Sparkyssxt

At the ABSOLUTE very least you would need both a pcm and a tcm flash. Possibly a bcm flash as well. Seeing as the chassis are all made in the same run to save for tooling cost, it is pretty likely you can do a simply pull and place swap of the parts(to get the mechanics of it in there at least)

I've seen cell phone/GPS mounts that stick to the windshield or the dash via suction cup. And for textured dashes, they make an adhesive mounted plastic plate, just big enough for a suction cup(I use these and put a dab of clear or black silicone on before I lay the suction cup, makes the bracket more permanent)

OK. So I purchased a new mirror to replace my destroyed driver side. Had a few issues and had to swap parts, mainly the painted panel as well as the plastic trim piece at the door. (painted piece was black, my DJ is white, trim piece was broken at the leading edge) So I disassemble the connector, taking pictures as well as matching it to the old part, pull apart the swivel assembly(pita but if anyone needs to know how, let me know and I'll make a write up) swap all of my parts, modify studs where needed for proper fit... Anyways, get the thing all assembled and on the door. And my directions are all rotated CCW. Up moves right, right goes down, down goes left, and left goes up... But the right mirror operates as normal. Does anyone know of the wiring schematic(ie which color is common as well as which color controls which direction) So I can fix this thing? It's not too big of an issue, just frustrating when trying to adjust the mirror on the fly

Yet another thread I'm bringing back from the dead. Razor, your info is greatly misguided. The chroming process produces many chemicals(not to mention requires several others) that ARE in fact dangerous to the environment AND to you. It causes cancer, and the chemicals leach into the ground where it stays LONG after the business has closed its doors. Back home in cali, there was a chrome shop in Pacoima that closed its doors some 4 years ago because of the epa standards being nearly impossible to uphold. They tore the place down about 6 months after it closed and tested the ground under the place. Several of the chemicals had made it into the ground. That was through a foundation of concrete and rebar roughly 18" thick(I saw the chunks up close when they tore the place down) 4 years later they have yet to rebuild because ground testing still shows 90+% of those chemicals still present at highly dangerous(read cancerous) levels. There are few to none large chroming companies left, the few left over are independently owned. The rest of the legitimate chrome we get in the states comes from China or Mexico, where the epa standards on manufacture processes are substantially lower.

There is no reason to disconnect wiring as that will assuredly
give you signals(lights) in the dash which are annoying at best.
I am no means an authority on auto safety systems but I think
that a dealer may answer those issues better.
Hit the scrap yard circuit via the net in BC for a scrap replacement
and remember to disconnect the battery when toying with the
airbag system.

Dhh3 that is called the garage shift. The initial shift from Park to drive or reverse. When the fluid has drained from servos, clutches, pumps, pistons, torque converter, etc. The shift from 2-3 being solid has to do with the gearing. It applies the clutches more firmly because of the torque range it is intending to land in requiring more holding power. Why the 3-4 shift is so soft(bad drop in torque range due to the gear ratios between the 2 gears) the adaptive Trans sees someone driving aggressively and shifts aggressively. If it hasn't adapted to the next driver just yet and they're soft on the throttle, the solid shift will be much more noticable(almost to the effect of an electronic shift kit) worn/damaged/loose motor mounts can exacerbate the problem, making it much more noticeable.
I'm not saying there isn't something wrong with your DJ, but your husband may be moonlighting as a street racer... Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so. Reconnect it and go for a drive. See if the surging continues.

Dhh3 that is called the garage shift. The initial shift from Park to drive or reverse. When the fluid has drained from servos, clutches, pumps, pistons, torque converter, etc. The shift from 2-3 being solid has to do with the gearing. It applies the clutches more firmly because of the torque range it is intending to land in requiring more holding power. Why the 3-4 shift is so soft(bad drop in torque range due to the gear ratios between the 2 gears) the adaptive Trans sees someone driving aggressively and shifts aggressively. If it hasn't adapted to the next driver just yet and they're soft on the throttle, the solid shift will be much more noticable(almost to the effect of an electronic shift kit) worn/damaged/loose motor mounts can exacerbate the problem, making it much more noticeable.
I'm not saying there isn't something wrong with your DJ, but your husband may be moonlighting as a street racer... Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so. Reconnect it and go for a drive. See if the surging continues.

