jkeaton

Welcome from NC!

On 1/12/2024 at 10:27 PM, John/Horace said:

ESL speak with no grammar or punctuation, or just bad AI coding. Can’t tell.

 

 

 

 

 

Become a mod. Then you can ban him/her/it .

Hello friends.  We need some moderators. Who’s interested? 

Get the code read and you might find out why. 

Did you use OEM parts? Have you taken it back to the shop and asked them? 

Blend door malfunction. 

English please. 

Pretty easy. There may be a plastic cover that hides the nut holding the wiper on the stem. This will pry off easily with a small flat-head screwdriver.

Next, remove the nuts. If the wipers won't pull off, strike the wiper arm directly on the joint. This may take a few good strikes. Use a hammer and a block of wood if need be.

Remove the wiper arms from the stem totally. Try to line up the wiper blade where you think it should be on the windshield and push the wiper arm back down onto the stem. The reason you want to try to position the blade first is because the stem has ribs that the hole of the wiper arm lock into when you press the arm onto the stem. Some windshields will have little black hash marks where the wiper blades should be when not in use.

When you think you have the wipers lined up, tighten the nuts back onto the stem. Spray the windshield with glass cleaner and run the wipers at high speed. Testing the wipers while the windshield is wet ensures that the wipers won't slap the cowl or A pillar, because they actually travel a little further while running fast across a wet windshield. It also reduces the likelihood of scratching the glass.

If everything looks good, ensure the bits are properly tightened and snap the covers back into the base of the wiper arms.

Welcome to the forum Johan. 

Perform a parasitic draw test

Plug and play. Just know the halogen lenses are not designed for LED’s and you will be blinding oncoming drivers. 

Stay with OEM copper core plugs. The plug number is located on the under-hood sticker. Change every 30k miles. 

17 hours ago, 2late4u said:

also only used the oem plugs that are the copper ones they are cheap and easy to change on the 2.4 ,,,about $5, each

This. A lot of people try to run platinum or iridium plugs in the 2.4 and it causes nothing but trouble. 

6 hours ago, andavaka said:

Hey There,

 

I recently got my cats emptied out, how did you sort out the check engine light.

Plugs need to be replaced every 30,000 miles on the 2.4. Verify that has been done. All we can do is guess until more information is provided as requested. 

Sorry. I don't know metric. 

6 hours ago, nikescomputers said:

Hello, I have a 2015 Dodge Journey AVP. My car is making a rattling sound. Could it be the motor mounts? I'm going to get it looked at.

Let us know what they say. 

Welcome! 

You will need to get the battery and charging system checked. 

Moved to the correct section

$1500

Agreed. We need to know the codes. Otherwise, it's just guessing. 

I'm sure you can. Plug and play? Probably not. 

Dodge Journey Cargo Net Clip Trunk Hook OEM FAST SHIPPER PAIR | eBay

Welcome to the forum!

3 hours ago, larryl said:

The rubber brake lines can collapse from the inside on these vehicles and can go unnoticed 

This ^^. Had an older Chrysler Sebring convertible once that kept burning brakes on the left rear. Found the hose had collapsed inside the hose (could not see it, nothing seemed amiss from outside). It was acting as a check valve. Pressure in, but no pressure out.