vozaday

Nice restoration and reproductions - lol

With the stripes, is it a Boss?

I know it's off topic. But after over 3 years I finally got the mustang on the road. Plus it is the first time the kids have ridden in it

Light bar showed up. Single row with 15w LEDs. That's over 15,000 lumens on a single row 20". Lol
I really like the beam pattern. Will be installing it my next days off.

Ryan

Ok, so are aftermarket intakes a myth. There is no easy answer.
I have done quite a bit of logging on a different platform with a couple different intake systems and driving around while under motion I have yet to see an increase in temps over ambient. Yes at a stop the temps will increase above ambient but as soon as you get moving the temp drops right back down. So like mentioned from a stop you are probably seeing a slight loss in power, but the loss in power would be like comparing driving your vehicle in 50F weather or 70F weather. Can you tell the difference? And that is just off the line before the air gets flowing.
But Sean is correct that they will increase your throttle response slightly as you have less restriction. Less restriction means the air will get moving quicker. But if you would even notice the increase in throttle response is hard to say.
Most 3rd party dynos I have seen on varying platforms show at most a 1-2 whp PEAK gain, which is well within the error factor of a dyno. Which shows that for total air flow the factory air box has enough for max power. Oh and race cars and other highly modified engines would need the extra size of an aftermarket intake, and if someone supercharged ours that would most likely be needed. But on a stock journey with only exhaust would not benefit much, other than slightly better throttle response.
So yes they do increase performance slightly, just not peak power. Most likely not enough to factor the price tag, but really who cares about price. Its all about the cool factor. Its all up to what you determine is worth it. And it all depends if you think the quicker throttle response is worth the slight power loss from a stop.

lol. I laugh because I've done this. On 2 vehicles to some extent. Back when I was 16 and couldn't afford a CAI and on my old truck for the Gotts Mod (removing the stock 3" to 1.5" restriction in the wheel fender).
Although I used black.

Ok, so are aftermarket intakes a myth. There is no easy answer.
I have done quite a bit of logging on a different platform with a couple different intake systems and driving around while under motion I have yet to see an increase in temps over ambient. Yes at a stop the temps will increase above ambient but as soon as you get moving the temp drops right back down. So like mentioned from a stop you are probably seeing a slight loss in power, but the loss in power would be like comparing driving your vehicle in 50F weather or 70F weather. Can you tell the difference? And that is just off the line before the air gets flowing.
But Sean is correct that they will increase your throttle response slightly as you have less restriction. Less restriction means the air will get moving quicker. But if you would even notice the increase in throttle response is hard to say.
Most 3rd party dynos I have seen on varying platforms show at most a 1-2 whp PEAK gain, which is well within the error factor of a dyno. Which shows that for total air flow the factory air box has enough for max power. Oh and race cars and other highly modified engines would need the extra size of an aftermarket intake, and if someone supercharged ours that would most likely be needed. But on a stock journey with only exhaust would not benefit much, other than slightly better throttle response.
So yes they do increase performance slightly, just not peak power. Most likely not enough to factor the price tag, but really who cares about price. Its all about the cool factor. Its all up to what you determine is worth it. And it all depends if you think the quicker throttle response is worth the slight power loss from a stop.

Here is how I have it set up in my truck and will have it set up in the Journey. First I must say that having the light bar controlled by the high beams is a very responsible thing to do. Here is why, when on a trail and you have your light bar on, you can shut off your high beams and bar at the flick of the high beam switch. Rather than them getting blinded as you flick off your high beams then find the switch for the light bar. Now I am not saying to have it only wired to your high beam and run it on the road. So this is what I did.
I tapped into the high beam wire at the headlight. From there I ran that line to a switch in the cab. From that switch it then went to a relay. The bar is of course powered through the relay. That way the switch is either automatic to the headlights or off ( for when you are on the highway). This will only work if you do not have DRL. If you have DRL you then need 2 relays ran in a series. One connected to the high beams and one to the low beams. The low beams one is because the DRL run off of the high beams, so for the bar to come on it would need both the low beams on (which come on at night) and the high beams to be on.
This prevents you from accidently leaving your light bar on during the day, as I see way too often on the highway, and allows you to quickly shut off your high beams and the light bar. So no accidently draining of battery or anything like that. This is why I believe this is a much more responsible setup.
Edit: If your laws allow more lights (which most only allow 2, so that option is out as we have a low beam and high beam on at the same time) then look into the RIGID dot approved lights. They will keep you legal as long as you are within how many lights you are allowed on at once. But they are quite expensive and IIRC the largest is a 10". Oh and of course use a fuse in the relay connection as meantioned above. Just make sure the relay can handle the dropped voltage of the PWM.

