bfurth

I can't speak for the location of the antenna, but the TPM Module should be located in the driver side rear wheel housing protected by the splash shield.  It's connected to the electrical system via a single wiring harness and attached to the body via two nuts mounted on a pair of studs.
 
As a final bit of troubleshooting - are you absolutely certain that the pressure displayed for the front wheels matches reality?  Take a weekend morning, set all 4 wheels to 36 PSI, and drive for 10 minutes.  Park, wait 20 minutes, and decrease the pressure in one of the recognized wheels (at 29 PSI, the warning light would kick in, but all you're looking for is a substantial change in recorded pressure from that wheel).  Drive another 10 minutes.  Does that wheel show the correct pressure.  If measured reality and module reported pressures don't match, just replace the module.  The next step, although more expensive, might be to replace all four pressure sensors/valve stems.  6 years is about the expected lifespan of those batteries.
 
The description I'm reading regarding that module is that it is self contained.  As best as I can tell (confirm with your local Fiat dealer), the part number is 56029542AC.  There are two re-learn procedures that will work to recognize the new module, should you choose to install it.  The first requires a scan tool (unlikely that you have one).  The second is much less complicated - keep your Journey off for 20 minutes, then start it and drive above 15 MPH for at least 10 minutes.
 
As for installation, it's painfully simple and as obvious as it seems once you look at it.  Remove the splash shield (presumably, you know how to remove plastic rivets in such a way as to render them re-usable), remove the wiring harness, remove the nuts that attach the sensor, re-attach everything.  Finish waiting 20 minutes, then drive.
 
Good luck!

I can't speak for the location of the antenna, but the TPM Module should be located in the driver side rear wheel housing protected by the splash shield.  It's connected to the electrical system via a single wiring harness and attached to the body via two nuts mounted on a pair of studs.
 
As a final bit of troubleshooting - are you absolutely certain that the pressure displayed for the front wheels matches reality?  Take a weekend morning, set all 4 wheels to 36 PSI, and drive for 10 minutes.  Park, wait 20 minutes, and decrease the pressure in one of the recognized wheels (at 29 PSI, the warning light would kick in, but all you're looking for is a substantial change in recorded pressure from that wheel).  Drive another 10 minutes.  Does that wheel show the correct pressure.  If measured reality and module reported pressures don't match, just replace the module.  The next step, although more expensive, might be to replace all four pressure sensors/valve stems.  6 years is about the expected lifespan of those batteries.
 
The description I'm reading regarding that module is that it is self contained.  As best as I can tell (confirm with your local Fiat dealer), the part number is 56029542AC.  There are two re-learn procedures that will work to recognize the new module, should you choose to install it.  The first requires a scan tool (unlikely that you have one).  The second is much less complicated - keep your Journey off for 20 minutes, then start it and drive above 15 MPH for at least 10 minutes.
 
As for installation, it's painfully simple and as obvious as it seems once you look at it.  Remove the splash shield (presumably, you know how to remove plastic rivets in such a way as to render them re-usable), remove the wiring harness, remove the nuts that attach the sensor, re-attach everything.  Finish waiting 20 minutes, then drive.
 
Good luck!

Almost 17,000 miles in (yeah, my annual drive is 6,600...) and I just finished maintenance round 3.  Everything on the 2.4L engine is so EASY to get to!!!  Other than some minor annoyances (one of which is probably covered under a recall that I haven't gotten a notice for yet), I can't complain.  Yeah, the 2.4 could do with a bit more power of the 3.6, but I still say I knew what I was getting, and it wasn't worth the extra cost for me even for the handful of times I felt like it really could have used it.

Almost 17,000 miles in (yeah, my annual drive is 6,600...) and I just finished maintenance round 3.  Everything on the 2.4L engine is so EASY to get to!!!  Other than some minor annoyances (one of which is probably covered under a recall that I haven't gotten a notice for yet), I can't complain.  Yeah, the 2.4 could do with a bit more power of the 3.6, but I still say I knew what I was getting, and it wasn't worth the extra cost for me even for the handful of times I felt like it really could have used it.

Even my old dumb phone had issues with that USB port.  I ended up putting a flash drive in it with music (works great!) and have a 12V charger in the port in the console.  I switched the fuse for that port so that it is on only when the ignition is in ACC or Run.  Everything stays plugged in, no power drain, I stopped worrying about it.

Even my old dumb phone had issues with that USB port.  I ended up putting a flash drive in it with music (works great!) and have a 12V charger in the port in the console.  I switched the fuse for that port so that it is on only when the ignition is in ACC or Run.  Everything stays plugged in, no power drain, I stopped worrying about it.

