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So have you HAD the battery load checked and charging system checked lately????? and NOT 4 yrs ago????? just trying to help you without spending big bucks at your dealership and yes things do wear out I have a 2014 and my displays are still bright as they have been...also a lot of folks complain of starting problems and other electrical problems and when we get them to check their battery connections some of them yep their was a loose connections, or it was corroded, or the battery or alt wasn't up to snuff,,,,, there is a high chance the battery is getting weak........Good luck on what ever they find

Epilogue : the (small) wire between the starter and the relay box, actually , the connector not playing his role correctly , i had to add another screwed, solid wire to replace the existing one to resolve definetly this stupid (bad conception) issue. situation is back to normal. many thanks to Dean (by the Way) .

For the most part on an auto forum members try and help with suggestions to fix a problem, not how to deal with dealers on a problem concern. If you do not wish to do your own work, talk to your chosen dealer service manager about the concern {be sure to give specifics of the concern} and they can tell you what they would check and CHARGE to remedy the situation. Good luck to you in taking care of your concern and please report back your results.

Most common parasitic drain is the Bluetooth module staying on when it shouldn’t. In passenger side kick panel is a fuse panel with a black cover. Look for fuse labeled HFM hand free module, remove it and see if battery stays charged. You will lose your Bluetooth function with fuse removed. The module is very expensive and awkward to get to. Cheapest option is auto wreckers for part or online from rebuilding site. Booster packs sometimes won’t work if battery is really low. If it stills dies with HFM fuse removed then you need someone to troubleshoot what is staying on. Glovebox light it possible, could remove bulb. Leaving stuff plugged in charging in car also not good idea.

I get it. Like I said though, you say KYB and other people will say no lol. I've seen reports that they are also making their stuff in China... And they are SO, SO much more expensive. Who cares about the warranty if I still end up doing the job twice, right? Either way I can end up with twice the workload but at a fraction of the cost, or double/triple what I already planned. 😔 https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/qCLXDLi4gA Like that thread for example has replys just a couple of weeks old saying their quick strut assemblies are not good. I'm not keen on reusing my OEM mounts and springs either.. Not because I'm afraid of the tool, but because I feel like they are probably trash at this point (120k miles) of Michigan roads.

Well it's been roughly 3 weeks now. The wheelchair van is paid for and after a full week of trying to get insurance for it{successfully}, I will be getting the plates for it this week when I can come up with the $$ for title/reg./plates. Had a heck of a time on insurance as the Dodge vin was listed as an incomplete vehicle and would not come up for a normal vehicle. Insurance Co. data bases have a special section for such conversion vehicles that it seems most "representatives" do not know about. Finally got it done and at a good price, even cheaper than any of my 3 other cars for same coverage! The '14 DJ is temporarily staying with me, till my friend decides what he wants to do with it. Higher mileage and some minor body rust but mechanically top notch

You may be on to something here! I took the OP's word on multiple balancings being done and should have revealed a bad rim situation IF the person doing the task watched the tire AND wheel spin. One would not expect to see a bad aluminum rim unless a very noticeable bend from say a curb hit or severe pothole. I did countless tire changes and balances in my day and always watched how the tire and rim for "wobbling" as they spun in the balancer. Also an unusual amount of weight being needed to bring a tire "into balance" should be another "tip off" to a tire or rim problem. My standard was anything over 4 ounces on a passenger car tire was cause for further investigation. My apologies to our metric standard members for not giving the metric equivalent, but I think you will understand the "gist" of my posting.

330Pcs 12Sizes Car Plastic Rivets Fasteners Push Type Pin Rivets Clips Trim Kit for Ford Honda GM Acura Chrysler ETE Visit the ANTS PART Store 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (1,231) | Search this page 200+ bought in past month $14.99$14.99 AMAZON................ yrs ago I purchased a kit something like this but of course it was about half this price But you at least find a push pin that will work of course it might not be like the OEM pin but hey it is working okay for all my needs to also have them for other cars as well

You can do this. What holds the liner and most of the plastic parts to the vehicle. Is plastic trim push pins. Any type of push pin that fits the hole. Will work. This kit below has both kinds either type that fits securely works. The kit also includes the removal tools. Just get a light to see in the fender well. Turn the tire until you can find the hole. https://a.co/d/g1GwcC5

I would first have the alt checked to make sure it is putting out the correct current while running and also have the battery load checked as well both checks can be done at most auto parts stores for free,the electronics can act crazy without the proper current supplied to them.....that said there is a sensor that determines whether its day or night that controls the brightness of the lights inside the journey ,does your change brightness after it gets dark outside? as far as the horn beeping the three times and unlocks your journey after you have loved it and walked away is a common occurrence that I have as well ,I believe the journey notices that I have manually locked it before shutting the doors but hen thinks the keys are still inside the vehicle and will not let me walk away without beeping,kind of irritating but no big deal,,also first time iv read where the LCD displays degrade over time ????

