2010 Front Rotor Replacement

[ptmuldoon]

I've read of many complaints with the Journey having undersized rotors, etc and i'm getting some pretty bad shake and vibrate in the car.

I'm planning to replace the rotors pretty soon, and have always done brakes and rotors myself. It's one of those few things I actually can do.

But can anyone confirm if the Front Rotor replacement is pretty 'standard'? Basically, jack up the car, pull the pins/bolts off the Caliper and remove the Caliper. And then the Rotor should pull/slide off? Think the caliper bolts are 13mm as well correct?

I was already reading that you can NOT use a C clamp to compress the caliper on this car? You should borrow a comprssion tool kit from your local store for it as I think the caliper needs to both compress and spin back in?

Any tips on replacing them?

[2late4u]

look in the forums for rotor replacement it has been discussed plenty with all the answers you need

[jkeaton]

Front calipers are normal and you can compress with a c clamp. Rears have to be turned while pressing in.

[Lobitz68]

Front calipers are normal and you can compress with a c clamp. Rears have to be turned while pressing in.

This...

Make sure to get a good aftermarket part. Spend an extra $20-30 and never have to worry about it again.

[bfurth]

The front brake components on a 2010 Dodge Journey are exactly the same as a 2010 T&C. The pads for the front (if getting Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic) are QC1327. It's "standard" (straight compression to reset the calipers). Caliper slide pin retaining bolts have a 13mm bolt head, but you'll need an open end wrench (I want to say 15mm) to hold the slide pin while you break the bolt loose. The slide pins sit inside the caliper adapter bracket, the pads rest inside the bracket as well, the caliper fits over the new pads and rotor, and then the two 13mm bolts go into the slide pins (I think it's around 20 ft-lbs for the slide pin bolts).

The caliper adapter bracket needs to come off if you are replacing rotors. It should be two bolts (18mm I think) on the back side of the steering knuckle. The T&C/Grand Caravan has those installed to 125 ft-lbs of torque. Get the right specs for the '10 DJ and use a torque wrench - brakes are nothing to play around with and guess if it's tight enough.

Get some synthetic brake grease (Permatex makes good stuff!) and clean/re-grease the slide pins during re-assembly. Can't tell you how many people have complained about their 5th generation Chrysler minivans with brake noise and rapid brake wear which is actually caused by a lack of proper lubrication on the slide pins, causing the calipers to seize on the slide pins. Dry brake metal-on-metal contact points = hot/noisy/failed brakes.

A good set of pads should include new metal clips for each contact point in the caliper adapter bracket. Replace the old clips with the new ones (and pay attention, they fit in a specifc spot, so only replace on at a time), and put a VERY thin coating of high-temp resistant brake lube on each clip. The pads will float more smoothly and will eliminate any chance of pad seizing. It's probably overkill, but it costs next to nothing (because you already bought anti-sieze to put on the wheel hub, which you spent the time to clean all the rust off of after spending an hour or more trying to remove the old rotor). An ounce of prevention...