Spektyr

I didn't have this problem with my 2013 SE. I guess Dodge's quality control is going down the tubes.
 

For anyone who runs into this topic, I just installed a Trico Exact Fit 14-A on my 2013 Journey and it works perfectly. It's a double rocker and achieves full coverage on both swings. It's the best one I've found to date.

AT LAST!!! The Michelin 9512 12" Rear (double rocker) blade seems to work well.
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00COE3Z8E/ref=twister_B00G66UUJS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
Just use the "A" adapter. It fits perfectly and wipes with the entire length. It looks like it misses just a little on the forward swing but then gets all of it on the return. I just knew a double rocker blade would be able to handle the window curvature better. This proves me right.

Now that I've had a close look at things I'll bet I could get away with using the Michelin 9514 14". Maybe I'll give it a try the next time I need to change that blade.

Call me crazy. I got a new replacement module from an Ohio dealer on eBay for about $230 and installed it today. It was a bigger pain getting the old one out than putting the new one in. I had to remove the brake pedal assembly. Anyway, I got the new one in and it works, for now at least. The hardware and software dates on the new module are a year newer than the old one so I'm hoping they have the bugs worked out and I won't be going through this again any time soon.

So far the new module works flawlessly. Good thing too because my present situation has me using it a lot more frequently. It is very convenient and makes taking calls while driving a whole lot safer.

Just as a public service announcement, be wary of the cheap rear wiper blades available for the Journey. They may not provide full coverage for clearing the rear window as the OEM blade does.
I bought a Trico 12-A Exact Fit rear wiper blade (it is nearly identical in appearance to the OEM), and seriously disappointed in its inability to remain in contact with the glass for the entire stroke of the motor. When it reaches the top 3rd of the wiper path, the highest 3 inches of the blade lose contact with the glass.
OEM is more expensive, but remains in contact for the full wiper blade pass.

Yes, unless some fluid is first removed from the reservoir or the bleeder screws are opened when retracting the pistons.

Glad we could be here for you.

Perfect! This post just answered my latest question.
Scenario: I had just come to a slow stop on a downhill when the brake warning light illuminated with a "BING". This is the first time this has happened at this particular stop light. I know my park brake was fully released so that had nothing to do with the warning. I just got home and rather than hunt through the manual I came here and found this post. It turns out that my brake fluid was about half way down so I brought it up to the 'FULL' line. I expect this won't happen again but I will find out soon enough.

So far the new module works flawlessly. Good thing too because my present situation has me using it a lot more frequently. It is very convenient and makes taking calls while driving a whole lot safer.

Call me crazy. I got a new replacement module from an Ohio dealer on eBay for about $230 and installed it today. It was a bigger pain getting the old one out than putting the new one in. I had to remove the brake pedal assembly. Anyway, I got the new one in and it works, for now at least. The hardware and software dates on the new module are a year newer than the old one so I'm hoping they have the bugs worked out and I won't be going through this again any time soon.

Well. it looks like the module has finally gone completely F.U.B.A.R. When I reset it I now get an error that the "Device is Unreachable" even though my iPhone appears to be paired properly. I even re-paired it but still have the same issue. Oh well. Like I said, I don't consider that functionality to be vital and I certainly do not feel inclined to spend $300+ for a replacement module, especially when I'm not entirely sure I won't wind up with the same problem again later on.

I bought the vehicle used so it has no bumper to bumper warranty. The interval between failures seems to be getting shorter. The most recent was 3 days. I've done some research and I'm pretty sure I can replace the module should I choose to. I'm just not sure it's worth the money for a new one and I can't guarantee that a used one won't wind up giving me the same problem. I would love to know exactly what is causing the failure. So far a power reset brings it right back.

I'm having the same type of problem on a 2013 Journey SE with the Uconnect 4.3 radio. The Bluetooth module has failed on me twice in a few months and only a power reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable under the hood for a minute or two has cleared the problem both times.
I bought this vehicle used from a reputable dealer in June 2015 and had no trouble for the first few months. The Bluetooth Hands Free system is just a convenience to me, not a vital function, so if it goes out completely I can live without it. A good Bluetooth headset can provide the same function, with the exception of automatically muting the sound system. As for music streaming via Bluetooth, I don't use it. I prefer to hook up my 64gig iPod Touch to the USB port. It's more reliable and gets charged as well.
If the Bluetooth module does completely fail and I decide to replace it I'd rather do it myself, if it isn't a nightmare to replace. Why pay a labor fee if you don't have to? Does anyone here know where the module is located and how much work is involved in replacing it? Until then I may just keep a 15mm socket wrench in the rear storage compartment in case I choose to reset it while I'm away from home.

Thanks to all who respond.

(duly obliging) U crazy.
This is such a common problem, I am not looking forward to the day that my bluetooth module craps out again as it will likely be out of warranty at that time. It will make it a lot more difficult to sell the vehicle privately.

I presume you are posting because you have no warranty left? If so. you can find a replacement module from a scrap yard. Any year from 2011 onward can serve as the donor vehicle.