a clue on what you're about to get into. And if you feel you don't have the skills needed to do such, I'd suggest a reputable independent repair shop to diagnose and repair the problem. PLEASE keep us posted on what goes with your Journey's journey to fixing it's ailment.

I've had mopars for over 25 years and never had good luck with BOSCH brand O2 sensors. I'd suggest try replacing the downstream one with an OE brand like NTK(or NKT...I'm partly dyslexic ,,,LOL;) ) Run some Seafoam in the fuel, it will also help clean out the converter.

What kind of driving do you do and what other CEL codes have you had in the recent past with the J? If a lot of short drives are done , put a good dose of Seafoam fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank and DRIVE highway speeds for the tank over the course of a week and see what it does. The 2.4 is not known to be that troublesome a motor. Also inspect the exhaust system for any cracks or openings between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors, They can throw some pretty weird codes if air can get in before the downstream sensor. And it is the downstream sensor that is the primary trigger for the P0420 code, Note these motors are also pretty finicky on OE brand sensors, Hope you used OE.

Sorry to hear that Insurance policy would not cover it. A good chance that that was the START of the problem, but now you will still have to repair what "smoked" under the hood. Pretty intensive to track all out and costly repair if not DIY. I'd start with the antenna and module you post of. Then start testing TIPM relays and fuses AND the wiring that goes into the TIPM underneath it. That should be enough to keep you busy till CHRISTMAS...LOL PLEASE keep us posted on any updates and progress.

Yes, my son does love the new to him ride and the wife and I very much like it also. My only "thing" is that it can't do all that my old 04 LWB T&C can do.....Otherwise this one would be MINE. I still watch for that "can do" everything and fuel frugal vehicle. Being that my son has limited income due to full time college, we have him pay his own fuel expenditures and maint as best he can afford(and then we help out), so that is part of why he's not taking it out so often as he did with the Neon!

I don't know exacts of the specs,but I would assume that compression ratio and exhaust restrictions to be the difference in HP ratings. BTW, Decent looking engine bay shot for a Mitsu! Note...I have a 2.5 V6 mitsu/Dodge 98 Avenger Coupe!

What trim level is this Journey? Are you sure you checked all proper fuses? Does anything else not function? And was this a sudden total failure or were things going awry over time? EDIT: How did you check the 40 amp maxi fuse? They are not the easiest to check, like the other blade style fuses.

I'm really not so sure that specs of lift/duration would be any different as the 2.4 is known as the "world motor" and used in many vehicles. I'm also on an Avenger forum and this topic comes up quite often. One member tried such and found no diff, and even talked with a cam regrinding business. Yes they could RE grind a cam for change at GREAT cost, and no guarantee what the VVT system would do with such a change. That member GAVE UP and left it alone on cams and even found the Evo X manifold that he adapted in even left certain drivability aspects wanting.

I'd start with checking for broken wires inside the rubber "boot" between the drivers door and the body of the car. Broken wires are easy to see and repair as they are color coded wires to "patch" back together.

That is all FINE, He just liked the 32+ mpg the Neon gave. I figured fuel to miles at 23mpg and we have a lot of big hills to go up and down. Just a bigger car/motor and AWD.....

11/08/20 UPDATE Well the Journey is as set for winter as I can make it. Finally got the TPMS sensor in the one wheel "squared away" and slow bead leak fixed on another tire. I did a complete cooling system flush with new T-stat,as the friend that brokered the deal only did a drain and refill. Also did a separate heater core back flush. Now the car will "cook you out" rather than being comfortable(but with cool pass side heat). Son is not driving much, as college classes are all "online" and friends are scattered out and fearful of COVID. He also complains that it drinks fuel compared to his former NEON. I told him he has to adjust driving "style" for a bigger, heavier,AWD vehicle! Don't get him wrong...he DOES LOVE the Journey. Going to try the all seasons it came with for this winter, and if too nasty of weather hits...he just does NOT need to be out with the car. He loaded the journey for the first time with his COMPLETE drum kit, and all just barely fit with the front pass seat still free for a "copilot"! Something he could barely fit a basic "kit" with his Neon after much time figuring for the last 5 years! Stay "tuned" for future postings on the journey of this 2011 AWD Journey!

I know that I should probably start a new thread about my son's "journey" with his Journey, but will bring this part to a close along with the latest pre winter maint. done. Finally got the tire monitor replaced a couple days ago,along with fixing a very slow rim bead leak on the LF wheel. TPMS is working fine now and no "leaky" tire. I also did a complete cooling system flush and separate heater core back flush, as we got our first snow and 32*f shot. Had low heat on pass. side front. Due to age, I also changed the T-Stat assy before refilling the system. WOW it now will "cook" you out rather than being comfortable! Any further updates will go into my own thread for his well liked ride!

Good luck to you, and I hope you find something just as capable as your DJ(but a bit more trouble free)!

Thanks for the further info, it helps complete the "picture" Yes these cars are particular about who builds these type parts, and going with OE or mfg. imprint on the originals is best. At the miles you posted, I'd tend to believe just a worn out part, and yes about replacing both. But keep in mind that there can be other causes for code setting that points to a sensor, and why I offered a few things in my response to you. GOOD LUCK, and please report back any outcomes to the challenge .

Come to think of this , this IS an 09 model and just know that it is somewhere in the EU market...Is the UK considered part of the EU, and didn't Dodge close out of the UK a few years ago? If so, then this could NOT be an official Dodge Dealer.

I know Diesels are the most common motors used in the EU/UK market, but in the NA market very few passenger vehicles are commonly equipped with the CRD. Wish I could be of more help, but I don't have much experience with these and being one of those vehicles with the controls on the wrong side of the vehicle!...LOL Everyone wants to be assured of dependable service when getting a vehicle, so I can't blame you for your last statement. Good Luck and please tell us how this ends up.

Air/fuel ratio imbalance ,,,probably running rich. How many miles on it and what maint has been done recently(spark plugs,coils) leaking (dirty) injectors and such. Did you clear codes and drive it or did the P0219a/b show right away? Check the map sensor connection and possible bad MAP sensor.

With following good directions, it is not hard to drop the bottom pan and change out the filter. Whatever you do, do NOT have the trans Flushed as many services claim to do to replace the oil. that has shown to be a killer for these transmissions. On refill there is a bolt to remove and then fill till fluid seep out that bolt hole. It's a bit "funky" for us oldtimers that have always had a dipstick to check fill level. I use Walmart brand ATF+4 for oil, it meets the requirements and is a lot less costly. Any auto parts store should have the filter cheaper than the dealers price.

What is a "small bit" of oil? How many miles on this '14 vehicle? A "seep" could be a leak from PCV system tubing or valve cover gaskets. Pumping large amounts when running is from the oil pressure end of things, as you went after the oil filter housing/cooler component right off. OR did you get a new filter cover and seal and not replace the whole unit ?

Howdy, and welcome onto the Forum here!

Not sure of the exterior underside location but try looking under the carpet between the gas pedal and the center on the dash/console. That's where the drain hose hooks up to the HVAC box on the older DJ's.

Sorry that such a big problem hit, and at a very poor time. Being pretty new here myself to the forum, I take it you've had some "issues" previously from looking up your profile. I also take it that this is a 2.4 FWD 2014 model? My sister has the same year and 2.4...nice car overall just says a bit underpowered for the many hill's in our area. SHE is envious of our '11 V6 AWD "mainstreet" after taking a ride in it. Good Luck with repair or replacement to your's