Sparkyssxt

Sorry it took so long to get back to this guy's, I had three wires one black one green and one purple. The purple was common so I switched the black and the green. Worked like a charm. Thanks to bigstr. You were a lot of help

Anybody have any ideas??

I've seen cell phone/GPS mounts that stick to the windshield or the dash via suction cup. And for textured dashes, they make an adhesive mounted plastic plate, just big enough for a suction cup(I use these and put a dab of clear or black silicone on before I lay the suction cup, makes the bracket more permanent)

OK. So I purchased a new mirror to replace my destroyed driver side. Had a few issues and had to swap parts, mainly the painted panel as well as the plastic trim piece at the door. (painted piece was black, my DJ is white, trim piece was broken at the leading edge) So I disassemble the connector, taking pictures as well as matching it to the old part, pull apart the swivel assembly(pita but if anyone needs to know how, let me know and I'll make a write up) swap all of my parts, modify studs where needed for proper fit... Anyways, get the thing all assembled and on the door. And my directions are all rotated CCW. Up moves right, right goes down, down goes left, and left goes up... But the right mirror operates as normal. Does anyone know of the wiring schematic(ie which color is common as well as which color controls which direction) So I can fix this thing? It's not too big of an issue, just frustrating when trying to adjust the mirror on the fly

Yet another thread I'm bringing back from the dead. Razor, your info is greatly misguided. The chroming process produces many chemicals(not to mention requires several others) that ARE in fact dangerous to the environment AND to you. It causes cancer, and the chemicals leach into the ground where it stays LONG after the business has closed its doors. Back home in cali, there was a chrome shop in Pacoima that closed its doors some 4 years ago because of the epa standards being nearly impossible to uphold. They tore the place down about 6 months after it closed and tested the ground under the place. Several of the chemicals had made it into the ground. That was through a foundation of concrete and rebar roughly 18" thick(I saw the chunks up close when they tore the place down) 4 years later they have yet to rebuild because ground testing still shows 90+% of those chemicals still present at highly dangerous(read cancerous) levels. There are few to none large chroming companies left, the few left over are independently owned. The rest of the legitimate chrome we get in the states comes from China or Mexico, where the epa standards on manufacture processes are substantially lower.

All obd2 ports are on the knee panel below the steering column. They are standardized in plug style AND location for ease of access for testing/diag

In my experience, wheel bearings will make a squealing noise or a ticking noise. First I would inspect your tires for uneven wear. It's possible it's from some misalignment and uneven tread wear.

What about an engine that requires the engine to be pulled to change spark plugs? (old vettes) cars that put the battery in the passenger area(porsche) cars that run electrical wiring across dozens of sharp angles with no protection over several feet to reach their destinations(every car on the planet) The battery can be gotten to by jacking up the front(just the driver side if u want to be lazy) and turning the wheel all the way to the right. They do this to protect the battery from engine heat(increased lifespan) as well as remove clutter from the engine bay. If ANY car company does something out of the ordinary or that seems to be inconvenient, it had some reason back in the think tank, they wouldn't waste the time or money designing things like that if it didn't

At the ABSOLUTE very least you would need both a pcm and a tcm flash. Possibly a bcm flash as well. Seeing as the chassis are all made in the same run to save for tooling cost, it is pretty likely you can do a simply pull and place swap of the parts(to get the mechanics of it in there at least)

Yes the 6 speed has a lock up torque converter.

Dhh3 that is called the garage shift. The initial shift from Park to drive or reverse. When the fluid has drained from servos, clutches, pumps, pistons, torque converter, etc. The shift from 2-3 being solid has to do with the gearing. It applies the clutches more firmly because of the torque range it is intending to land in requiring more holding power. Why the 3-4 shift is so soft(bad drop in torque range due to the gear ratios between the 2 gears) the adaptive Trans sees someone driving aggressively and shifts aggressively. If it hasn't adapted to the next driver just yet and they're soft on the throttle, the solid shift will be much more noticable(almost to the effect of an electronic shift kit) worn/damaged/loose motor mounts can exacerbate the problem, making it much more noticeable. I'm not saying there isn't something wrong with your DJ, but your husband may be moonlighting as a street racer... Try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so. Reconnect it and go for a drive. See if the surging continues.

