bfurth

Due to the need to reprogram the TCM, this is not a DIY job.  You don't have the tools, nor are they cost effective to purchase and then DIY this repair.  Have a mechanic do it, or trade it in and get a newer vehicle.  Those are basically your two viable options.
 
Edit:
 
To be much more clear: you NEED a StarScan tool to complete the job.  It cannot be done without one.  That tool, on EBay, will run you nearly $2,000.  That doesn't include access to a data source for the firmware that will be loaded on the TCM.  In the US, there is also a legal requirement to physically document on the vehicle the date and mileage at the change whenever the TCM is changed because the odometer will no longer necessarily be accurate.
 
So, really, you can't do this repair at home.  It won't work.

Due to the need to reprogram the TCM, this is not a DIY job.  You don't have the tools, nor are they cost effective to purchase and then DIY this repair.  Have a mechanic do it, or trade it in and get a newer vehicle.  Those are basically your two viable options.
 
Edit:
 
To be much more clear: you NEED a StarScan tool to complete the job.  It cannot be done without one.  That tool, on EBay, will run you nearly $2,000.  That doesn't include access to a data source for the firmware that will be loaded on the TCM.  In the US, there is also a legal requirement to physically document on the vehicle the date and mileage at the change whenever the TCM is changed because the odometer will no longer necessarily be accurate.
 
So, really, you can't do this repair at home.  It won't work.

There's only one light for the transmission range indicator.  That you have two lights on indicates either the P and N are extraordinarily dirty, or there is something blocking them from underneath.  You'll need to disassemble the console to identify the root cause.
 
To remove the console cover:
Place shifter in Park
Disconnect negative battery cable
Remove shifter knob
Open the console lid
Remove coin holder and bin liner
Use a trim stick (plastic, don't use metal tools) to disconnect and remove the shifter bezel (extends up to the back of the console lid)
Remove the four bolts at the bottom of the console storage bin
Disconnect the wiring harness located near the shifter
Disconnect the USB harness located in front of the shifter
Remove the floor console
 
To remove/replace the light:
rotate the light socket 30 degrees counterclockwise and pull straight down
 
Installation of all is reverse of removal.
 
Given that you bought the vehicle a week ago, you could also ask the dealership to check it out for you.  That seems like it ought to be a basic safety issue.  For example, the Maryland safety inspection for sale/registration of a used vehicle requires that the gear range select indicator is accurate (PRND switch indicator properly shows what gear you have actually selected, and the transmission agrees with you).  I would argue that the ability to tell this in the dark is critical.  That means the light should work as designed.

I don't even need to hear the audio - mine has done the same thing since day 1.  The variable cam shafts for the 2.4L are operated by hydraulic pressure using engine oil and it is powered by the oil pump.  When you shut off the engine, you will hear a few clicks as pressure dissipates and the cam returns to it's off position.
 
There is literally nothing to be worried about.
 
*This is, of course, assuming that the clicks are faint and sound like a spring being wound one turn too far.

Of what use is a light that is under the hood?  If you're popping the hood because something is wrong on the side of the road or in an empty parking lot, there's a good chance it's power related.  If it's not, it soon will be by running an unfocused light with enough strength to clearly see the engine bay.
 
Get a good LED head lamp and keep it in the glove box or in the storage bin with the scissor jack.

That would be the first time I've ever heard of that.  It's a piece of injection molded plastic - not exactly something that screams "high value."
 
Find a better lube shop - they forgot to put the cap back on.
 
Also - take the time to clean (not with water, but careful use of solvents) the valve cover, exhaust manifold, head, and block of all that burned oil.  If you develop a leak later on, it will make things easier to find.  Even better, if you last had your oil changed recently, go back to the shop that did it and ask them to clean it.
 
And remember - any time you have someone else do work on your car, verify parts are in place before and after the work is completed!