Ok, so are aftermarket intakes a myth. There is no easy answer.
I have done quite a bit of logging on a different platform with a couple different intake systems and driving around while under motion I have yet to see an increase in temps over ambient. Yes at a stop the temps will increase above ambient but as soon as you get moving the temp drops right back down. So like mentioned from a stop you are probably seeing a slight loss in power, but the loss in power would be like comparing driving your vehicle in 50F weather or 70F weather. Can you tell the difference? And that is just off the line before the air gets flowing.
But Sean is correct that they will increase your throttle response slightly as you have less restriction. Less restriction means the air will get moving quicker. But if you would even notice the increase in throttle response is hard to say.
Most 3rd party dynos I have seen on varying platforms show at most a 1-2 whp PEAK gain, which is well within the error factor of a dyno. Which shows that for total air flow the factory air box has enough for max power. Oh and race cars and other highly modified engines would need the extra size of an aftermarket intake, and if someone supercharged ours that would most likely be needed. But on a stock journey with only exhaust would not benefit much, other than slightly better throttle response.
So yes they do increase performance slightly, just not peak power. Most likely not enough to factor the price tag, but really who cares about price. Its all about the cool factor. Its all up to what you determine is worth it. And it all depends if you think the quicker throttle response is worth the slight power loss from a stop.

Here is how I have it set up in my truck and will have it set up in the Journey. First I must say that having the light bar controlled by the high beams is a very responsible thing to do. Here is why, when on a trail and you have your light bar on, you can shut off your high beams and bar at the flick of the high beam switch. Rather than them getting blinded as you flick off your high beams then find the switch for the light bar. Now I am not saying to have it only wired to your high beam and run it on the road. So this is what I did.
I tapped into the high beam wire at the headlight. From there I ran that line to a switch in the cab. From that switch it then went to a relay. The bar is of course powered through the relay. That way the switch is either automatic to the headlights or off ( for when you are on the highway). This will only work if you do not have DRL. If you have DRL you then need 2 relays ran in a series. One connected to the high beams and one to the low beams. The low beams one is because the DRL run off of the high beams, so for the bar to come on it would need both the low beams on (which come on at night) and the high beams to be on.
This prevents you from accidently leaving your light bar on during the day, as I see way too often on the highway, and allows you to quickly shut off your high beams and the light bar. So no accidently draining of battery or anything like that. This is why I believe this is a much more responsible setup.
Edit: If your laws allow more lights (which most only allow 2, so that option is out as we have a low beam and high beam on at the same time) then look into the RIGID dot approved lights. They will keep you legal as long as you are within how many lights you are allowed on at once. But they are quite expensive and IIRC the largest is a 10". Oh and of course use a fuse in the relay connection as meantioned above. Just make sure the relay can handle the dropped voltage of the PWM.

A GoPro is a good idea, I'm sure I have an old one sitting around. Only reason why I want the dash camera style is because of the motion detection while the vehicle is parked.

Not to sure why I posted that in here lol. Obviously not paying attention. My bad.

They are horrible for updating their charts. Took them almost a year to add the f150 ecoboost to their page even though it could tune it. But I could be mistaken.Edit: looks like the list you found had more up to date info than the one I was looking at.

Looks like HP Tuners now supports the Dodge Journey. So at least we know that tuning would be available for a supercharger, or even without.

Do you have a capacitor? If so is it plugged in backwards? Maybe it isn't big enough?

Here is a thread for random off topic pictures you took. I'll start it off.
Some fun in the snow, when there isn't enough snow for a sled.

I believe that is the only difference. I don't know how the canbus part plays with the Dodges though. The capacitor should be wired into the "in" side of the relay. It's a decent size relay though, what do you have laying around?

That is why I chose the BlackVue with magic power adapter. The camera will stay on even when the vehicle is off. It will eventually shut off when the adapter senses the battery voltage has dropped to a set voltage. The adapter also has an on off switch and allows a timer, so fully customizable as to how you want the camera to record. But it records motion, 5 seconds before the person walks by (or vehicle hits you) and 55 seconds after only with the adapter. That is why I paid the little bit extra. I almost got hit last week and it would have been tough explaining.

All it has to do is save me one deductible on any of my vehicles then to purchase the two cameras was well worth the investment.

That is why I chose the BlackVue with magic power adapter. The camera will stay on even when the vehicle is off. It will eventually shut off when the adapter senses the battery voltage has dropped to a set voltage. The adapter also has an on off switch and allows a timer, so fully customizable as to how you want the camera to record. But it records motion, 5 seconds before the person walks by (or vehicle hits you) and 55 seconds after only with the adapter. That is why I paid the little bit extra. I almost got hit last week and it would have been tough explaining.

Mine are in toront about 8 hours away. My guess Friday I'll have them. Doing a retro to my fogs with my old 6.0

Don't think it needs to be the Dodge specific model, but I didn't really ask...

I'll start working on that now.

Order me a set to.