vozaday

Spectra is an ok brand I’ve used them. Should be some kind of warranty on it. Fins can be brushed back a bit in a few spots without any issues, just looks bad. There are thin tubes atttatched to fins that carry the glycol, look for a kink in one of these. The older full copper rads were more durable than new plastic tank aluminum units .
 
Smelling glycol after working on rad/water pump not surprising ; so many small recesses where glycol pools and sits. It can take 50 miles and several heat cycles to just burn off residual glycol from engine bay, fender skirts etc.
 
I would borrow another pressure tester before taking anything apart. If hose rubber flattened out at connection point, shorten hose slightly so there is new sealing surface for spring clamp. Or switch to gear clamp if you suspect a drip from a weak spring clamp.

When I changed my water pump I also replaced the thermostat. High milage vehicle and it can be a wear item and it’s cheap so I changed it out. Wrestling hoses and plastic parts and cold weather not a great combination.
 
Entire plastic housing and thermostat with new oring flange gasket and bleeder screw built in for $24 approx from Rockauto, oem part. Look for a drip over night maybe, put clean cardboard under engine.

most likely the cause as above statement not a journey but will get you looking for what you need 
 

actually i looked at my 2014 3.6 and looks different from the video from what i could tell the thermostat housing and bleed strew is on the right side of the engine by the oil cooler i would run by the dealership parts department and check it out with them or may be a a local part store would have one as well...good luck

Got the radiator changed out. Will keep a close eye on coolant levels over the next couple days. 

Got the radiator changed out. Will keep a close eye on coolant levels over the next couple days. 

Got the radiator changed out. Will keep a close eye on coolant levels over the next couple days. 

Got the radiator changed out. Will keep a close eye on coolant levels over the next couple days. 

Water pump covers large part of front of engine not internal. So motor mount etc has to come off, surpentine tensioner etc. Time consuming job, took me about 3 hrs and I’ve changed pumps on quite a few different vehicles. 
 
I wouldn’t change anything until leak isolated. That’s over a thousand in parts alone,  approx. for the stuff you mentioned.  How fast is pressure dropping in rad, just temp cooling off will drop pressure by itself. 
 

Is the water pump internal like on the 3.5?  If so, might want to look at the labor involved in that before buying it......

Just temperature can cause 1/4” glycol drop so can’t really go by that. Any time I have seen glycol in an engine its a real mess. Try putting a few ounces of oil and mixed Chrysler glycol in a container and stir, would confirm it.
Even bad cap on pressure reservoir could drop pressure. If rad pinhole leak, it will gradually increase. Glycol around front pulleys points to water pump.
 
Need to not beef too much on oil filter cap, follow torque spec stamped on cap. Some people are blaming over tightening for heat exchanger failure; usually oil leak, but could be glycol to. I think design is not great.
 
Dealers use a bulk oil from drums, probably not synthetic unless you are paying for upgrade.. Good quality but not the best. I would use 5w20 synthetic from now on, great for extreme cold starts and high summer heat.
 
Transmission is not tied into radiator tanks on 3.6 engine. There is a separate finned heat exchanger in front of a/c condenser. Probably the only cooling/heating.
 
 

Coolant and oil mixing could be a couple things.  I believe the DJ has an oil cooler that when fails the two can mix (although I might be confusing with my Cherokee) or a head gasket.  The leaking radiator may or not be part of it.  I’m sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in.  My days of DIY are out the window, mine goes to the dealer (lifetime extended warranty) for everything......good luck!

Need to watch glycol and oil levels closely, one of them needs to be going down.
When glycol gets into the oil you can really tell; water based and oil based fluids mixing is messy, foamy brownish.
 
Engine oil heat exchanger mounted on top of engine has glycol going through to cool/heat. It’s made of plastic and there have been failures, mainly of oil leaking out on drivers side where oil pressure sending unit is mounted.  The way engine casting is built the oil I think will always leak on this side. Glycol could also leak from unit, only one case on this forum so far.
 
Changing oil disturbs heat exchanger a little, oil filter housing is part of assembly so leak could be triggered by oil change when oil cap removed/torqued to 27 NM. 
 
Cooling system could be pressure tested to see if it’s losing pressure. But location could be tricky, rad or heat exchanger, water pump etc.
Put clean cardboard under car over night and try to find exact location if possible. Bright orange liquid, no oil smell as you know. Glycol could even come from various hoses. Rad/heat exchanger could be fine.
 
 

Here's a pic of the guy's Journey w/3" lift.  Not for me, but I like he's been able to do it.
 
 
 

Watch this video and you will see why LEDS do not perform properly in a projector.  HIDs in a lot of halogen projectors do indeed work well, it is hit or miss though.  Some have horrible glare, but some contain it very well.  
 
 

Your kidding right?  Educate yourself buddy. There's a difference between a halogen projector and hid lol. You sound stupid when you say just aim them down.  So reduce distance for what? If you have to aim your projectors after installing hid into your halogen projectors well that's an issue lol.  No matter what you say your wrong.  Don't listen to this guy.  Do not put hid bulbs into a halogen projector.  Don't be surprised after a while of using them if you notice it getting dim.  Bet you a thousand dollars your going to melt the Chrome plating of your bowls. You can say oh I haven't had an issue.  Not yet anyways I've come across this with customers. People like you who ignore the facts and think it's fine when really it's not!

Some halogen projectors do stand up to it and have a decent cutoff.  Not always perfect but 100 times better than HID's in a reflected housing.  Another major factor is the quality of hids, low quality ones tend to build excess heat and can melt components, good quality ones are substantially cooler.  Plus bulb alignment is a lot better with quality HID's.  This I know you know as you do retrofits with morimoto stuff.  It is amazing the difference say between DDM HID's and Morimito. 
 
That being said, wow the glare off of the images 2 posts up is insane.  I haven't even seen that much glare out of any lights I have ever put in.  Be really brutal for other drivers.

Welcome! I also find it impossible to keep anything stock.

Welcome! I also find it impossible to keep anything stock.

Welcome, love the blacktops.

The wife went from a Mazda3 to an Uplander to the Journey. The fact was that the Journey was almost half the price of an Explorer or Acadia and had all the bells and whistles we wanted anyways. I prefer bigger vehicles but the wife loves the feel of a car but with the interior size of a CUV. Plus it gets surprisingly good gas mileage for a vehicle with AWD.

Welcome, love the colour combination.

Welcome. I find the Journey offers the same things.

Thanks. It's a 71 coupe that I decided to put the stripes on. There was an edition where the coupe came with them but mine was not. It was originally dark green. I decided to do a restomod.

I know it's off topic. But after over 3 years I finally got the mustang on the road. Plus it is the first time the kids have ridden in it