As my signature states - anything you do with your car is your fault.

Unless you see a puddle of transmission fluid, there's nothing to worry about.  I've got a 62TE transmission in my 2010 Town and Country (same as is in the Journey).  The only times I've ever seen fluid anywhere near the outside of the transmission where when it need to have the final drive seals replaced (under powertrain warranty), the transmission cooler lines failed (at 120,000 miles), and each time I've replaced power steering lines (steering system uses ATF+4).  The transmission is sealed.  Check for obvious signs of leaks, but otherwise don't worry about it.

20 Ft-Lbs - that's all you need to install the drain plug.  Stop letting people use an impact wrench on it!

If it's a custom seat cover, just change the manner in which the cover is installed.  Just don't have the fabricator close the top seam before installation.  Fit the cover over the head rest with the top of the seat inside out, stitch the seam, then fit it around the seat back.  Custom cover, custom fit, end of problem.  It will just cost a little more since it will have to be hand-stitched on site.
 
Also, if by "custom" you mean "after market," the solution still applies.  Just rip the seam out at the top, then follow the directions as posted.

Chrysler 3.5L = Chrysler 4.0L, just under-bored.  Belt driven timing (instead of chain, like in the 2.4L and the 3.6L Pentastar) - that's your big potential issue.  And also the fact that 2009 was the first production year for the Journey, so it had a higher instance of recalls than later years.
 
This advice holds true in electronics and vehicles (which are basically gasoline-powered computers at this point) - NEVER* buy the first production run!  Be wary of the second.  3rd and later will usually have substantially fewer problems.  2013 was the third year with the Pentastar engine - I haven't heard of any issues from Journey or Grand Caravan/Town & Counntry owners with that engine after the cylinder head problem of 2011.  Production run counts start over again when the engine changes; cosmetic adjustments don't count for much.
 
*Unless you're buying a performance car, like the Demon.  Then buy it if you can afford it and the potential headaches.

It should be .043".
 
The actual part, from everything I've ever been able to find (without actually taking mine out or calling a dealer), is an NGK ZFR5F11 plug.
 
The plug is copper and should be replaced every 30,000 miles.  You could replace it with platinum or iridium, but the engine may not perform as well.  The price difference is also negligible when you take into account that platinum and iridium could last 2 - 3x longer, but also cost 2 - 3x as much as copper.  Stick with copper.  3 auto manufacturers had input in building the 2.4L engine - I'd like to think that many engineers have somewhat of a clue as to what they're doing.  It's also a grand total of 10 bolts/nuts to remove (4 plugs, 4 ignition coils, 1 engine cover bolt, 1 negative battery terminal) for a change.  If it takes you more than 30 minutes, you did something wrong.

sometimes on difficult repaired or maintenance its best to go by with dealership service center and that way should there be a problem or question its on them, yes i know it will cost you extra $$$ but might be worth it in my mind....i do all my little jobs like oil changes and such but i did pay the dealer to do the transmission fluid change and i did do it early but wanted it on record since i bought the max yrs and miles warranty,, just my 2 cents worth...... 

I can't find information specific to the 2010 (or 2009).  For 2011, it would seem that an engine removal is not necessary, but you do need to partially disconnect a few engine mounting bolts and the fore-aft crossmember.  This is a pretty involved repair, and I wouldn't attempt it without explicit documentation and an extensive tool kit.  Preferably one that includes a lift - a steering gear is heavy and you may need a second person to help maneuver it into place.  That's difficult to do when the vehicle is less than a foot off the ground.

I concur with the electrical connectivity being the source of your issue.  If you know how to work with electrical wiring, go for it. I can't find any direct information regarding the wiring harness involved.  If you choose to tackle it yourself, you'll have to pay close attention to what you're doing.  Use sensible precautions when working with electrical wiring (don't touch live wires, disconnect the battery, etc.)
 
If you aren't sure how to work with electrical wiring in a safe manner, pay the shop.  No sense in doing more damage on your own dime when the shop assumes liability if they screw up.

When you use the floor jack, the correct lift point on the Journey for the front end is NOT the pinch weld.  Use the scissor jack for that only in a road-side emergency (unless you like bending pinch welds...)
 
