rozwell911

I thought about that....it is unfortunately a risk i will have to take for the time being... By the way, installing was a breeze.....easiest brakes i have ever installed!!!

Well there goes my memory. Mayby i am confusing myself with the CRD with teh six speed manual in europe

I still very rarely see Journeys on the road here in CA. Maybe 3 in the last 5 months. Anyone know how many were produced and were delivered to each state?

Hey great minds think alike..I too am replaceing with Wagner Ceramics...lol As for the miles, i jsut crested 12000 miles (19310 KM). My pads are low...not metal to metal. There is a very slight wobble when i brake at high speeds (freeway, , so i know the rotors are a little tweeked, but it something i have to live with until i get paid next month.) my service advisor was very candid with me and even said the rotors and pads suck and aftermarket woudl be the way to go,.... Oh by the way, crysler warranties them for 12 months 12000 miles.

I did a little more reasearch: Mobil 1 Filter M1113 Is Fram part# PH10060 Here is a list of corresponding part numbers from other manufactuers in case everyone needs it. Competitors AC-DELCO PF48 AMSOIL EAO47 BALDWIN B160 CARQUEST 84060 CARQUEST 84073 CHAMP PH48 CHRYSLER 04892339AA CHRYSLER 4884900AB CHRYSLER 4892339AA COOPERS LSF5122 FIAAM FT4663 FIRESTONE PH48 FISPA FOE194 FLEETGUARD LF16242 GENERAL MOTORS 12626224 GENERAL MOTORS 89017524 GIESSE CLH426 GREY FRIARS 9070S HASTINGS LF613 HASTINGS LF623 LUBER-FINER LFP5822 LUBER-FINER PH48 MANN & HUMMEL ML 1030 MIGHTY M48 MILEGUARD MO10060 MILEGUARD MO10060 MOBIL M1-113 MOPAR MO-339 NAPA 7060 PENNZOIL PZ-167 PERFORMAX PO-167 PERFORMAX PO-167 PUROLATOR L12222 SECURITY SO-10060 STP S10060 SUPERTECH ST10060 SUZUKI 16510-78J00 VM 4-115-031 VW-AUDI-PORSCHE 7B0 115 561C WARNER WPH48 WIX 57060 WOODGATE WGL9177 I still recomned confirming your original filter, but this might be of some use. EDIT: i just compared my Service invoice when i had my oil change done last. the part numbers i highlighted above are what was in stalled into my car. So that is confirmation that the above part numbers for the other brands are functional for our vehicles. next time you have service, comapre part numebrs.

Ok, so in a previous thread i was asking abot oil filters and why Kragen Auto Parts (O' Rilley's) listed 2 differnt size filters for the 3.5 liter. Well we think i may have something to do with the difference between AWD and FWD (I have FWD) and/or oil cooler. Kragen says my car should use a Fram oil filter part# PH2 or any of the "2" series. When i compared to my stock mopar filter, it was nearly an inch in diamater wider. It was also plainly obvious that the with of the filter would not fit on the filter housing The K&N oil filter was the correct size, part# HP1017. We cross referenced to the correct Mobil 1 oil filter, which is part# M1113. So i hope you guys can use this info, in case someone runs into this problem again. I am not sure what the exact reason is between the filters, maybe someone can answer that?

Here in the states i use the touchless car washes inbetween my hand washing and waxing. I have stripped and wax the journey 3 times this year.....once when i got it, once in the middle of summer and once for fall/winter. I guess you can say i am very anal about how my car is treated...lol

I like glass cleaner...try and find a non-ammona based cleaner so its less corrosive on the wheels. Also, i wax my wheels with 100% carnuba wax...not the liquid kind, but the kind that is like putty in a jar. (Liquid will work, but not as well IMO.) Zymol comes to mind as a brand.

Heat guns will usually not damage paint or bubble paint if left for breife periods of time. Paint hardens like acylic (so does clear) once it is put under the UV lamps for drying after the painting process is complete. the only thing a heat gun will do if left on for long periods of time is beging to crack and possible scorch the clear. But in most cases you have to be really abusive to get that to happen. the other thing you could use....warm/hot water and a plastic razor blade you can get form local parts stores. then finish with 3m adhesive remover. But it will take longer like other have said.

