Front wheel bearing replacement.

[Engineerbasher]

I figured I'd share this with whomever finds themselves fighting with stuck bearing assembly. 

 

The bolts are regular 1/2 inch grade 2 carriage bolts with nuts and washers. I tightened the nuts up and gave the hub a good wack to break it loose then just worked it out by turning the nuts on the back of the hub until it came out. 

[5rebel9]

Certainly a "novel" approach to a "sticky situation"!

  In my climate area, we try our best to not have to remove the rotor dust shield as those small 6mm bolts tend to just snap off the heads and leave you with more "fixing" to do.

[John/Horace]

Yeah torch or induction heater on those small shield bolts; then back in with anti seize or dab of grease. You can sure tell it's a southern vehicle; the salt does so much more damage on northern vehicles. Makes me jealous.  My back wheel bearing hubs needed new 16mm bolts because of corrosion.

 

I like the cost effective diy puller; cheap and very effective. I was using two cold chisels as wedges and a 5 pound club hammer in my early wheel bearing work. Finally got a cheapo Harbor Freight/Princess Auto sliding hammer about five yrs ago. Fast but sometimes you have ball bearings flying across the garage. But I prefer swapping a hub over pressing in a bearing any day. 

[Engineerbasher]

I'm not too far south, Ross County Ohio. They heavily salt the roads, when I got this car a few years ago I put about $75 worth of fluid film on all the undercarriage stuff. Also my wife (it's her car) likes to take it through the car wash in the winter. Unfortunately I've had to junk a couple vehicles because of rust and this is the first car I've bought that wasn't rusting away away n I have tried to keep it from from rusting terribly.

 

I think this is the 2nd set of front brakes I've put on it and it's about due for a 3rd but not quite yet. I also had to replace the inner/outer tie rods. I figure when it's ready for a brake job I'll replace the ball joints, struts an swabar links. 

[2late4u]

7 hours ago, Engineerbasher said:

I'm not too far south, Ross County Ohio. They heavily salt the roads, when I got this car a few years ago I put about $75 worth of fluid film on all the undercarriage stuff. Also my wife (it's her car) likes to take it through the car wash in the winter. Unfortunately I've had to junk a couple vehicles because of rust and this is the first car I've bought that wasn't rusting away away n I have tried to keep it from from rusting terribly.

 

I think this is the 2nd set of front brakes I've put on it and it's about due for a 3rd but not quite yet. I also had to replace the inner/outer tie rods. I figure when it's ready for a brake job I'll replace the ball joints, struts an swabar links. 

Get your pads off amazon I only use akabano, they are the

OEM maker of pads made in USA and they are great quality

Edited yesterday at 12:24 AM by 2late4u

[John/Horace]

Fluid film is amazing stuff, have used it a few times. Pricy but doesn't wreck wiring or rubber. Good on trailers as well.

 

Few posts on site with pics on ball joint change. Not that bad on journey, press tool isn't absolutely needed, but easier. New ball joint with grease nipple is preferred by some people. Havent changed a sway bar link on either of the two journeys I work on. Although my struts are over due for changing. Lots of bad roads near by, speeds up front end wear.

 

The cv axle nuts are listed as non reusable on some Internet sites. I've reused them, having changed 3 out of the 4 wheel bearing hubs  on our 2014 awd, rechecked torque a few times weeks later,  never had an issue.  But free advice is worth everything you pay for it.