bfurth

My 2015 runs at (typically) 195 +/- a few degrees for coolant (which is expected, considering the thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat), engine oil is reported at 205 +/- depending on ambient weather (tops at around 210 in the summer in Baltimore) running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20, and the transmission runs at whatever it runs (the bar is always in the middle, so I don't pay much attention to it beyond that).  All of this is with no towing, and as many as 5 passengers (one adult, 4 kids in car seats).
 
If you're in very hilly/mountainous roads, the oil is going to run a little hotter than mine.  Keep an eye on oil consumption/coolant-oil mixing (you should know what that looks like now) and for temperature spikes.  Anything that isn't a smooth transition could indicate a problem.

Don't take the Journey off-roading. That should fix some of your problems.

And that weight limit is why I'll never buy a roof top tent. I'd rather get a cargo pod (already have it) and cross bars (need to buy them for the Journey) and then just put the seats in the back down. It's big enough to fit a twin mattress with both rows folded down.  If I'm sleeping in the car, then it's without kids, and this storage method might be enough. I prefer close quarters for sleeping arrangements with my wife.
 
Otherwise, I'll set up the "portable apartment."  This is what happens when you have 4 kids and occasionally go camping. 9x13 8 person tent with a 6 1/2 foot center height. And more stakes than I ever feel like driving into the ground...

And that weight limit is why I'll never buy a roof top tent. I'd rather get a cargo pod (already have it) and cross bars (need to buy them for the Journey) and then just put the seats in the back down. It's big enough to fit a twin mattress with both rows folded down.  If I'm sleeping in the car, then it's without kids, and this storage method might be enough. I prefer close quarters for sleeping arrangements with my wife.
 
Otherwise, I'll set up the "portable apartment."  This is what happens when you have 4 kids and occasionally go camping. 9x13 8 person tent with a 6 1/2 foot center height. And more stakes than I ever feel like driving into the ground...

I haven't had it done yet.  I'm waiting for an insurance claim against another driver who was towing an open rail trailer with a pile of gravel all over it that hit a bump in the road and sprayed rocks all over the front of my DJ
 
From the description of the problem (electronic controlled throttle, cruise control, and transmission, PCM calls for torque and simultaneously has an electrical short causing a stuck and non-responsive throttle), it should be little more than a programming change in a specific procedure (if loss of signal, cancel automatic throttle control). I'm not an engineer, but I do have a college course background in computer programming.  Given that it is only a software update, this is a highly likely scenario for the fix.

I haven't had it done yet.  I'm waiting for an insurance claim against another driver who was towing an open rail trailer with a pile of gravel all over it that hit a bump in the road and sprayed rocks all over the front of my DJ
 
From the description of the problem (electronic controlled throttle, cruise control, and transmission, PCM calls for torque and simultaneously has an electrical short causing a stuck and non-responsive throttle), it should be little more than a programming change in a specific procedure (if loss of signal, cancel automatic throttle control). I'm not an engineer, but I do have a college course background in computer programming.  Given that it is only a software update, this is a highly likely scenario for the fix.

Use copper on the 2.4, not iridium. The Chevy EcoTec engine used iridium plugs.  The only thing that EcoTec and the Chrysler World Gas Engine (the full name of the 2.4L in the DJ and many other Mopar vehicles) have in common is the displacement and the grade of fuel they use.
 
I second the suggestion to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes while having the 1/2 and 3/4 coil packs swapped (you already replaced all four plugs - albeit with iridium).  If the problem follows the coil pack, then you have your answer.  If the problem stays where it is, I would think it's a wiring problem.  If you get 4 new problems - rip out the iridium and replace them with copper, then test everything again.

Use copper on the 2.4, not iridium. The Chevy EcoTec engine used iridium plugs.  The only thing that EcoTec and the Chrysler World Gas Engine (the full name of the 2.4L in the DJ and many other Mopar vehicles) have in common is the displacement and the grade of fuel they use.
 
I second the suggestion to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes while having the 1/2 and 3/4 coil packs swapped (you already replaced all four plugs - albeit with iridium).  If the problem follows the coil pack, then you have your answer.  If the problem stays where it is, I would think it's a wiring problem.  If you get 4 new problems - rip out the iridium and replace them with copper, then test everything again.

Chrysler made some major changes on the brakes from the early Journey and 5th generation Grand Caravan/Town and Country to the current "heavy duty" (read: mechanically adequate) brake system.  Enjoy the brakes that actually work correctly for your vehicle dimensions.
 