The proper spot is about 4-6 inches inside the pinch weld.  I haven't been under it enough to remember what's bolted there (it might be the cross member mounting point, main point being it's structurally sound) - you'll know it when you see it.  It's a tight angle to get it, but you can get a floor jack handle to come up between the wheel and fender so you can get a full stroke on the jack.  I then typically put the stands just on the inside of the pinch weld - there's a rubberized coating where the emergency jack attaches so it keeps from damaging paint and getting down to bare metal.  I also put a hocky puck on the jack saddle to keep from any metal-on-metal contact.
 

Found this image from this video (not mine) - that is what I use as my jack point for the front.  Best I can tell from the manual I've got access to, this is the correct front lift point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBI_DeyQCWk
 

I keep a tarp in the rear storage bin.  You never know when you need to hide a body... I mean, change a flat and haul a dirty wet wheel around!

I changed the fuel pump on my old 2003 Malibu about 3 years ago.  The fuel in the tank was as clear as what's in my gas can for my lawn mower.  And I just purchased that can this year and have only filled it once.  Unless you've had a problem with the gas cap, or some other fuel system fault code, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I changed the fuel pump on my old 2003 Malibu about 3 years ago.  The fuel in the tank was as clear as what's in my gas can for my lawn mower.  And I just purchased that can this year and have only filled it once.  Unless you've had a problem with the gas cap, or some other fuel system fault code, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I keep a tarp in the rear storage bin.  You never know when you need to hide a body... I mean, change a flat and haul a dirty wet wheel around!

It's a size issue.  The 2 row Journey has a rear cargo deck that's about 3 feet by 3 - 3 1/2 feet.  The 3 row Journey "loses" that full cargo area (when the seats are in use) and has a small storage bin (about 8 inches long, maybe 6 inches deep, runs the width of the tailgate opening).  A panel placed on top of that could become a hazard (it would be able to fly over the 2nd and front row seats in a collision), much less stay put over speed bumps.  It's the same kind of latch that's used on the 2nd row bins and on the Grand Caravan/T&C middle row storage area.

Every vehicle I've owned (Ford, Chevy, Chrysler) has gotten to at least 130,000 miles before repairs got to a point where it wasn't cost effective to keep flushing money.  And the only one that went that early was a vehicle with a known defect that had been subject to a class action lawsuit over the materials involved (GM 3.1L engine, Dex-Cool, and a poor material choice for the lower intake manifold gasket), and at that, I wasn't nearly as careful about researching vehicles before buying one, nor was I adept at any kind of repair work.  If the engine is designed well (the "worst" engine ever used in a Journey is the 3.5L, which is still a fairly solid engine), the vehicle will last.  Equally important is a history of proper maintenance.  Any vehicle will last as long as you take care of it.  When buying a used vehicle, any information you can get on its previous maintenance and repair history is invaluable.  A car with complete maintenance records will also probably be more expensive.
 
As for the price tag - sorry to say it, but good luck finding a crossover or SUV for under $5,000 without a very large number for mileage.  I did a search for my zip code, and there is 1 Journey within 500 miles under $5,000 with under 100,000 miles.  And you couldn't pay me enough to buy another FCA vehicle prior to 2011 (everything got at least a facelift after the 2010 model year).  It's also the 3.5L engine, which means unless you have convincing evidence that the timing belt has been replaced, that's priority number 1 after buying it.
 
As far as reliability of domestic versus other manufacturers:
 
My first car was a former fleet vehicle (95 Taurus) with 120,000 miles on it.  I put 20,000 miles on it in 2 years (I only paid $2,000 for the car).  My sister got it from me for $200, put a few hundred into it, and drove it for another 2 years.  It had about 160,000 on it when it was totaled.
 
My second car was bought brand new (05 Cavalier).  It lasted me 4 years (had to get a bigger car) when I sold it to my sister for $5,000.  It finally died at 150,000+ miles and about 12 years after manufacture.  Not bad for a "cheap" economy box.
 
My third car was bought from a friend who had bought it used (03 Malibu).  I had it from 2009 until I bought my Journey in 2015.  I bought it with about 60,000 miles on it.  I put 70,000 more before the head gasket started to go.  So, another 130,000+ on a domestic.  With horrendous gasket material design that leads directly to premature engine failure, proper maintenance or not.
 
My wife's van (10 Town and Country) has 120,000+ and is, by all appearances, in good mechanical condition.  I'm hoping to get another 4 years out of it, minimum.  Just long enough to pay off my Journey.  We bought it used around 38,000 miles and have put 80,000+ on it of our own.  I've done all of the maintenance on it since we bought it, as well as most of the repairs.  It eats brakes and power steering hoses, but those a problems I can live with.
 