Thank you.

It sounds like either your alternator is not putting out enough power (ecm controls how much alternator charges) or possibly a problem with bad grounds or even main power connections at battery/fuse box. Lots of people on the site have replaced some of the undersized wiring with better gauge wire and cleaned up some of the main grounds (down to clean shiny metal) and then a thin film of dielectric grease. You need a tec with a multi meter and electrical knowledge to check over the main wire harness. Electrical specialist is better option than regular auto mechanic, if you can find one. Even auto starter, sound system installer are reasonable option. Older cars in the rust belt can often have issues with bad electrical connections. Not a simple diy without having some electrical back ground unfortunetly. You have already checked more than a few things yourself like HFM fuse. Bad grounds or corroded connections can create a lot of weird electrical faults with random patterns. May be as simple as post connections on battery. The dash clicking noise may be the blender door venting the cabin air to prevent moisture build up. Most cars do this, it’s around a 2 min cycle of dash louvers. If you-are having condensation issues, then it’s broken like 5rebel9 mentioned and needs changing. But not parasitic load.

Clicking noise as you described when it happens is most likely a broken RECIRCULATION /door actuator. NOT LIKELY the cause of parasitic drain. The actuator is one of the easiest to change and many youtube videos about doing it. How old is the battery, and when were the cable ends last cleaned for both positive and negative at battery and the outside fuse panel and grounds at the strut tower????? A good FULL electrical system code scan would be a grat thing to have done to help find the source of your cars problems.

Also don't rule out the possibility of a bad roller tip on the rocker arm. My shop owner friend just had a 3.6 come in with randomly appearing same codes, yet all checked out until he pulled that sides valve cover and camshaft and removed the offending cylinders rocker arms and found one that was missing a couple of its needle bearings causing lack of valve opening/closing. They installed new rocker arms as thankfully the camshaft lobes had not been damaged, and all was good again. PROPER tools for the job are a MUST.

Yes it can....BUT Best done on a lift and a TWO PERSON job to remove and align things on reassembly. NOT FOR A NOVCE without good shop equipment.

Yeah, so since screen works with the aftermarket SCREEN . BUT I've read that some don't work well with temp controls. The SCREEN and actual radio from factory are seperate units and why I was trying to get to to SCREEN having failed on the original FACTORY screen. Please get that high end scanner done and check for codes. I would also reinstall ALL factory components and do the scan again. The scrreen and actual radio are not that hard to do, I've pulled and reinstalled a number of times with my stable of DJ's.

Thank you John I will try to remove the Bluetooth fuse!!

Are you thinking it may be the screen? It comes on in acc right away, everytime, with no issue. Would the TGW have any variation from ACC to RUN? I have a high end scanner at work that I will hook up to the vehicle and check modules. I will post any codes I see, thanks!

This diagram as well.

I can't say my little "trick" with new/rebuilt REAR calipers will fix this type of problem, BUT.... What I do when installing such calipers is to apply /release the parking brake a couple of times BEFORE bleeding the caliper. This moves the piston manually{not hydraulically} from being "bottomed out in the caliper , allowing more fluid in. With 3 of these cars, I've not had this soft/low pedal situation show up yet and I've done brakes on all of them. I also do the same when just doing pads/rotors after retracting the pistons. Also watch out for stuck caliper slide pins, another common "quirk".

insurance would have covered a lonely road and full coverage and an accidental fire...LOL oh well sorry to hear about this would have been interesting to find out what caused the problem,guess we will never know

You must have been glad to see it go....

The problem is that the fender liner piece is on wrong. It should be sitting on that plastic strip on the fender. Not behind it. So push pins won't work correctly. To fix it, remove that small separate piece of the fender liner and place it over the fender strip that the push pins clip into. .