Mustanghunter Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 K this is going to make me look silly but I did order the parts....suggested but aside from the sliding pin kit that I have to get for both sides what else am I missing.....ahem when I ordered the calipers I guess I assumed all the hardware came with it but only the bleeder screw came with each caliper so what is the rest I'm missing....my friend who is installing this would know BUT I want to have everything before I get to him......you know streamline.....I looked on the Chrysler parts website and just got super confused....could I just take the calipers to autozone and just tell them I need all applicable hardware for the caliper....again sorry for sounding so inept....lol.....thanks for any constructive feedback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 (edited) My apologies for not including it in the original post. You will require the pin kit (slider pins) to mount the caliper to the bracket. The part number is 68144165AA and you will need one kit for each caliper. Included in the kit is the bolt, pin & rubber boot. It may be possible to reuse the old one? But it wouldn't hurt to have the parts on hand in case they don't fit. You should be able to return them if not needed. You MAY also need the spring kit? Its more of a shim or guide than a spring, but thats what Chrysler calls it. Most quality brake parts sellers include them with new pads, but not always. Edited January 12, 2014 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_p Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 FROGBOX, its been a few months since you installed the bigger brakes, any more feedback on their performance, wear, warpage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 FROGBOX, its been a few months since you installed the bigger brakes, any more feedback on their performance, wear, warpage? I am super happy with the upgrade. After going through 2 sets of pads/rotors due to warpage in under 40k km, I was very apprehensive about braking hard and would always be conscious of the brakes and try to go easy on them every time I stopped. Now, I can brake with no worries at all. In fact, I often find myself braking hard on purpose, usually on highway off ramps, to really push them (and to see if any vibrations have returned). The brakes still slow the vehicle down nice and smooth. I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone who has had front brake issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcole1122 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Good write up sir! Our 2010 journey has already had 2 break jobs done (under warranty fortunately) but once the warranty is up I am definitely doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustanghunter Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Frogbox I have a question...I completed the upgrade with phenomenal results...but now I have a different issue as a result of the upgrade...keep in mind I have the optional 19 wheels...so about four days after completing the upgrade now upon every bump I go over no matter the size of the bump both my front ties make a rattling sound...but if I brake while driving over a bump then I get no noise...I pulled over and proceeded to kick my tire and sure enough it made the same sound only more minimal...I'm curious of you encountered this same issue if not then what so you think this might be...I'm thinking pads because upon inspection all brake components are right and solid no movement what so ever...also the clearance between the wheel and caliper ha got to be 5mm only if that means anything...any help is much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) By what you describe, my guess would be the retaining springs/clips that hold the pads are either not installed properly, or perhaps not installed at all? If the retaining springs are not installed, the pads will certainly rattle around in the carriers and cause the noise you describe. The retaining springs/clips are not on my parts list in the write up. In my experience, almost every set of new aftermarket pads have always come with the springs/clips, so I did not include them in the list. Since I didn't source the parts new, I may have been mistaken about what would be included with new dealer pads? EDIT: I just checked the front parts for a 2013 Journey and see that the spring kit is listed at $48. The spring kit for the older style brakes is only $14, so perhaps that is why the new style are not included with new pads??? I will add the springs/clips to the parts list in my first post. Hopefully that is all that is missing and will be an easy fix for you. Edited February 26, 2014 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustanghunter Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Ok so my next question is since I upgraded the brakes via the part numbers provided earlier in this thread...am I to buy the 48 dollar sporting kit and lastly does that cover both sides or do I need to buy two kits....thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustanghunter Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Oh almost forgot the pads I got are aftermarket wagner thermoquiets....which are one single piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Ok so my next question is since I upgraded the brakes via the part numbers provided earlier in this thread...am I to buy the 48 dollar sporting kit and lastly does that cover both sides or do I need to buy two kits....thanks One kit should cover both sides. I have done front & rear brakes on friends & neighbors Journeys & Grand Caravans with the older style brakes and every time, the pads came with a new set of springs in the box, so its my fault for not including them in the parts list. I am not sure why the newer ones are so expensive compared to the older style at $16? Edited March 1, 2014 by FROGBOX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan1985 Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Hey FrogBox, Nice post! My newly acquired used Journey just started to shake when i brake and i found your upgrade to be the best solution to fix this issue, which seems to be recuring if you replace with OEM parts. This upgrade will still fit with my 17 inch steel black rims for winter tires??