My Journey (2015) has under 16,000 miles on it.  I drive 8 miles round trip for work - I expect to own this one long enough to teach my kids to drive (oldest is 7, so another 9 years before I can even start that goal).
 
TL/DR - take care of your stuff, it will last longer.
 

Every vehicle I've owned (Ford, Chevy, Chrysler) has gotten to at least 130,000 miles before repairs got to a point where it wasn't cost effective to keep flushing money.  And the only one that went that early was a vehicle with a known defect that had been subject to a class action lawsuit over the materials involved (GM 3.1L engine, Dex-Cool, and a poor material choice for the lower intake manifold gasket), and at that, I wasn't nearly as careful about researching vehicles before buying one, nor was I adept at any kind of repair work.  If the engine is designed well (the "worst" engine ever used in a Journey is the 3.5L, which is still a fairly solid engine), the vehicle will last.  Equally important is a history of proper maintenance.  Any vehicle will last as long as you take care of it.  When buying a used vehicle, any information you can get on its previous maintenance and repair history is invaluable.  A car with complete maintenance records will also probably be more expensive.
 
As for the price tag - sorry to say it, but good luck finding a crossover or SUV for under $5,000 without a very large number for mileage.  I did a search for my zip code, and there is 1 Journey within 500 miles under $5,000 with under 100,000 miles.  And you couldn't pay me enough to buy another FCA vehicle prior to 2011 (everything got at least a facelift after the 2010 model year).  It's also the 3.5L engine, which means unless you have convincing evidence that the timing belt has been replaced, that's priority number 1 after buying it.
 
As far as reliability of domestic versus other manufacturers:
 
My first car was a former fleet vehicle (95 Taurus) with 120,000 miles on it.  I put 20,000 miles on it in 2 years (I only paid $2,000 for the car).  My sister got it from me for $200, put a few hundred into it, and drove it for another 2 years.  It had about 160,000 on it when it was totaled.
 
My second car was bought brand new (05 Cavalier).  It lasted me 4 years (had to get a bigger car) when I sold it to my sister for $5,000.  It finally died at 150,000+ miles and about 12 years after manufacture.  Not bad for a "cheap" economy box.
 
My third car was bought from a friend who had bought it used (03 Malibu).  I had it from 2009 until I bought my Journey in 2015.  I bought it with about 60,000 miles on it.  I put 70,000 more before the head gasket started to go.  So, another 130,000+ on a domestic.  With horrendous gasket material design that leads directly to premature engine failure, proper maintenance or not.
 
My wife's van (10 Town and Country) has 120,000+ and is, by all appearances, in good mechanical condition.  I'm hoping to get another 4 years out of it, minimum.  Just long enough to pay off my Journey.  We bought it used around 38,000 miles and have put 80,000+ on it of our own.  I've done all of the maintenance on it since we bought it, as well as most of the repairs.  It eats brakes and power steering hoses, but those a problems I can live with.
 
My Journey (2015) has under 16,000 miles on it.  I drive 8 miles round trip for work - I expect to own this one long enough to teach my kids to drive (oldest is 7, so another 9 years before I can even start that goal).
 
TL/DR - take care of your stuff, it will last longer.
 

To answer the question about maintaining the warranty by only using dealer service: In short, probably not.
 
The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act of 1975 prohibits a car manufacturer (and others, but this part is pertinent here) from imposing service with exact parts and from a specific location (read: at the dealer, using on OEM parts) UNLESS they pay for it.  So, if that dealer is actually telling people this, they are either violating federal law, or they are offering to perform all powertrain maintenance (oil and filter changes, transmission fluid drain/fill, spark plug changes for 2.4L, engine air filter, etc.) for no cost for the duration of the powertrain warranty.
 
That act specifically allows you to perform your own maintenance with appropriate parts of your choosing (but they better be compatible - no jury rigging).  Keep your receipts, and know that the dealer is lying to you.

The ABS recall includes replacing the ABS module (and a few other components) if needed.  If you just recently had the recall performed, there is a good chance of corroded wires that finally gave up after being handled by a mechanic.  I would press the dealership to read the code at their expense because of the high chance of something having been damaged as a result of their repair and deteriorated ABS module, which would still be covered under the recall.  If the ABS module has failed, then it failed because it was left open to potential corrosion for years before FIAT opened the recall to have it corrected.
 
If the code is not related directly to the wiring harness or the ABS module, then you're on your own - it would be low brake fluid (possibly because it just needs pads) or wheel speed sensors (which are part of the wheel bearing/hub assembly).  There is a write up on this site that has the steps for replacing wheel hubs in the DIY section (I know it's there because I wrote it...)