Journeyman425

Gotta love happy new Journey owners! Welcome all.

My bad...I should read more carefully next time!

For those five minutes, the car is achieving zero l/100km (0 mpg) which brings down your overall average. The remaining km/e value is based upon the overall average.

Did a quick check of the service manual - all of our specs are for removal and installlation, diag and testing. The manual only deals with OEM replacement so measurements are not included.

The sunroof seal is designed to seal the roof panel from wind and most water. Some water is allowed to drip into the sunroof tub by design. The tub assembly has four drains - one in each corner of the roof. If any of the drains are clogged - a common occurrence in my experience - water will drip into the passenger compartment because it has nowhere else to go. Diagnosing this problem is not difficult for your dealer to do. Water testing the vehicle is the first step to see where the water is going. I have seen some roof panels allow too much water in, which overtaxes the drains. Replacement of the glass panel seal has repaired that problem in some instances. There is a test for the drains to see if they are draining at the proper rate. Usually clearing them with compressed air cures any clogged drains. Sometimes the drain hoses are not fully seated on the drains themselves. In rare cases, the headliner has to come down to see where the water enters. In all cases, these leaks are repairable. This car is not designed to allow water into it! Anyone who tells you otherwise is misinformed or completely ignorant. It frustrates me when dealers throw their hands up in the air and say it cannot be repaired. The customer gets cheated and the company ultimately loses the customer. If you have not done so already, arrange to meet with the service manager (not the service advisor) at your selling dealer. Involve the owner if necessary. Show your documented previous repair attempts. Then, if you are not satisfied, contact Customer Care again and explain what you have done thus far. I know it's frustrating but there is a resolution to your problem. You should not have to be so persistent, but your not getting satisfaction so unfortunately you must continue to pursue your case until somebody steps up to the plate to help you. You have a wonderful vehicle and you deserve to enjoy it. Please keep us posted.

Sorry, I thought yours had a 3.6

Caught that on Allpar today - the High Octane Red Pearl paint looks awesome!

If you have ATC (auto temp control) then the compressor will indeed run at times to remove moisture from the interior air. It will run whenever any of the defroster modes is activated whether you have ATC or not. I get the same dripping from the passenger side rear corner of my Journey as well. Normal condition. Also, the mufflers have condensate drains built into them as well. You might see some dripping on both sides from that. Again, normal.

Based on your description, the multifunction switch is the most likely cause of your problem. However, it would be a good idea to have this problem diagnosed by a dealer or someone knowledgable in the operation of this system or has diagnostic code-reading capability. There are several modules which interface with the headlamp switch and the sun sensor on the dash which make the headlamp system operational.

If any new service bulletins come out I'll post them here as soon as I know.

FROM THE 2010 JOURNEY SERVICE MANUAL: 08 - Electrical/8N - Power Systems/Power Locks/TRANSMITTER, Integrated Key FOB/Standard Procedure FOBIK TRANSMITTER BATTERY REPLACEMENT FOBIK WITH BATTERY COVER NOTE: Do not disturb the metal terminal near the battery. Avoid touching the new battery. Skin oils may cause battery deterioration. If battery are touched, clean with rubbing alcohol. To replace the FOBIK transmitter battery: 1. Using a small flat bladed tool, carefully remove the battery cover on the back of the FOBIK. 2. Remove the battery one at a time by slightly lifting up and sliding out from the FOBIK . 3. Replace the battery with the same type of battery cell. 4. Install the battery with the positive terminal up. 5. Install battery cover and snap into place. 6. Test FOBIK operation. FOBIK WITHOUT BATTERY COVER NOTE: Do not disturb the metal terminal near the battery. Avoid touching the new battery. Skin oils may cause battery deterioration. If battery are touched, clean with rubbing alcohol. This design is a clam shell design whereby both halves are split apart. 1. Remove the valet/spare key from the FOBIK if present. 2. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, carefully separate the top half from the bottom half. 3. Lift up on the battery to remove. 4. Replace battery with the same type of cell. 5. Install new battery negative side up. 6. Snap the top and bottom halves together. 7. Test FOBIK operation.

Only about 9800 miles on ours so far - and the engine behaves flawlessly, as has the rest of the vehicle. Zero problems to date. I have several customers driving Pentatstar Grand Cherokees for the last three years. Some of them are close to 80K miles. Except for the cam phaser issue, of which we've only had two - and a few cylinder heads which has been resolved - the engine itself has been extraordinary.

