Shawn855

Front suspension: DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Shield 10 7 89 Crossmember Mounting Bolts 135 100 — Crossmember Reinforcement Bracket Mounting Screws 50 37 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 48 35 — Hub Nut 160 118 — Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 95 70 — Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt 175 129 — Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Bolt Nut 145 107 — Stabilizer Bar Cushion Retainer Screws 60 44 — Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 48 35 — Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 140 103 — Strut Rod Nut 60 44 — Strut-to-Tower Nuts 55 41 — Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 — Tie Rod End Knuckle Nut 85 63 — Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100 Rear Suspension: DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Tube Bracket Knuckle Mounting Screw 21 15 — Brake Flex Hose Trailing Link Mounting Screw 20 15 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 60 44 — Hub Nut 245 181 — Do not reuse these fasteners. If removed, a new fastener must be installed and tightened to specifications. Lower Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Bracket to Body 61 45 — Shock Assembly Lower Mounting Bolt Nut 100 74 — Shock Assembly Upper Mounting Nuts 45 33 — Shock Rod Nut 30 22 — Stabilizer Bar Retainer Screws 25 18 — Stabilizer Link Mounting Nuts 100 74 — Toe Link Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Toe Link Cam Bolt Nut 95 70 — Trailing Link Body Mounting Bolts 110 81 — Trailing Link Knuckle Mounting Bolts 80 59 — Upper Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Upper Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 —

Sorry, the non adj looks out of line, because the vehicle isn't on it's own weight ANDDD the bushing is worn out. Both reasons.

It looks out of line because the bushing is flexed. Once the vehicle is back on it's weight, that entire control arms rests back into position which is why both ends of the arm need to be symmetrical with each other.

Here's a picture for reference showing that they should be symmetrical

Correct me if I'm wrong but that upper control arm is looking a little off. The front part has to be perfectly aligned with the back part no? They are supposed to be symmetrical with each other. That's why i went with the non adjustable.

Hey everyone, I obtained the service manual for the dodge journey and now have access to the following torque specs so feel free to post in here if you need them: -Body -Brakes front + back -Cooling system -Engine system -Exhaust system -Fluids chart -Front axle shaft -Front engine mounts -Front suspension system -Rear axle shaft -Rear suspension system -Restraints system -Steering column -Steering system

Awesome write-up. +1 on the balljoint tool. I ordered a different one on amazon and the problem is the one end of the c-clamp is too fat to fit in the knuckle so i had to grind mine down so it would fit. For removal, I would use the balljoint tool until it ran out of room, then finished extracting the balljoint by placing a 21mm socket against it and hammering it out. Comes out super easy. To install, i used the tool again until it ran out of room, then finished the installation by placing an installation cup around the balljoint and hammering it in gently until it seated tight. Also, for the strut job, you actually do not have to remove the wiper arms. You can place a slab of wood to keep the plastic up and out of your way, while you loosen/tighten the strut bolts. I just did my struts this summer twice (first monroe strut was faulty. Had to do job over again).

Hahaha no I don't. It's just way cheaper than every other store in my neck of the woods (Ontario, Canada). Even with shipping, the parts are still 30% cheaper than my local parts store and I get a 25% discount at my local stores. I've only had two bad experiences with them. One, my quickstruts didn't fit my Chevy Cruze properly and they accepted the refund but I had to pay for the return shipping ($150..ouch). The second time was they sent the wrong part. Also their shipping has been fast for me. Sometimes I get the parts 2 days after ordering them. I'm sure you lucky Americans have cheaper alternatives out there but us Canucks arent so lucky.

The coils themselves had grey soot at the end of them where they connect to the plugs

Changed all my spark plugs. Still a misfire on a random cylinder. Last time was 3 and 5. This time it's 1 and 4. Same coils. Brand new plugs. Lol. Oh well. Next summer I'll change all the coils. Also, changing the plugs was incredibly easy. You guys can do it no problem.