Best leather cleaner, Mild soap and water (Dawn, believe it or not) Best Leather preserver, Conoly Hide Care. You can find it at most parts store and hi end dealers (BMW, MBZ, VW). It is in a cream color bottle with a green lid. It is the best leather preserver i have ever used IMO, ofcourse.

Thanks again for the reply Larry. I am not replacing the rotors....i am only replceing the pads. As a tech, i am aware that turning or replaceing the rotors is always recomended. Unfortuantly, at this time, becuase of my current trip to southern california this firday, and the fact that no one in my area has the rotors at a price i can aforaid or in stock, i am forced to put the pads on with out new or turned rotors (places around here want dont have peopel after 5pm to turn rotors...and i dont get off work till 430 ) Do you think i will be ok for the time being with the new pads and old rotors?

Interesting....Here in the states there is no (not that i know of or what my dealer told me about) 2.7 liter v6...just the 4 cyl and the 35. The 4 cyl is offered with a 6 speed manual if i remember correctly.

Thank you so much for the prompt, detailed reply....>I use to work at Kragens and sometimes their software would mix up the filters if there was more than one motor group offered for the car in question. I'll take a look at the filter later today and go get my stuffs. Thanks again!

I got a question for you guys.....I am changing my own oil this afternoon because i am leaving on a trip this weekend. WHen i called my local Kragen auto parts (Owned by O'rilley'S) they said that there were 2 different size oil filters for the 3.5 liter....A long narrow skinny filter and a short fat, wide filter.... And that the only way to tell is to take a look at my oil filter. SO here are my questions: 1) Are there really 2 differnt oil filters? 1a) If so, what is the right one for the 3.5 liter FWD(or is ther enow way to tell with out looking?)? 2 where is the oil filter located?

For anyone who has installed new front pads or rotors in their Journey (i have the 3.5 SXT FWD), how easy was the installation?? I am a fairly seasoned person when it comes to brakes as i have done them a on many cars recently. One forum said it was a "swing" type caliper and it made installtion of the pads roughly 15 minutes per side...>ANy feed back from members here? Thanks Everyone!

It would not apply to manuals as manuals are not controled by the PCM....Your shift the car not the computer. But there may be a different TSB for your complaint than whats for the Auto's. But since the CRD motor is not in the states, i am not sure if it we could get that info if it exsists. Does the CRD use the same manual trans as the 2.4 ?