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) Hey FrogBox, Nice post! My newly acquired used Journey just started to shake when i brake and i found your upgrade to be the best solution to fix this issue, which seems to be recuring if you replace with OEM parts. This upgrade will still fit with my 17 inch steel black rims for winter tires??? I guess "best" depends on the person, but you can get much nicer than OEM brakes for a LOT cheaper than this big brake upgrade.... This would also beef up the brakes enough to keep them from warping. This is a great project and post though. Edited May 5, 2014 by Lobitz68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan1985 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 what did you put on yours to stop them from warping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 what did you put on yours to stop them from warping? They warp because of excessive heat, there is nothing you can put on them to stop it from happening. You either need bigger brakes like FROGBOX did or to buy a nicer aftermarket rotor. I'm not sure if this question was directed at me, but I have the 2014 which has the HUGE brakes on it. No warping issues. As far as aftermarket, you could either get a high end rotor with better materials or you could move to something like a slotted or dimpled rotor that is able to better dissipate the heat that is building up. Your driving habits also contribute to warping, but it sounds like the older brakes are just a bit undersized to me. Jonathan1985 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Destination Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 how one torques their wheels can also contribute to warping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 how one torques their wheels can also contribute to warping. He speaks the truth! I always use a torque wrench to do the final torquing of wheels when finishing up a rotation or brake job. It amazes me how many tire and wheel places still just cinch them down with their air tools and call it good. Ridiculous... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hockey_puck Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 What do you set your torque wrench at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 They warp because of excessive heat, there is nothing you can put on them to stop it from happening. You either need bigger brakes like FROGBOX did or to buy a nicer aftermarket rotor. I'm not sure if this question was directed at me, but I have the 2014 which has the HUGE brakes on it. No warping issues. As far as aftermarket, you could either get a high end rotor with better materials or you could move to something like a slotted or dimpled rotor that is able to better dissipate the heat that is building up. Your driving habits also contribute to warping, but it sounds like the older brakes are just a bit undersized to me. I'm thinking that driving style (and traffic conditions, of course) must have a lot to do with it. We have an 09 with stock rotors. Very adequate stopping power, and no warpage. We do live in a very small town, don't often drive in heavy traffic, and I, at least, am very light on the brakes. (My wife tends to use the brakes more than I do.) We have had the car for several years now, and have just over 55,000 on it. I did just replace the rear pads a week or so ago. I don't know about previous service, but it was the first time I've had to do anything with the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Another thing that can cause a pulsation in the brake pedal is a concentrated deposit of pad material in one spot on the rotor. It acts like warped rotors, but its a patch in one spot that grabs, so every time it passes under the pad, it catches and makes for a less than smooth slow down. The biggest cause of this deposit is hot rotors and standing at a stop with the brake on. The pads are made of various materials, but use a resin to bond them all together. That is how the pad material keeps its shape. If you do a long hard brake, like slowing down from highway speeds on an off ramp, and stop at the end of the ramp with your foot on the brake waiting for the light, the heat in the rotor can melt the resin in the pad and deposit it in the one spot on the rotor. A good practice is to either coast to a stop if safe to do so, or release the brake after a hard stop and allow the vehicle to slowly roll forward with light pedal pressure so the pad is not sitting on one spot on the hot rotor. Journey_SeXT 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey_SeXT Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 What do you set your torque wrench at? Owner's manual states 95 ft/lbs (130 N-m). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humansoul Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Hey FrogBox...thanks again for this thread and paving the way to an alternative to the Journey brake problems! My initial plan was to change my current OEM brakes/pads to aftermarket to see if it would make a difference and in hopes would solve all my brake problems. After reading your thread, I'm planning on doing the big brake upgrade on my 2011 DJ Crew and wanted to get some feedback from you. -Given you've had some time already with this set up, would you recommend sticking with the OEM pads and rotors? I did a quick quote on Mopar Overstock for all OEM parts with a total of $660. Now, if I went aftermarket to something like Centric Rotors and ceramic pads, it would cost about $60 more. Would you do aftermarkets if you had to do it again? -Would you happen to know if the Rotor for the fronts have changed? Other than Mopar Overstock, the other site you mentioned cannot find the part # 04779712AA Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 My advice is to try to find some of the parts used from a wreckers. I have seen the calipers & brackets sell for between $35 - $75 per side. Then, all you need is a set of new rotors & pads and you're golden. If you have an address to have them shipped to in the States, get the parts from Rock Auto. Best prices anywhere on the net. Heavy Duty front rotors - Raybestos part number 780964 - $60 each Professional Grade front pads - Raybestos part number PGD1589C - $55 Total cost for the parts will be between $300-$350 depending on how cheap you can get the calipers. rolly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humansoul Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) My advice is to try to find some of the parts used from a wreckers. I have seen the calipers & brackets sell for between $35 - $75 per side. Then, all you need is a set of new rotors & pads and you're golden. If you have an address to have them shipped to in the States, get the parts from Rock Auto. Best prices anywhere on the net. Heavy Duty front rotors - Raybestos part number 780964 - $60 each Professional Grade front pads - Raybestos part number PGD1589C - $55 Total cost for the parts will be between $300-$350 depending on how cheap you can get the calipers. Thanks for the fast reply! I also noticed you only did this for the fronts? Are you still on stock OEM rear pads and rotors? I'd probably would like to get all 4 done. Edited June 20, 2014 by humansoul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FROGBOX Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 My rear pads were worn down almost to the metal, so I couldn't wait to get the larger rears. I had to go aftermarket. I went with a Powerstop Kit. Drilled & slotted rotors & ceramic pads. They are holding up fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humansoul Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 My rear pads were worn down almost to the metal, so I couldn't wait to get the larger rears. I had to go aftermarket. I went with a Powerstop Kit. Drilled & slotted rotors & ceramic pads. They are holding up fine. Thanks again Frogbox. You wouldn't happen to know the part numbers needed to do the rear big brake upgrade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.