Shawn855

Also check your transmission  and engine mounts

Thanks everyone. It's -30C (-22F) today so I'll wait till we get warmer weather before getting under the suv  

Suspension noises can be tricky to trouble shoot.
The stabilizer bar on a car is to help handling by transferring weight to the opposite side of car when turning. Rather than just throwing parts at it there are steps you can do to help diagnose noise source.
 
Front and rear stabilizer bars are not  carrying weight so easiest way to see if it’s the source is to remove the end links and just leave the bar in place. This separates the assembly parts and allows you to safely drive it to check for noise. If it’s gone the source is either the end links or the two bushings on the stabilizer bar. You could even drive a few days with out end links in place until you get parts.
 
If noise is still there, there are now quite a few potential sources for noise unfortunately.  Struts are the most common wear item for noise, but there are parts often over looked , like the link rod or lateral arm bushings in the rear suspension. Not that expensive but changing them can affect alignment, so not just a diy job. Even Worn subframe mounts can create weird noises. Mechanics stethoscope can be handy for finding stuff, not very expensive either.
 
Spaying lube like someone mentioned also quite useful to isolate sources. But not a fix. 

There's another thread just above this one talking about something very similar. May be something in there that helps.

This is more of an OCD curiosity thing, but I have a question that I'm hoping someone can explain:
 
Why is it that when we press the brake pedal, the rear caliper piston comes straight out. But when we have to compress it, we need to turn it? If the piston comes straight out, shouldn't we be able to push it back straight in, without the need to turn it?
 
Thanks

lol...he's messing with you.

I was going to say I think it's related to my cell phone being in my pocket but never got a chance to fully test the theory. Makes sense. Thank you for confirming my suspicion  

There's another post on here concerning the FOBs not working correctly when too close to your cell phone. I noticed that when I have my FOB in the same pocket as my cell phone it doesn't always work. I then take my FOB out of my pocket and it still doesn't work until I push lock and then unlock. I assume the signal is disturbed somehow and it stops it from working. I tested the theory out and it proved to be correct. Then I realized that my handle thingy/button (not sure what it is called) wasn't locking the door if I stuck my phone in the same pocket as my FOB. I am now re-training myself to put my phone in the opposite pocket and no problems yet.

Mine also doesn't have any holes at the bottom. 2016 journey blacktop edition. 

I'm heading over in about an hour to pick it up... They said ti was the lower control arms but I'm going to have to drive it first. Last time they said it was fixed and it made the noise as I was pulling out of the parking lot. I'll let you know if that fixed the issue. 

Read up on it here:

https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/tire-speed-rating