Dusty256

Warped rotors , something missed during alignment such as worn tie rod ends and coupler at the rack. Control arm bushings ... Struts ...

Reminds me of my old 70 super bee.. Wish my journey could sound like it. Loud mouth thrush cut off under the seats ...very loud ...

Warped rotors , something missed during alignment such as worn tie rod ends and coupler at the rack. Control arm bushings ... Struts ...

Wow dark tint , I thought the tint on mine was dark. My back windows are about that dark and fronts are a few shades lighter ...

What sensor did they take out ? The tire pressure monitor ? Tire pressure service kits are not that expensive .

I do believe the wheel speed sensors are not part of the hub. It shows up as a separate part on rock auto . Look one the back of the whole hub rotor brake assembly you should see it . Also it would help a lot to put a code reader on the obd2 port to point to which hub is tripping the code.
Look at rockauto and you will find a listing for the part along with a good picture of it . You could also ask the auto parts store to show what it looks like .

the lines looked cleaner in black . the white pillers gives it a old style station wagon look.

like the black better

You need to load test the battery with the car off . Reading voltage will give a close idea of the battery state of charge but load testing will tell you if its good or not . Any local auto parts stores will be happy to load test the battery .
19v is way way to high . Are you sure of that readimg

If it sat on the dealers lot a long time before it sold and being a older truck I would just change out the battery

like the black better

It's new battery time .. 11.8 volts with the car off is a dead battery .. Will cause all kinds of problems

You need to load test the battery with the car off . Reading voltage will give a close idea of the battery state of charge but load testing will tell you if its good or not . Any local auto parts stores will be happy to load test the battery .
19v is way way to high . Are you sure of that readimg

It's new battery time .. 11.8 volts with the car off is a dead battery .. Will cause all kinds of problems

If it sat on the dealers lot a long time before it sold and being a older truck I would just change out the battery

Reminds me of my old 70 super bee.. Wish my journey could sound like it. Loud mouth thrush cut off under the seats ...very loud ...

I have a 2009 Dodge Journey SXT. New radio installed and recently the battery has enough juice to turn on the interior lights; but, it won't turn over. There are no error codes to report to mechanics. They had it after the first instance and couldn't rplixate the problem. Two days later, it needed another jump still no error codes. 6 days ago I had 2 engine lights: ESP Bas and an icon that looks like a car and tire tracks. Yesterday, the truck wouldn't turn over and pop-a-lock double jumped it to get it running: cables on the connectors via their box and cables on the battery from his battery and it worked! Just dropped off vehicle to mechanic to hopefully recreate the problem. If they hadnt told me to drop it off with a free loaner, I would have paid for a full engine diagnostic tomorrow. Any ideas on what wrong? It only has 68k miles, I bought it a month ago and so I'm a little concerned on how to handle

Why not just change the battery

has the battery been checked any parts store can do it for you. no mention of age of the battery either. i would be replacing that before any thing else is done especially if its more than 2-3 yrs old..all these new cars have electronics that draw low power when turned off and make sure you don't have a rear light on that you might not be noticing. also make sure all cable connections are clean and tight....

There are so many electronics in the DJ - they do not tolerate even slightly low voltage. BAS = Brake Assist System, the car and tracks = traction control. You may have a bad wheel sensor that is draining the battery. Or, with these new batteries, one day they work; next day, nothing. There may be a bad cell in the battery.

Change the battery , I bet it's the original one...

Death wobble ? Running 15,000 miles like that ....how bad .

With Wagner termo quiet brake pads and new after market rotors I am amazed on how strong the brakes are now. Much much more stopping power. Pulled the back brakes and they look good ..before the brakes where so so .. I had checked them before they locked up and saw new pads but did not notice the rotors. Looks like the rotors must have been turned a few times and where original.
Now just running through a few things that buying a used car surprises you with . Now it's a small shimmy in the stearing wheel around 55 which stops at 60. Might have lost a wheel weight messing about with the tire on the side of the road as it was not there before the brake job. I double checked my work by pulling everything apart and and making sure everything is tight. The passages side seems to have a little wear on the tie rods and not sure if it's inside or outside but plan on changing both on both sides of the truck and getting a alignment performed again. The dealer where I bought it said they just did amour wheel alignment but don't see how the miss the tie rods.
In regards to autozone I have had no luck with them . Bought a dura last alternator for my old deville and it last six months . Bought some sway bar bushings and end links and they last four months before I had to replace them with Orem parts.

Yes autozone is junk

Think it was the missing clip . Lots of wear on the pad that it's was missing.. Took a little 30 mile drive and the brakes feel better. I noticed a drop in Rams need to keep the truck at 50 . Before I fixed the barks issue I had to keep the revs up a little past the 2k. Mark on the tach or about 2100 to 2200 rpm . Now it's below the 2k mark or about 1800 or so guess that side was really dragging ..
Hope this takes car of it , I used Wagner pads and rotors and purchased the higher end semi-metlaic pads.
Guess Sunday I will check out the rears