Shawn855

I'm simply trying to do the bare minimum within my power such as checking the pressure and the power. Im going to test the power when it doesn't rain. Also the gauge showed 0 and it also showed warning. So it's either empty or it's in the warning. I'm going to try slowly releasing pressure manually. If no pressure comes out whatsoever then we know the system is in fact leaking and has none in it. If pressure comes out then I'm hoping to slowly release and then the compressor will kick on since the compressor won't kick on if it's too full as well. Hey, who knows, maybe I'll get lucky and save myself a $250 diagnostic fee, and $800+ repair?

Sounds good. I'll try this when it's not raining (Couple days). To connect the mechanic AC diagnosis machine to these newer ac unit's it's about $250 just to find the problem. The machines themselves are about 20 grand. So I'll be following your troubleshooting ideas instead hahah.

How do I do that? Disconnect the plug that connects to the compressor, then the vehicle and AC on, then take a multimeter to the plug prongs that connects to the compressor?

Yeah but again, I'm afraid to overfill the system, since when I press the trigger, the meter goes from 0 to WARNING on the meter indicating it's overfilled...so I don't know which reading to trust. Going off the videos, the meter should give a reading while the vehicle is running, but their compressor is probably running whereas mine is not. The freon I got mentioned r-1234yf replacement. It was 60 dollars for a small 6oz bottle (this new type of freon is very expensive). I bought it at princess auto. I guess I can try pressing in the low port with my fingernail to see if pressure comes out like you mentioned. I can also buy a proper Ac gauge that connects to both high and low ports but I'm afraid if it doesn't give a reading like this gauge did. Then it's wasted money (gauges are about 80 dollars to test this type of freon).

It's probably giving me a false reading on the meter because the compressor isn't running...and it's not running because the freon could potentially be low. Around in circles here.

I wish I had r134. My journey uses r-2234yf. Very costly. Anyways I picked up a recharge kit on the way home and turned on the vehicle with Max Ac and connected the hose. The meter showed no pressure. Then I pressed the lever to release some freon and the gauge jumped up to warning levels. Past the full mark. I'm at a loss on what's happening here. All the tutorials show that the meter should show a reading once it's connected but it's like my meter is only showing what it's at once I add a bit of freon...I don't wanna add anymore since I'm already at the warning level...

Yes there's rear air. 80,000 kms. We have vicious summers and winters which supposedly could cause decline in freon levels?

At this point all I really need to know is if the clutch isn't spinning because of low refrigerant , or if it's an electrical issue. If it's refrigerant then I probably have a leak, and to refill it alone would cost $700 (from what the mechanic told me?) But if it's an electrical issue then at least I stand a chance at trying to fix it myself

Yes checked all fuses. When I turn the AC on and check the condenser, the belt on it is spinning, but not the clutch (front part of it).

When I was under the car dojng the bushings, there were cables in the way. I believe they were transmission and AC line. But not sure. Anyways I went to unscrew the holding bracket for them, and the bolt broke. So I fiddled around with the lines and secured them to each other and on the frame using tiewraps. I don't think I tugged hard at the lines or anything and have not seen any leaks anywhere. But the way the bracket was, it held both lines together but kept them from touching each other. Now they are touching each other because of my tie wrap. Think that would be the issue ?

Odd.....my AC worked fine last summer and now it doesn't. It only blows normal air. Also when I turn it on, it doesn't seem like anything kicks on, Wich would point to the AC condenser being the issue. The only work I did recently was change the battery, and my stabilizer links and bushings. Any tips? I have an apt tomorrow for a wheel balance. I'll ask them to check my freon level but I wouldn't think it's that since Freon is supposed to last 10 years no? 2016 journey sxt 3.6l

I'm replacing my front strut assembly. Does anyone have a torque spec sheet handy for a 2016 journey sxt 3.6L fwd? Specifically I would have to know the torque specs for the stabilizer bar strut mount nuts strut bolts Sway bar link Thanks

No I brought it in for the recall before letting it get to that point lol. Felt like a ticking time bomb

I went ahead and cleaned the motor oil pan and transmission oil pan and will monitor to see if it leaks at all. If it does, I'll go ahead replace the seal myself.

Btw,, are you sure that they would have had to remove the pan? I'm looking in the recall repair document and there's no mention of removing the transmission oil pan anywhere. Here's the recall repair document: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2016/RCRIT-16V461-1293.pdf

Ahhh so the pan was removed during the pump recall. Good to know. And the variance here is a 10mm difference at 43 celcius. The transmission shifts fine while driving so I'm not too worried about it but its at the dealer now for an oil change and i mentioned for them to check it to make sure it's not leaking.

Will do. There's another topic I saw where the person noticed the same - too much tranny fluid from factory. This confirms it I guess.

Checked mine tonight. Factory filled. Engine temp of 43 celcius yields 39mm of fluid. The acceptable mm range per the chart is 11mm - 29mm at that temp. Which means it has 10mm too much fluid. This further proves that the factory overfilled the transmission.

So i checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear to be leaking so I'm guessing the gasket we see hanging is actually residual RTV gasket maker. If anything, i have too much transmission fluid. Transmission temp 43 celcius, with 39mm of fluid (engine running, cycled through gears). At 43 celcius, the mm should be between 11 and 29mm. Should i get this adjusted or just leave it as it is?

After quickly researching it, it appears under the passenger side is the oil pan, and the driver side is the transmission pan? Is this right? Would they have had to access the transmission pan when changing the transmission pump? Also what is this in this picture? It looks like maybe a screw should have been here but is missing? Am i seeing this right?

I was cleaning the 2016 dodge journey sxt, 70k kms, and noticed what looks like wet areas where the pans are. I don't know if these are oil pans or transmission ? Can someone help me identify what these two items are? The first three pictures are on the drivers side and it looks like a rubber gasket is broken and hanging from it?? The last two pictures are on the passenger side. I'm asking because last summer I had the dealer replace the transmission pump so if this is related to the work they did, then I'd like to know. Thanks

Ouch I see why now. Over $100 just in shipping.

Wow, these prices are great! The exact same monroe quick strut at canadian tire is 80 dollars more expensive. Thanks!

2016 dodge journey 3.6L SXT Is it the same strut assembly for 2009 and up dodge journey 3.6L ? I'm browsing around and seeing how some strut assemblies are only compatible for 2009 - 2013s, others that mention 2011 - 2016s, etc etc. Yes i can use the part fitment chart to narrow it down to an exact match but i'm just thinking that if all strut assemblies are the same for 2009 - 2016, then It would allow more matches to be found, and therefore a wider pricing variance.

2016 dodge journey 3.6L SXT Is it the same strut assembly for 2009 and up dodge journey 3.6L ? I'm browsing around and seeing how some strut assemblies are only compatible for 2009 - 2013s, others that mention 2011 - 2016s, etc etc. Yes i can use the part fitment chart to narrow it down to an exact match but i'm just thinking that if all strut assemblies are the same for 2009 - 2016, then It would allow more matches to be found, and therefore a wider pricing variance.