All I can find about brake discard specifications is for the rotors.
 
Brake Rotor
Rotor Thickness
Minimum Rotor Thickness
Rotor Runout *
Front
27.87-28.13 mm
26.4 mm
0.050 mm
1.097-1.107 in.
1.040 in
0.002 in.
Rear
11.75-12.25 mm
10.4 mm
0.050 mm
0.463-0.482 in.
0.409 in.
0.002 in.

That requirement for you to pay for the flush isn't outrageous.  You paid for a maxcare warranty, brake calipers are a covered component. If you bring them an opened brake hydraulic system, they're going to charge you to fix it (unless it was caused by a failed caliper piston seal).  You took it apart, they would have to put it back together, and "user interference" is not something covered by the warranty.

That requirement for you to pay for the flush isn't outrageous.  You paid for a maxcare warranty, brake calipers are a covered component. If you bring them an opened brake hydraulic system, they're going to charge you to fix it (unless it was caused by a failed caliper piston seal).  You took it apart, they would have to put it back together, and "user interference" is not something covered by the warranty.

That requirement for you to pay for the flush isn't outrageous.  You paid for a maxcare warranty, brake calipers are a covered component. If you bring them an opened brake hydraulic system, they're going to charge you to fix it (unless it was caused by a failed caliper piston seal).  You took it apart, they would have to put it back together, and "user interference" is not something covered by the warranty.

Their presumed cost to value ratio doesn't quite add up.  They are fantastic vehicles (I've gotten a chance to ride in an X - it's impressive to say the least), but they are outside of the price range of most consumers.
 
They are pushing technological advancements though. Elon Musk has his hands in a lot of different pots.  Public transportation with the hyperloop and the means to deploy it (The Boring Company), solar power generation (their purchase of Solar City and the solar shingles that Tesla is starting to produce), energy storage (PowerWall), satellite broadband internet (Starlink project at SpaceX), and fully reusable rocket boosters (Falcon 9, expected to be replaced with a fully reusable rocket in the Big Falcon Rocket).  It's almost like he's planning for humans to leave this planet and still be able to function... http://www.planetary.org/blogs/jason-davis/2017/20170929-spacex-updated-colonization-plans.html

Don't use universal coolant for one.  Mixing coolant types will cause blockages in the radiator or engine at best, heavy corrosion at worst.  Get the coolant flushed correctly as soon as possible.
 
Check the consistency of the engine oil.  Yellowish to black is fine, chocolate milk like is a failed head gasket.  You also want to check hoses, especially any that are above hot components (like the exhaust manifold). If it's leaking from there, it will drip onto the heat shield and evaporate before you can see the leak.
 
One last place to check off hand would be the coolant overflow bottle - make sure it isn't cracked.

Service fill (pan drop, drain, new filter) is supposed to be 5.5 quarts of ATF+4.  A complete overhaul (100% drain) is 9 quarts.
 
There are plenty of videos out there for how to check the fluid level in a Chrysler 62te transmission, especially since this transmission is in the Grand Caravan (2008 and on), Town and Country (2008 until end of model), Journey, Nitro, and a bunch of other vehicles.  Your tool list should include sand paper (to rough up the end of the next piece of equipment to give the oil something to grip), a wire coat hanger, a knife (to mark the high and low points on your makeshift dipstick), pliers, a tape measure, duct tape, and a scan tool (to check transmission temperature).

Don't use universal coolant for one.  Mixing coolant types will cause blockages in the radiator or engine at best, heavy corrosion at worst.  Get the coolant flushed correctly as soon as possible.
 
Check the consistency of the engine oil.  Yellowish to black is fine, chocolate milk like is a failed head gasket.  You also want to check hoses, especially any that are above hot components (like the exhaust manifold). If it's leaking from there, it will drip onto the heat shield and evaporate before you can see the leak.
 
One last place to check off hand would be the coolant overflow bottle - make sure it isn't cracked.

P0562 is a low battery voltage error code, and it can happen from doing nothing more than attempting to jump start another vehicle.  It is triggered when there is a 10V measurement from the battery for 60 seconds while the engine is running.
 
All of the other error codes you're encountering are throttle pedal/body position/voltage warnings.
 
For a 2013 - is that the original battery?  If so, forget testing it, and ignore any test results with it. Just replace it.  A 5 year old battery is on borrowed time as it is.
 