Of what use is a light that is under the hood?  If you're popping the hood because something is wrong on the side of the road or in an empty parking lot, there's a good chance it's power related.  If it's not, it soon will be by running an unfocused light with enough strength to clearly see the engine bay.
 
Get a good LED head lamp and keep it in the glove box or in the storage bin with the scissor jack.

Try this video.  Also, ignore the model years - they're wrong on the early end, and don't matter since the 3.6L is the same for all Journeys that have one.  You don't "need" any special tools (you should use a torque wrench, and most DIY parts stores should be happy to rent you one).  You can definitely save $140 by doing it on your own, IF you want to spend the potentially 2+ hours figuring it out.  It's always a question of what your time is worth to you.  And whether or not you trust the information gleaned from this video.
 
I'd also recommend checking your local library system to see if they subscribe to any kind of online service manuals.  There's a decent chance they do, in which case you have much more detailed information available to you than you realize.
 

Those rubber hangers actually serve a useful purpose (vibration dampening/noise reduction).  Now if only there were a way to install one with a clamp instead of a Freudian effort...
Some variation of this:

There is a world of difference between the 3.6 and 2.4.  The 2.4 is "Remove engine beauty cover, unbolt coil packs, remove coil packs, remove spark plugs, installation is reverse. The end."
 
3.6 requires removal of the intake manifold and temporary re-routing of several cables in the process.  It is physically impossible to get to them without removing the intake.  The plugs are RER8ZWYCB4 (iridium plugs, they sell for about $7/each, you need 6).  $180 for that engine, with parts, labor, and a 10% shop fee is not unreasonable.  It's about an hour long job for a well trained mechanic ($120/hour in labor, $40 in parts, +10% shop fees = $176, local tax laws could easily account for the other $10).

This may be a bit late to the party, but for future reference:
 
The 2.4L calls for:
 
NGK ZFR5F11 (copper) plugs with a .043" (1.1mm) gap, torqued to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N*m), changed every 30,000 miles (age is irrelevant).
 
Those numbers appear to apply to all 2.4L North America builds of the Dodge Journey (numbers are accurate and unchanged from 2009 through 2014, no reason to assume they changed for 2015 and later since it's still the same engine).

They screwed up when they bled the brakes.  My first guess would be they need to bleed the ABS module.
 
Bleed brakes
Computer involved procedure for ABS bleed
Bleed brakes again
 
And the shop you took it to is on the hook for all of it.  They should have done that when they had that much of your brake system disassembled.

They screwed up when they bled the brakes.  My first guess would be they need to bleed the ABS module.
 
Bleed brakes
Computer involved procedure for ABS bleed
Bleed brakes again
 
And the shop you took it to is on the hook for all of it.  They should have done that when they had that much of your brake system disassembled.

They screwed up when they bled the brakes.  My first guess would be they need to bleed the ABS module.
 
Bleed brakes
Computer involved procedure for ABS bleed
Bleed brakes again
 
And the shop you took it to is on the hook for all of it.  They should have done that when they had that much of your brake system disassembled.

They screwed up when they bled the brakes.  My first guess would be they need to bleed the ABS module.
 
Bleed brakes
Computer involved procedure for ABS bleed
Bleed brakes again
 
And the shop you took it to is on the hook for all of it.  They should have done that when they had that much of your brake system disassembled.

Brass is still a copper/zinc alloy.  While it is closer on the galvanic chart to aluminum than straight copper, it is only closer by one spot (go figure - copper alloys are all right next to each other...)
 
The aluminum Y splitting would have to be due to a bad weld.  If you really want it done perfectly, it should be forged and machined (no seams = no obvious weak points).
 
While YouTube has a lot of good information, don't take everything literally.  All of those videos of brass T's for the Town and Country are... less than properly educated on galvanic corrosion.  Again - anti-freeze has corrosion inhibitors, but do you really want to artificially increase the risk of destroying your cooling system?  Without a brass/copper fitting having been tested with the factory-fill coolant, I wouldn't put it anywhere near that system.

