SeanTacular

Here's the link . http://www.kijiji.ca/v-tires-rims/city-of-toronto/17-eagle-050-alloy-wheel-matte-black-5x5-5-5/1127873427?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true They list all these rims on kijiji in different ads plus a few more.

Sean, where are you located, and on what site did you find the rims? If I can get a set of those for $600, I'd rather do that, and run winters on them, than buying a set of steelies for next winter!

I couldn't get my cord out of the center console arm rest either. Got a 4 plug adapter with 1 usb port off ebay for $4. plugs go in bottom with switch to active on top. top 2 switches run my behind the grill led lights and foot well led lights. usb for my phone which sits on my cd slot magnetic phone holder.

I couldn't get my cord out of the center console arm rest either. Got a 4 plug adapter with 1 usb port off ebay for $4. plugs go in bottom with switch to active on top. top 2 switches run my behind the grill led lights and foot well led lights. usb for my phone which sits on my cd slot magnetic phone holder.

that was a nice sebring. did it have the dual exhaust? I remember there being a year when the convertible has duals and it looked awesome. I put duals on my second Gen JR platform sebring just cuz I saw a convertible with it. it looked stock because the tips were tiny. I had all gens but always sedans. JX, JR, and JS. platforms. Even had a cirrus for a couple months I bought used for cheap and then I found out why! hahaha

I went 1 step further for my flat USB cable. In the small upper, removable tray, I used a round file on the leading edge, crating a notch so that my cable comes out from under the tray, rather than on top.

You are absolutely right. Everything I've read to this point says Avenger until I stumbled upon a car gurus review which stated the Sebring, Avenger and Journey share the same platform. I had a 99 Sebring convertible which is what I was thinking of first before remembering the Sebring was made up until 2010. I miss that Sebring. I stand corrected. Sorry for the thread hijack, OP. Learn something new every day. : )

Oh, and just found that black one I posted above, google for;
dodge+journey+kmc
It brings up a few nice examples of bigger wheels. The black one I posted has 20's, with a 40 offset, probably 9 inches wide.

I'm thinking of getting some kind off off road rim, hard to find one tho with these 19 inch rubbers

I better check the 1010tire calc to see what you mean
So, I just checked 1010tires, and I think I'm bang on in my thinking, plugging in stock wheel width and offset, compared to new wheel and offset, says
"Extend an extra 39mm" position of the outside edge of the wheel. So essentially, measure 39mm (roughly 1.5inch) out from your current wheel, and that's where your new wheel will sit.

Disclaimer, I'm just trting to help you out!!
So, when I eye balled w/tape measure, my 1.5inch spacers, from the edge of my current, stock tires/rims, the spacers would have put my wheels even with the fenders, or flush.
Now, 1.5inches = 38.1mm
So unless I'm totally offbase and confused, or missing something, you would need at least a zero offset rim, just to put your wheels flush with the fenders.
You say you want them to stick out past your fenders, you, again, unless I'm totally out to lunch, should be looking at negative offset rims, like what are used on Jeeps to get the wheels/tires, to stick out past the fenders.
Remember, I'm coming from the Jeep world, where my Jk had, I believe 40mm offaet stock wheels, and I put on the 1.5inch spacers to avoid rubbing larger tires at full steering lock, and the spacers barely put the wheels/tires sticking out of the fenders. If my calculations are correct, with the addition of the spacers, I was at about a 2mm offset.
I no expert, but have lots of experience over the years with aftermarket wheels and playing with offsets. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me, I just don't want you Sean, or amyone else, to be disappointed after spending their hard earned cash

Just make sure the centre bore is correct, you may also need hubcentric rings if it is different.
Did you find the rims at a shop, or second hand? If at a shop, they could probably test fit one for you first.
Being a +20 rim, it won't stick out as far as you think, it will only be a 20mm difference over your stock wheels. To make them flush with the fenders, or stick out, you will need an offset of 0, or less. Check that link to the tire size calculator I put in my last post, you can plug in the different wheel sizes, offsets, etc to help you pick out your wheels.
Just trying to help you out, don't want you to be disappointed after you purchase the wheels.

On my Jeep I had the Rough Country 1.5", which are also hub centric, and had no issues whatsoever with them. I'm regretting not trying them out on the Journey before selling them.

