mspurrell Posted October 30, 2021 Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 Battery is fully charged and measures 12.56V across the battery posts. Measuring across the exposed terminals (the battery is down in the fender and not up top where most vehicles have them, and in lieu of that there is a positive terminal placed up top) shows only 2 - 3V. The vehicle appears to be completely dead. Absolutely no lights/sounds. Cannot even attempt to start it. If boosted the car starts right up and runs, as long as the cables remain connected. Once removed the car sputters and dies out unless the gas pedal is depressed. The car will run at a higher ram but it still flickers and a relay can be heard clicking back and forth. Where do I begin to troubleshoot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 30, 2021 Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 So you got at the battery to test at it's posts.... Loss of voltage by the time it takes to get to the engine bay jumper posts would indicate resistance(dirty/corrosion) of cable connections or cables themselves as they are not the "heaviest" gage wires of cars of older times. Get back in there and clean the posts and cable clamps. Use a light coating of dielectric grease on reassembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mspurrell Posted October 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 All clean. I disconnected the cables to the jumper post and cleaned it before measuring. The battery cable at the jumper post is still 12V+ when disconnected, but when connected to the jumper post and everything else only measures 3V ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5rebel9 Posted October 30, 2021 Report Share Posted October 30, 2021 2 minutes ago, mspurrell said: All clean. I disconnected the cables to the jumper post and cleaned it before measuring. The battery cable at the jumper post is still 12V+ when disconnected, but when connected to the jumper post and everything else only measures 3V ish. check the NEGATIVE jumper on the strut tower, it's multiple wires and common for resistance from "tarnishing to develope there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 Even grinding off paint around the grounds to bare metal, then a light coat of dielectric grease can help. Salt belt cars have more issues with this. On copper connection, clean means shiny bare metal. Scratch the point of meter probes on surface of remote contacts under hood. If functioning right there is a small loss from top battery post, approx 0.3 volts, not 9. Load test battery in car as well. Need at least 300 cranking amps to properly start, 12.5 volts only useful with amperage as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) ( If boosted the car starts right up and runs, as long as the cables remain connected. Once removed the car sputters and dies out unless the gas pedal is depressed. The car will run at a higher ram but it still flickers and a relay can be heard clicking back and forth)................Sounds like the ALTERNATOR is BAD as it wont keep car supplied with juice once going and car will run if jumped, so sounds like the BATTERY is BAD.........doesn't matter what the battery reads if it is not enough power to crank the starter. Edited October 31, 2021 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparhawk1995 Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 I just started having this exact same problem on a 2017 Journey. I have put 2 brand new duralast batteries (I had them checked at the store before I left) AND a new alternator in the vehicle. Cable coming up from the battery disconnected from fuse block reads 12.4V.. as soon as I connect to the fuse block, voltage reading drops to 3V. Any help would be appreciated. I am at wits end trying to figure this problem out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 I think there is an IBS sensor on the cable that can go bad also its down on the battery end of the clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, larryl said: I think there is an IBS sensor on the cable that can go bad also its down on the battery end of the clamps www.samarins.com/glossary/battery-sensor.html Edited December 31, 2022 by 2late4u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 located on the end of the negative battery cable at the battery connector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 (edited) Battery current sensor. I don’t work for these guys, best jpeg’s that copy easily. Could bypass and confirm it’s issue. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2017,journey,3.6l+v6,3434428,electrical,battery+current+sensor,13536 Edited December 31, 2022 by John/Horace 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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