Also an FYI, the oil should really NOT be at the *full* mark, but at the middle of the cross hatch section on the dipstick. This is more than enough oil for perfectly safe operation of the vehicle and allows ample room for expansion during even the most aggressive driving temps

At the ABSOLUTE very least you would need both a pcm and a tcm flash. Possibly a bcm flash as well. Seeing as the chassis are all made in the same run to save for tooling cost, it is pretty likely you can do a simply pull and place swap of the parts(to get the mechanics of it in there at least)

Hi all,
Today I was thinking of going to the Dealer on Monday to have the transmission fluid on my 2011 3.6L V6
checked. Usually have it done monthly. Then I thought - I'm tired of doing this AND, "Why pay $50+ bucks
for a stupid tranny dipstick to check it myself?"
The last time I was at the Dealer having the fluid checked, the Tech let me take a photo of the "Factory"
dipstick assy.
For those who haven's seen one; its a small dipstick (a bit longer than a ballpoint pen), attached to a 6 ft.
long cable with a Tee-handle, marked off in 10mm steps
.
I got to thinking, the markings on the factory unit were on a 10mm scale, from 0 to 120mm. I looked at my
oil dipstick and figured I could reproduce that 10mm scale on it. Heck, it was worth a try.
So, as I was checking my oil, I was wondering if the oil dipstick would fit in the tranny filler tube where the
fluid is checked. Well, let me tell you -- it fits nicely thankyou. First off, clean off the oil dipstick so any
motor oil doesn't mix with the trans. fluid. Insert the dipstick into the tranny tube until it bottoms out.
The distance to the bottom of the pan is about 16 to 16 14", but you'll feel it contact the bottom of the pan.
I downloaded a Millimeter scale from the Net and made a hard copy in order to transfer the markings onto
the dipstick. (Don't use the "shrink to fit" option on the printer or the scale will be off)
I marked one edge of the dipstick every 10mm (upto 120mm) according to the scale, using a Dremel
Tool with a small cutting disk to notch the dipstick and notched the 50mm and 100mm marks on both
edges of the dipstick.
Now I have one tool (dipstick) for checking 2 systems, the oil/engine system, and the transmission.
The procedure took longer to explain than the actual project, but it kept me busy and away from the
wife's "honeydo" list. :hide:
I have a set of photos to go along with the project, so if anyone wants a copy of them (in zip format)
just send me an e-mail at johnk1rc@verizon.net and I'll send them to you.
If you have any questions, just ask. I'll answer them as best I can.
John, Dracut, MA.

Bringing back posts from the dead all over the place, ha! At least you have something to add though... I think that the original post was referring more to the undercarriage and specifically to road noise (though my DJ is damn near silent, so I'm not sure what the issue was on his). I've seen the comparisons in composition, price, etc before... Any idea on the weight trade-off between the two products? I would assume the asphalt is heavier, but have never used either product in a capacity that would allow a factual comparison.

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON DYNAMAT!! Take your noise hating self to home Depot or Lowes. Go to the roofing department. Look for a product called *peel n seal* it's about 20 bucks for a 6"x30' roll. It works just as well for sound dampening, plus has a thicker aluminum layer for better heat reflection(cooler summers, faster warming in winters) and the rubberized asphalt backing is much easier to work with. It's not super tacky like the dynamat but still sticks just as well after applied. A total undercoat with the stuff(or a strip down and interior layer instead) will cost you probably about 100 bucks vs 5-700 of dynamat.

Ugh. I keep seeing you guys say this about cold air intakes... Cold air is compensated for with more fuel. The ONLY compensation the computer does for colder air is to add fuel to keep the mixture stoic. It's why the trucks seem pepper when it's cold our and slightly sluggish when it's hot out. Valve timing doesn't change on VVT style heads either. It WILL make more power. Granted it is less than you would make by also improving the intake manifold. If u leave the exhaust alone you'll get some extra torque (higher relative back pressure) open the exhaust and you also raise the horses(but lower torque compared to not touching the exhaust)
Cold air intakes don't seem to do anything for us because (although restrictive) the factory intake IS a cold air intake. Better piping and a wider snorkel run to and from and through the exact same places WILL however increase throttle response as well as horsepower.

Ugh. I keep seeing you guys say this about cold air intakes... Cold air is compensated for with more fuel. The ONLY compensation the computer does for colder air is to add fuel to keep the mixture stoic. It's why the trucks seem pepper when it's cold our and slightly sluggish when it's hot out. Valve timing doesn't change on VVT style heads either. It WILL make more power. Granted it is less than you would make by also improving the intake manifold. If u leave the exhaust alone you'll get some extra torque (higher relative back pressure) open the exhaust and you also raise the horses(but lower torque compared to not touching the exhaust)
Cold air intakes don't seem to do anything for us because (although restrictive) the factory intake IS a cold air intake. Better piping and a wider snorkel run to and from and through the exact same places WILL however increase throttle response as well as horsepower.

I think there may be more to this story. Make them give your car back. It's YOUR car. Then try and duplicate the same thing. Get it on video. They are holding your car for what reason?

Or they know how to use a wedge and jimmy strip!