data1701

In my experience the cause of the phantom battery drain is the faulty bluetooth (actually it is called the hands-free module or HFM in Mopar-speak). My bluetooth stopped working a couple years ago, and ever since I have had intermittent issues with low system voltage and no-start situations. I am long off warranty and after several new batteries and charging system checks, my shop was telling me to try replacing the BCM. I was seeing some other blutooth / HFM related posts, and decided to figure out which fuse is for the HFM. Once I figured it out, I removed it, and ever since it has been problem-free, even on a Winnipeg winter night at -35 celcius (yes it gets that cold here). However, my wife just called to say the car will crank but not start. So, not sure what is up with that, but hopefully this solves the issue for all you folk with the HFM-related starting/battery issues. Good luck!

We have a 2012 Crew, and it went a couple years before the problem emerged during an extremely cold winter spell (persistent daytime temps of -30 plus wind chill, and overnight temps of -40 and colder. plus windchill) in Winnipeg. Then, we blew hoses four times in the space of six weeks. Not fun. Then we were good for a couple years, until Transport Canada forced Chrysler to issue the recall in 2016. We had the recall performed as quickly as possible, and that got us through one and a half winters, until the problem recurred late this winter, albeit less catastrophically. We've had a leak for a few months now, which I've been nursing by adding ATF+4 fluid. Took it to the dealership for some bodywork and I had them take a look while it was there. They told me at that time that it was the high pressure line leaking this time, not the return, and that even if it was the return line which was replaced as part of the recall, they wouldn't warranty the work since more than a year had passed. This pissed me off so I drove away. A couple months later (and an oil slick in my driveway) and I finally took the time to jack it up and inspect myself. I can unequivocally say that it is again the return line, leaking from somewhere within the rubber portion, which is covered with a hose loom so I can't see exactly where. I was initially thinking I would take it off myself and take it to a hydraulic shop to have the hose remade properly, but upon a closer look at the location of that hose, I couldn't confidently remove and replace it myself. So, I called Transport Canada, and low and behold, there is another investigation underway, this time for failures on the recall work. I logged my problem, and got a reference number and a request to report back with any developments. I took it back to the dealership and asked for the service manager, I wound up talking to the shop foreman, and at his request made an appointment. He indicated that if the work they did was faulty, that they would 'do something'. The appointment isn't for a couple days, but I will report back afterwards. Until then, if you have this issue, call Transport Canada at 1-800-333-0510 to let them know, as it will help with the investigation. For the record, I absolutely cannot believe this is still an issue. It is completely ridiculous and could easily be solved by adding a bypass into the system loop to bypass the cooler in cold weather (when pressures reach a certain point), by using better quality fluid, and by using properly constructed hoses.

Success! I installed the new actuator and the issue is resolved. I don't wish this job on my worst enemy. The quarters are extremely tight. It would almost have been worth it t completely remove the passenger seat to gain some extra room to work. You have to completely remove the glove box, and you will need to remove the first screw on the recoil for the glove box and then swivel it up and out of the way. Then, remove the harness on the actuator, and at this point I tested the new actuator by plugging it in, and used the recirc button ti operate it to ensure 1) it works, and 2) that it is positioned correctly so that it will line up with the splines on the recirc door shaft. With all that verified, you can remove the top screw. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a phillips bit to loosen the screw, and then finished removing it by finger. You will find that being small (I am not - at 6'1") and flexible will help your cause. I am neither, so this was slow, frustrating going. For the second screw, which is further back and near the bottom of the actuator, you will have to remove the first harness from the BCM (or whatever module is inside and to the right behind the glove box, as it is completely in the way of the screw); careful not to break the lever/clip. This screw is even more difficult. Once both screws are removed, you can wiggle the actuator off the shaft. Then install the new actuator, reverse the steps and voila. All done. Good luck!

At -35 the compressor running is irrelevant; there is basically no moisture in the outdoor air. I did some further diagnosis today and I believe I have found found the problem. First, I tried to reset the electronics by pulling the ground cable from the firewall for half a day, but with no effect. Recirc still seems inoperative. So, I pulled the glove box and the cabin air filter, which allows you to see the recirc door which is located behind the glove box and above the blower. The recirc actuator is on the right side of the cabin air filter housing. My recirc door is stuck in the recirc position; the actuator doesn't seem to operate at all. Because of this, my vehicle is not drawing in any fresh (outdoor) air, and instead is recirculating the humid interior air, which becomes more and more humid because it is trapping the air from myself and my five passengers which at -30 temps quickly causes massive frost build-up on the inside of the windows. I checked and due to the cold weather, all the local auto parts stores are sold-out of the actuator (jobber/aftermarket version, price is about $55, FYI). NAPA is supposed to be bringing one in for me tomorrow. I'll report back once I've had a chance to pick it up and swap it for the old one. I asked the parts guy, and apparently these actuators sometimes make a loud clicking noise when they fail (stripped gears), but more often they just go dead. I just experienced the exact same issue on a family member's 2008 Impala, but that one was making the loud clicking and therefore much easier to diagnose. Quarters are tight, but otherwise this looks to be a fairly simple replacement job (famous last words). Fingers crossed that this will work. I'll let you know.

Thanks for posting, I am having the same problem. It didn’t seem to be an issue the first few years (we bought our 2012 Crew new, but in the last few years we have had problems with moisture accumulation, particularly in cold weather (we are in Winnipeg). We took it in while still under warranty a few years ago and they performed some kind of climate system flush. Didn’t seem to improve anything to be honest. We’ve had a coupler milder winters so we didn’t notice it as much. Today, couldn’t keep the windows clear to save my life. Had to keep fan on max, mostly on full defrost (floor/defrost blend setting wasn’t sufficient) and had to drive with windows cracked open. Also, my rear heat now only blows cold air. Very frustrating. I am beginning to suspect that either the drain tube is blocked, and/or that the recirculation is stuck on, in both cases causing moisture to accumulate. Has as anyone else experienced these issues? Any solutions?