This happened to me in my sebring which is what the platform of the journey is based on. First thing I did was get used fans from a salvage yard for $100 and installed them myself (really easy and only took an hour ish). Low fan motor usually goes really quickly since it is the one that comes on first and the most. you might want to try that route if the dealership wont fix it for free since they charged you $800 for something that wasn't the problem.

Damn I googled for hours and couldn't find a pic of a DJ with low offset rims. That looks really bad ass. The rims are only $600 and I'm gonna use my original rubber to keep costs low and this pic has me thinking it will work perfectly!!

This happened to me in my sebring which is what the platform of the journey is based on. First thing I did was get used fans from a salvage yard for $100 and installed them myself (really easy and only took an hour ish). Low fan motor usually goes really quickly since it is the one that comes on first and the most. you might want to try that route if the dealership wont fix it for free since they charged you $800 for something that wasn't the problem.

Damn I googled for hours and couldn't find a pic of a DJ with low offset rims. That looks really bad ass. The rims are only $600 and I'm gonna use my original rubber to keep costs low and this pic has me thinking it will work perfectly!!

On the Nitro, inside the back of front wheel wells was something call a "pinch weld". When the guys would do this to their Nitros, they had to take a hammer to this, to flatten it out so there would be no rubbing on full lock turns. I have no idea if the DJ even has a pinch weld!

I did some googling when I first got the Journey, looking at options, and as the bolt pattern is the same as my previous Jeep, there are a lot of low offset rims available
My favorite site for comparing tire sizes and wheel offsets, is;
https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
Where you can compare factory wheel/tire specs, to others you are considering.
Attached picture is not mine, but one I found via google.
I was tempted to try my 1.5" spacers on my stock wheels, that I had kept from my Jeep, and with a quick look with a tape measure, the factory wheels would have sat pretty flush with the body/fender.

looks pretty good altho they are exact copies of the headlights on the new range rover.

Ive always liked the look of trucks or suv's with rims and rubber hanging out the wheel wells like an inch or so. I found these rims that will fit the journey for only $600. 17x8 with offset of +20. offset calculator says they will extend outward over stock by 1.5 inches. My only worry is if it may rub the fender edge when shock is compressed. Ive never seen the wheel come anywhere close to the fender lip or going as far as up and in the fender well. What do you guys think?? Maybe im just nuts! hahaha I also saw a new dodge minivan that had its wheels hanging out an inch+ and it wasnt lifted either so Im thinking this may work.

Carritt, here are some pics. Just a bent piece of sheet metal riveted to the original shield.

Do you have aftermarket rims or Oem? On my old car I put on extra wide rims and the added stress wore out the factory bearing pretty quick. Also hitting lots of pot holes and bumps in the road can also wear them out quicker.

Do you have aftermarket rims or Oem? On my old car I put on extra wide rims and the added stress wore out the factory bearing pretty quick. Also hitting lots of pot holes and bumps in the road can also wear them out quicker.

Almost all tests show the most restrictive part of the intake and exhaust system by far is the prefilter intake tract, you can spend a few hundred to have a nice looking one or you can fab up a dryer hose or plumbers pipe and if it's less restrictive you "will" see a definite increase in throttle response and a very slight slight gain in hp/torque. It was very noticeable when I wanted to over take on the highway with the short ram on my last car. If I was doing 100kmph and stomped on it to pass it would take 4-5 seconds to get to 140 with the stock intake. Next day with the short ram it would blast off as the engine no longer felt anemic. Took 2-3 seconds to do the same pass. It was even very noticeable when revving the engine while parked. Tap the gas and the revs would jump and climb waaaay faster. Wasn't more ponies really, it just allowed the engine to rev up much faster. Like having a lighter fly wheel doesn't give you more horsepower but makes the engine spool up a lot faster. Cody asked specifically about throttle response and I gave the appropriate answer which is common knowledge. Also engine will only negate the added air if the engine uses a Maf sensor which regulates amount of airflow but engine's like the 3.6 which uses a "map" sensor adjusts the fuel to match the added amount of air. Damnit I wish I had a Dr. evil meme with the quotation for "map" sensor hahaha