Can confirm 32mm and 118ft-lbs for axle nut. Not sure for the four little bolts. I attempted to do mine but wasn't successful. I remember the four bolts being in there really really tight and took me a wrench + hammer to get them out. Once they were out I used a slide hammer with no success. I stopped there because I didn't want to do the alternate solution : banging on it with a hammer. It just doesn't seem good for the vehicle. You have a wheel bearing mounted in the knuckle....that knuckle is held in place by a ball joint at the bottom, and a strut at the top. The strut is held in place by 4 small bolts. So you're wailing on a wheel hub that's held in place by those two points - not worth it. My next idea was to take the entire knuckle out, place it face down on two blocks of wood, and placing a socket that fits perfectly behind the bearing and hammering it out.

Same thing happening to my journey as well. Started this summer. Made sure rear climate is off. When it kicks back on by itself, it's only the front climate. I'll sit there and turn it off and watch the screen and it will turn back on sometimes within seconds.

I don't have to remove the intake to replace the cylinder 3 spark plug..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPcJNbQ-87U&t=349s Skip to 2:30. Just involves the removal of that intake piece. Once it's removed, I'll have access to the back row. He struggles with removing the piece at first but it came out.

Awesome. Thanks man. I'll report back my findings.

Sorry I meant the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. I always interchange the two terms lol. Last question for now lol: I know everyone and their grandmother say to change all spark plugs at the same time but do you think I can change just the 1 plug and coil for testing purposes? Just because changing cylinder 1, 3, 5, spark plug involves 5 minutes of work vs an hour+ of work to change 2, 4, 6 plugs.

The back of my 2016 dodge journey actually has pre-cut slits in that area, where if i were to cut them, would create little flaps to fold up to access the strut bolts.

Autoshack sells the pair for pretty cheap. I found reviews on amazon and some people reported failures after a few months where others were happy. The pair would run you $60 US dollars give or take.

Post the video on youtube and post us the link so we can hear it.

Started it again last night to show my friend. Engine was cold. No misfire. Started it this morning and it was freezing overnight - no misfire, but still a bit of shaking omw to work until vehicle warmed up. Thankfully cylinder 3 is muuuuchhh easier to access than cylinder 2 4 6 so i'll probably just change the 1 cylinder and coil for now. As for the vibration while vehicle is warming up, i'm honestly thinking it's my tires developing flat spots. The tires themselves are 5 years old. Edit: I bought a set of winter tires so we will know the answer in a month or so lol. Man, troubleshooting vehicles is a pain in the @$$. I'm a network administrator and i find configuring or fixing routers, switches, firewalls, etc, to be way easier than this nonsense lol

Just started it again since letting it sit for 2 hours so the engine wasnt completely cold but also not completely warm. It gave 1 misfire - cylinder 3. So basically the colder the engine, the more misfires on cylinder 3. I'll keep monitoring it throughout the week to see if I get misfires whole driving and/or to see if I get more than 2 misfires on cold start. Hoping I get misfires while driving so that we can say we figured out the cause. I'll also be cleaning my mass airflow sensor with the specialized cleaner in case it's dirty.

Haha yeah I was thinking of making a new topic while I was replying earlier. No engine light or anything. Only what my scanner picked up. Too soon to tell if it's related to the hwy vibration, as the misfire only happened while idling after cold start. Once I started driving on the hwy, no other misfires appeared. 85k kms on plugs, but I've been feeling the cold start engine shake since buying the vehicle at 60k kms. May I ask why you changed your spark plug(s) at 40k kms? We're you experiencing misfires already as well? Hrmm will need to research what the torque spec is for spark plugs. Haven't seen it in my manual.

I attached my obd2 scanner before cold starting the SUV and it showed cylinder 3 misfiring twice. Took it for a ride, no more misfiring. Started the engine while warm, no misfiring. So cylinder 3 is misfiring when cold starting the vehicle. Spark plug and coil pack is my next purchase or?

That mount is for the 2.4L engine. I priced out the 3 engine mounts and 1 transmission mount, and it would come up to about $230 shipped. The side mounts I can do myself. The front and rear I may get my mechanic to do. From what I'm hearing, it's the front and rear engine mounts that are changed often on this suv

Will do. I'll check the intermediate shaft bearing.