Borjawil Posted June 2, 2020 Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 Swapping a 3.5 in an 09 journey fwd. Got everything unbolted to remove engine. Using a wooden dolly to hold engine. Saw a couple YouTube videos that don't explain it too well. Basically they say to remove the trans mounts. But what holds the trans then? Another jack? I've started lifting the vehicle and the trans and engine have separated approx 1/2-1". But the engine can't slide to the pass side any further as the block where the top mount goes hits the frame/wheel well area. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Figured it out and pulled from the top. Actually on of the easiest pulls ive done. Ill try to do a write up and video for youtbue as well. But for now the main points are 1) dont disconnect AC or power steering pump and lines. leave it hanging. 2) I removed both axles but Ive seen that only the driver side needs to be removed. Slides right out, pass side the support needs to be removed and then itll come out. 3) catch all the trans fluid when pulling axles and separating from engine. Apparently there is no fill plug, but I havent confirmed this yet. Major design flaw if so. 4) rear trans and top trans mount need to be removed. Easiest done by unbolting top one from vehicle, dropping the cross bar under the trans, and then access to the 3 bolts facing the wheel well can be gotten to. Oh and remove the top engine mount. Either use a jack or your engine hoist to support everything. Once the mount is removed from the trans and vehicle, raise it back up, bolt the cross member, and pull the engine. Use a leveler so the engine slips away from the trans. Dont forget to remove your flywheel to torque converter bolts. 4 of them, theres an access panel underneath. 5) youll need to remove the crank dampener, alternator can stay on, belt tensioner can stay as well. 6) make sure to drain coolant from radiator, big hose on pass side underneath, and the smaller hose on the front lower that connects to the plastic barb that clips on to the block (weird plastic square block thing) 7) rear manifold can stay on but easier if its removed. I pulled with it off, and installed with it on. wasnt a huge hassel, but the cat and o2 sensors tend to catch on the heater core hoses. Easily remove manifold with engine in. Not sure why a lot of people make a stink about on bolting it. Remove the heat shield and climb on top of your engine bay. Knees on header panel above radiator and bend over. 8) remove wipers to remove plastic on firewall to windshield. Theres a plastic box under that. Youll want to remove plastic box if you remove or install with manifold on. super easy to remove. 9) I did not remove the radiator, fan, front clip, fenders, etc. that ive seen the 2 or 3 videos do on youtube. Unecessary. 10) there are bolts from the engine to trans and trans to engine. 4 18mm on trans to engine, and 6 or 7 from engine side to trans. Starter needs to be removed. thats really about it. besides the upper intake and wiring harness, airbox, etc. 2late4u, jkeaton and OhareFred 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2020 Adding to this. You can fill trans from top. Plus says for dealer use only. Its under the airbox jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 To add to the above for transfluid. 3.5l 6 speed trans take 4qts of fluid unless it's a new or completely dry trans. Theres no dipstick unfortunately. But I have another question if anyone knows. Looking at the torque converter and flywheel or flex plate there are four raised points on converter. Usually ive seen flex plates and converters only matching up one way, but looks like it could go together at any 90degree point for the bolts holes. However, mine is binding with the block and trans bolted together. Can't turn the flywheel. If I loosen bolts so there's a 1/4-1/2" gap I can turn. But hard to tell if converter is doing free like I believe it should. I've roasted fly wheel 90 and 180 and 270 degrees from where I started and same thing. Before I pull apart any advice or anyone know if it mates a specific way? I know the fly wheel bolts get tightened after the block and trans are bolts. Manual says to tightened the bottom two bolts on engine first then do the converter bolts. Still binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borjawil Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Well swapped flywheels out. Can't get things to line up up correctly. Not sure if anyone knows but the extra "ridge" on the fly wheel with the square cut outs is for a sensor to read. Does that go over the torque converter or just touches it? It looks to be about 1.5" wide, where as the torque converter raised bolt holes are only about .5" The trans is basically loose in the engine any resting in the cross member, as you have to undo all mounts. At this point I'm going to lift the engine out of the vehicle and see how the other flex plate fits on the converter. Then I'll likely remove the trans and mate it to the block, then see if I can get them in through the top. There looks to be enough room if you go at an angle with the trans pointed downward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemi_jj Posted October 31, 2021 Report Share Posted October 31, 2021 How did you get the very back engine to trans bolt out. I just can’t find a way to get to it from the top or bottom. Thinks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted November 1, 2021 Report Share Posted November 1, 2021 Mitchel on line login for a month not that pricy. All torque specs and assembly instructions for pretty much all cars. Lots of shops have a subscription. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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