As for the other three issues, it could be the throttle, it could be the throttle pedal.  It could be an underlying voltage problem causing everything.  Start with the battery and work your way towards the throttle body.
 
If it is a failed throttle body, the replacement procedure is not that bad for either 2.4L or 3.6L.  Procedure is disconnect battery, remove the intake resonator, remove the throttle body electrical connector, remove throttle body, clean mating surface, reinstall (this is not an exhaustive list of steps, nor is it intended to be).  The 2.4L does have a computerized re-learn procedure, so you might want to look into whether or not you can do it without a scan tool (I don't know, and usually the online manual I use tells you if there is an alternative).  The 3.6L does not mention any specific re-learn procedure.

There is only module for all 4 wheels. It's a single electrical connector and two nuts that attach to the studs inside the wheel well. You'll need to raise and support the rear end of the vehicle so you can remove the wheel to gain enough access.  Including the re-learn procedure, this shouldn't be more than a 1 hour job.

I hope it doesn't end up being a 2-row vehicle.  The biggest selling point for me of the Journey was that it was a 3-row vehicle, but wasn't a minivan (I already have one, and don't need a second thank you very much). It also isn't the enormous cost of a Durango.
 
FCA needs a modern 3 row budget-friendly platform since they didn't update the Grand Caravan when the Pacifica rolled out.  The Journey is a perfect balance for any family like mine (bunch of kids, already have a minivan, just need something for Dad to drive around every day, but still handle family hauling in a pinch).  A 2 row vehicle can't do that for me (4 kids now!)

For the $100 diagnostic fee, you could fix it yourself. The module is located in the left rear wheel well behind the splash guard, held onto the body by two nuts. The re-learn procedure for a new module is to let the vehicle sit for 20 minutes, then drive it for at least 20 minutes above 15 mph.  You've already done the basic troubleshooting (rotating tires and watching to see if the failure point moves).  It's not the wheel sensors or the problem would have travelled with the bad component.
 
I think this is the right part number: 56029542AD (Module - Tire Pressure Monitoring).  It's less than the diagnostic fee to determine if it is the failed component (multiple sites listing for around $95). Check with a dealer for the correct part number before putting money down for it.

For the $100 diagnostic fee, you could fix it yourself. The module is located in the left rear wheel well behind the splash guard, held onto the body by two nuts. The re-learn procedure for a new module is to let the vehicle sit for 20 minutes, then drive it for at least 20 minutes above 15 mph.  You've already done the basic troubleshooting (rotating tires and watching to see if the failure point moves).  It's not the wheel sensors or the problem would have travelled with the bad component.
 
I think this is the right part number: 56029542AD (Module - Tire Pressure Monitoring).  It's less than the diagnostic fee to determine if it is the failed component (multiple sites listing for around $95). Check with a dealer for the correct part number before putting money down for it.

The question is whether or not it is "factory certified" or if it is "dealer certified."  As an industry practice, a factory certified (Certified Pre-Owned) used vehicle will be in "as close to new as possible" condition - little wear, few if any barely noticeable cosmetic issues, no history of accidents, well maintained (with records), etc. Basically, you can tell with certainty that the vehicle is in the best possible condition that it can be.
 
Then there's dealer certified - which isn't worth the window paint that was used to write it on the windshield.
 
It's all still a gamble.  If you aren't familiar with working under the hood and how to check for obvious signs of failure on suspension and drive components, have a trusted mechanic look at it before you spend any real money.  Depending on the state, you may also have a 3 day return window for a full refund.

Nothing a little soldering or wire splicing can't fix (assuming the same number of cables, and no safety devices exist inside the connector).  Just remember, if you set your car on fire, it's not my fault.

For clarity sake - I meant one upstream and one downstream O2 sensor, not two of each.  The upstream sensor is at the front of the catalytic converter just behind the joint between it and the exhaust manifold.  The downstream is in in the middle of the converter. They are listed as two different parts (from what I can see, though I don't have part numbers for either).

That is pretty bad.
 
For your brake bleed - I'm hoping you bled them in the correct order (left rear, right front, right rear, left front).  Yes - it does make a difference (see: my first attempt at bleeding brakes on my T&C, which shares many of the same brake components as the DJ).  If there is any spongy feeling in your pedal, go back and do it again in that order.
 
Per specification, the gap should have been 0.043" - though, I hardly think the .001" would make any difference (and really, who can gap them consistently to 1 ten thousandth of an inch?) considering the gap it's coming from! Mainly, that's FYI for anyone else coming up on spark plug changes.