Curious to see when everyone's first oil change reminder message appeared in the EVIC. Mine came on today @ 9500 miles - 2013 Crew FWD with 3.6. I have changed the oil twice - once at 4400 miles and again at 8800 - the second time using synthetic. I know the service interval for 2013 is 10,000 miles or when the message appears, whichever occurs first as per the manual. When this system debuted a few years ago, we were seeing the oil change message appearing as early as 2500 miles, and then it would stretch to a longer period after the first time. Just an informal poll to see what your experiences have been.

HOLY RED JOURNEY BATMAN! Seriously, looks great Best of luck with it!

Waxed!

Some of the aftermarket warranties that I dealt with in the past were OK. Hopefully the CarMax contract is one of them. Even better - maybe you won't have to use it!

Bramfrank makes a very valid point about aftermarket service contracts. I was on the fence about elaborating the cons of aftermarket warranties since you have already purchased it, but if you have a cancellation clause that does not fiscally hurt you then you might consider doing so. Aftermarket service contracts (often, but not necessarily always) make the owner and the shop jump through many hoops in order to get a claim paid. The contracts are often worded with all kinds of terms which, if not followed to the letter, allow them to sidestep payment to the owner or the shop. It is for those very reasons why my shop will not accept any aftermarket warranties, nor do we sell anything but the Chrysler Service Contracts. The factory Service Contract is very straightforward. All repairs correspond to an eight digit Labor Operation Number (LOP). There is no guesswork - if a customer's vehicle needs a repair, we simply type the LOP number into the customer's Service Contract. If the LOP is covered by the plan, we get paid no questions asked, and the customer is only responsible for the deductible as stated on their plan. No adjuster to call, no records to show, nothing is open to interpretation by a third party adjuster, often sent to the repair shop by the aftermarket warranty company to verify the shop's claim. Plus, as bramfrank states, all OEM parts are used and the contract is good at ANY Chrysler Group dealer, anywhere. Often times the aftermarket warranty companies will specify their own parts rather than OEM or worse, will pay only for a used part! The store I used to work for years ago sold these aftermarket warranties, and often times we had to leave the car on the lift for days, waiting for an adjuster to come to verify our claim. The customer was left with a disabled car at our shop and the contract company would not pay for a rental while you waited for them to authorize payment. This never happens with a Chrysler plan. I purchased a Lifetime Maximum Care Contract of our Journey even though I work for a dealer and pay cost for parts. These cars have some very expensive electronics in them, not to mention the engine and tranny. I'm still driving my last new car - a 2000 300M with 286,000 miles on it. Our Journey may very well follow suit, especially if it will only cost me $100.00 to put a motor or a tranny in it, not to mention replacement of that nice 8.4" touchscreen which is bound to go bad after a few years. Plus, should anything ever happen to me, my wife will never have to worry about a repair bill exceeding $100.00 for as long as she owns the car. Something to think about.

Correct VIN now - it was off one digit. Your Journey was originally placed in service on March 25, 2013. So, your basic warranty expires 3/25/2016 or at 36K miles, whichever comes first. The powertrain warranty is 60 months/100K miles, again whichever comes first. The CarMax contract you purchased is an aftermarket (non-factory) contract, as it does not appear on the Chrysler side. All active Chrysler Service Contracts appear in the inquiry that I ran for you. You can decide if it is worth keeping or cancelling. Read the contract, then read the warranty booklet that accompanies the owner's manual, and compare the coverages to help you decide. I can help you with a warranty PDF if you did not get it with your Journey.

Pictures!

The wiring harness could still be the issue even though the airbag light is not illuminated. If the harness is broken in a circuit which only governs the windows, the airbag light will not illuminate as there is still continuity in the SRS (supplemental restraint system). Would you like me to confirm that your vehicle is outside the paramaters for the recall? I need the last eight digits of your VIN to do that. I would contact Chrysler Customer Care 1-800-992-1997 and inquire about assistance for the cost of repairs if you are in fact outside the build dates for the recall. Have your repair records ready when you call so that you have factual information to provide them.

When I type that VIN into DealerConnect, it comes back with a Fiat 500 registered in California. Let's try the whole 17 digits, plus the mileage please. Thanks!

The warranties transfer automatically to the new owner (you). They go with the vehicle. There is the 36 month / 36,000 mile basic warranty which covers the complete vehicle. The 5/100 warranty is for powertrain components only. Neither carry a deductible. Find out if your 6/100 warranty is powertrain coverage only, or is it more comprehensive. Is it a Chrysler Service Contract? If you are not sure, post or PM the last eight digits of your VIN with your approximate current mileage and I can look it up for you.

Glad it is resolved and happy to be of help to you!