Don't use copper!  Galvanic corrosion of aluminum is highly likely when it is in contact with copper.  Yes, there is some level of protection against this with the anti-freeze, but I wouldn't take that risk.  The radiator, engine block, and head are all aluminum.  I wouldn't put copper anywhere near that if I could avoid it.
 
That being said - is yours a 3.5L?  There were a lot of similar issues with the 2008-2010 Grand Caravan/Town & Country heater return hoses.  The plastic tends to crack given it's proximity to the exhaust pipe - it's not shielded well enough.  A few people have had aluminum Ys made and cut the existing hoses to fit with the new Y (you may need some adapters, heater hose, and worm-drive clamps to hack this fix together).  Once they made the fix, they've never had an issue again.

Don't use copper!  Galvanic corrosion of aluminum is highly likely when it is in contact with copper.  Yes, there is some level of protection against this with the anti-freeze, but I wouldn't take that risk.  The radiator, engine block, and head are all aluminum.  I wouldn't put copper anywhere near that if I could avoid it.
 
That being said - is yours a 3.5L?  There were a lot of similar issues with the 2008-2010 Grand Caravan/Town & Country heater return hoses.  The plastic tends to crack given it's proximity to the exhaust pipe - it's not shielded well enough.  A few people have had aluminum Ys made and cut the existing hoses to fit with the new Y (you may need some adapters, heater hose, and worm-drive clamps to hack this fix together).  Once they made the fix, they've never had an issue again.

Don't use copper!  Galvanic corrosion of aluminum is highly likely when it is in contact with copper.  Yes, there is some level of protection against this with the anti-freeze, but I wouldn't take that risk.  The radiator, engine block, and head are all aluminum.  I wouldn't put copper anywhere near that if I could avoid it.
 
That being said - is yours a 3.5L?  There were a lot of similar issues with the 2008-2010 Grand Caravan/Town & Country heater return hoses.  The plastic tends to crack given it's proximity to the exhaust pipe - it's not shielded well enough.  A few people have had aluminum Ys made and cut the existing hoses to fit with the new Y (you may need some adapters, heater hose, and worm-drive clamps to hack this fix together).  Once they made the fix, they've never had an issue again.

It's either a bad fuel cap, or a bad fill port (most likely).  Next time you fill up, check underneath the rear driver side to see if you find any signs of a leak in the filler tube.  If not, replace the gas cap (only a few dollars) - that will almost certainly fix the issue.  If that doesn't fix it, then you'll need to do a few more drastic things, including a more thorough inspection of the filler tube and/or dropping the fuel tank and inspecting for obvious signs of damage.

It's a vehicle with an aftermarket solution for a tablet mount - it's going to wobble.  The seat will move slightly just by you getting in.  As long as the tablet doesn't fall out of the mount, it's sufficient.
 

My Blue Streak with chrome package doesn't show up very often.  I think I've seen 3 of them in the wild since I bought mine.
 
And yeah, dealerships are hit or miss.  You'd think they'd be more "hit" given that they tend to charge 20% more per hour than independent shops.  That cost needs to be justified.  In many cases, it isn't.
 
The Journey is an affordable, reasonably fuel efficient people hauler with a sporty-ish appearance.  What's not to like?  It fits its market (the "I don't want a(nother) van, I can't afford/don't want a gigantic Urban Assault Vehicle" group) well.

It's a vehicle with an aftermarket solution for a tablet mount - it's going to wobble.  The seat will move slightly just by you getting in.  As long as the tablet doesn't fall out of the mount, it's sufficient.
 

A cursory Google search led to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Headrest-Tablet-Holder-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B00585CLTU
 
You supply the tablet.  I'm sure you can find less expensive if you try.

It's more like the kind of gasket you see on a door frame.  It's on the hood, directly in line with the opening for the intake.