Sounds like a pretty severe safety and security flaw to me...

I've been buzzing through so many posts the last few days I haven't even bothered looking at the dates they were posted. Just throwing my 2c in wherever I thought it may be useful

Damn gremlins... Typically this would be a loose or broken wire somewhere in the engine harness. It's not a short as you would pop a fuse each time the engine died. It IS possible it's a damaged sensor but you would have a check engine light from such.

Also an FYI, the oil should really NOT be at the *full* mark, but at the middle of the cross hatch section on the dipstick. This is more than enough oil for perfectly safe operation of the vehicle and allows ample room for expansion during even the most aggressive driving temps

Evap system minor leak or massive leak. You would have one of those from a loose/worn out gas cap

Push to start requires the keys be within a certain proximity to the vehicle(5 feet I believe). Which still releases her of liability if the vehicle remained running after she left the vicinity.

I miss read the first post.... Some info is off with what I said here - - - >Grice already said that his wife had the keys in her purse, that the vehicle was running via remote start. Meaning the vehicle HAD to have the shifter in Park unless the ignition and/or shift interlock was damaged/malfunctioning. Chrysler is at fault, the transmission Park pawl is somehow damaged or missing and this allowed the vehicle to roll backwards. They may be trying to contact the insurance for any previous accident damage/repairs pertaining to the transmission to release them of liability. Grice, give them your insurance reps phone number and have them contact your insurance directly. If little else, it'll get a ball rolling somewhere

Ugh. I keep seeing you guys say this about cold air intakes... Cold air is compensated for with more fuel. The ONLY compensation the computer does for colder air is to add fuel to keep the mixture stoic. It's why the trucks seem pepper when it's cold our and slightly sluggish when it's hot out. Valve timing doesn't change on VVT style heads either. It WILL make more power. Granted it is less than you would make by also improving the intake manifold. If u leave the exhaust alone you'll get some extra torque (higher relative back pressure) open the exhaust and you also raise the horses(but lower torque compared to not touching the exhaust) Cold air intakes don't seem to do anything for us because (although restrictive) the factory intake IS a cold air intake. Better piping and a wider snorkel run to and from and through the exact same places WILL however increase throttle response as well as horsepower.

A jimmy hasn't worked in quite some time now. The lock pin u see go up and down is on a motor/servo and the rods that ARE left are blocked so you can't get the jimmy on them. Watch gone in 60 seconds some time. It's no sci-fi bs. They really make portable code rippers

OK. If it's the same engine as the neon srt4(also the ptgt or any of the other 2.4s since the 94 cirrus) than you can EASILY make 250 ponies. With the size of the engine bay a standard set turbo fold and snail will likely fit snug, but the mexi manifold paired with a t3c flange turbo would likely fit better as it's closer to the head and the turbo is just mounted higher. You would have to run a custom intake tract(ditch the plastic stuff) and find a way to run IC piping and and find some place to shove an intercooler. The tricky part would be in the tuning. Idk if it can be done with a DSP tuner or something similar. But also being that this is a MAF run vehicle, it may not be much of an issue at all. FYI I'm running 230 horses from a 2.4 NA

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON DYNAMAT!! Take your noise hating self to home Depot or Lowes. Go to the roofing department. Look for a product called *peel n seal* it's about 20 bucks for a 6"x30' roll. It works just as well for sound dampening, plus has a thicker aluminum layer for better heat reflection(cooler summers, faster warming in winters) and the rubberized asphalt backing is much easier to work with. It's not super tacky like the dynamat but still sticks just as well after applied. A total undercoat with the stuff(or a strip down and interior layer instead) will cost you probably about 100 bucks vs 5-700 of dynamat.

I'm a bit of a wrench. I've had it about 3 years now. Love it. Have 2 Bluetooth adapters, one in my 98 neon rt and one in my '10 DJ sxt. I leave them connected all the time.

He traded an suv for a minivan. Lol... I don't like the look of the new Durango. It really seems like it needs a sliding door

Thanks ltdjourney. I was thinking it would be something simple like that. I'll be disassembling the housing beforehand tho so I don't have to tilt the mirror to the extremes