I just wanted to let everyone what i use to clean the exterior of my car. It has servered me well in the past and i am sure it will server anyone else well who uses it: Washing For washsing the car, normal hose water works...most soaps now of days help prevent streaking and water stains...and if you detail like i do, if there are any stains, they come right off as you dry/detail/wax the car. Soaps i use, there are only 4, Turtle Wax car wash, Turtle Wax ZIP car wash, Dawn Dish soap (only use when you need to strip your old wax or are planning on clay baring the car, as dawn takes grease and wax off your car) and BMW Car wash...yes BMW car wash...It works the best IMO inbetween waxes, really have very little trouble removing bugs and grime with that car wash. Also, i usually wash a section at a time, as to not give the soap time to dry on the vehicle, makes final drying/detailing a lot easier..If you got time or a second person, drying as you progess also helps with preventing streaks. When i wash a section at a time, i always keep the hose on low flow to prevent water splash onto any dry parts i have already worked on. Stripping the wax off Car If you are striping the wax off the car, dawn dish soap and dry with a sheep skin shamy....it does fairly well striping all the wax of a car for a prep for a fresh polish. You can also use a 50/50 mix of white vinager/water in a spray bottle....Soak the section of car your working on with the spray, wipe with a towel (DO NOT WIPE TO DRY) to rub the wax off the car, then proceed to rinse off with water imidiatly. With this step it is recomended to wash the car again with the soap of your choice. PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW SOMEONE WHO CAN DO THIS PROPERLY OR HAVE DONE IT BEFORE. you can seriously damage your paint/clear coat if you leave the vinager solution on too long. BEWARE!! I am not responsible for any damage occured to your vehicle. these are only suggestions. Drying Drying is simple. I only use Microfiber towels. I find they leave little to no "fuzz" like some towels do and do not scratch the clear coat like rough bath towles can. Also, use a bit of fabric softner when tossing your microfiber towels in the laundry, it tends to keep their soft, slightly plush feeling a little longer. Waxing Before turtle wax bought them, i would recomend Zymol...it was 100% pure carnuba wax, all natural...it would come in a Jar similar to plamade and you would apply it to your car with your fingers...really good stuff. But since Turtle Wax bought them, I have not used it for fear that they would degrade the product from what it was....this is not to say that Turtel wax is a bad product all together, just that Zymol was at a higher quality IMO and i am afraid they would do some type of cost saving's to the brand. If anyone still uses Zymol, please let me know as i would like to know if its quality is still top notch. The primary wax i use, is Meguires 3 step wax ( what step is listed on the outside of each bottle) (http://www.meguiars.com/ in the search bar type "Deep Crystal System" and the 3 cleaners/waxes that are part of the kit will show up...use all 3 for best results). Cleaner Wax to help remove impurities, the polish to give the car that water glaze, and the deep crystal carnuba wax to give it the smoothness and protect form the elements. this seems to work the best for my vehicles in general. What i use full time on my car: the Turtle Wax Black Box, specificly for black cars , is ( http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,4,28 ) the best thing since 18 way power seats were invented. The black colored wax formula, does not leave the while or yellowish wax marks on plastic and molding, thus making clean up a bit easier. It also helps remove scratch in the clear. Best bang for the buck. I recomend it to anyone with a black car, although, people without a black car can use it, it drys black on the car, but wipes away clear. I remcomend using this wax if you dont want the yellow crusty stuff showing up on your moldings. When waxing, use the aplicator pads specified in the box, or any of your local auto parts store brand aplicator pads..>DO NOT USE TOWLES...not only do they not apply the wax appropiatly, they can leave fibers under the wax as it drys thus ruining the process. When waxing, do only one section at a time (EX. Hood, door panel, roof or bumer ) to prevent the wax for hardening to hard. Also do not wax in the sun, sun makes the wax dry really fast causing you to have to really rub off the wax hard...it is very annoying and your muscles start to hurt a lot. Also as before USE MICROFIBER TOWELS to remove the way...buffs to a very nice shine with them. P.S. I wax the tail lights, and head lights too...seems to offer a bit of protection from rocks and chips. Wheels Weather they are chrome plated,aluminum or MAG wheels, i always use a mild soap and water solution. the chemical based clearner i find can be too harsh to the wheels, and if you use the wrong time of solution (like chrome solution on Aluminum wheels) you can damage the finish on the wheels. I use a brush for the hard to reach plasces (soft brissle wheel cleaning brush or tooth brush if you have too). Once i rinse the soap off with water, i go over them with some spray detailer (Either Meguiers, Mothers, or Zymol...does not matter) and dry them off, then i wax them i find waxing them gives them the best shine and helps with removal of brake dust when washing, cause it doesn;t really stick to the wax...Also, for protecting the wheels, i have looked into the spray on clear bra and had some relative good sucess with the wheels on my previous mustang. the spray on bra was also waxable and washable...it worked pretty well for my car. Inbetween Washes/Waxes California car duster is your friend...workes good when you just have dust and no dirt on the car (during spring, pollen, dirt roads). Spray detailer works well also. The top ones i use are Zymol, Meguires and Mothers. There is a detailer/spay polish i can recomend also. its called Capt. Rons "the Bomb"....a lot of the detail shops in my area use it, it is very safe for paint, waxed surfaces and plastics as well as cleanign the interior of the car. It also makes waxing the windows a lot easer in the spay form, so that way the water beeds up on the glass when it rains. Also, as usual use microfiber when detailing. Since there is already an interio thread started, i will not touch basis of it in here. that way we keep the threads seperated. If anyone has any questions, commments or suggestions...please ask in this thread! Lupe Disclaimer: I have tried everything, but do not acept resonsibility for any damage done to peoples vehicals by improper use, or MFG defects in the products or people not knowing how to do something...The above are merly opinions and suggestions by me.

Meguires Interior car detailer. This has always worked best for me for the hard surfaces of my vehicles. Other than that, if there is a lot of dirt dirt, i use very mild soap and water to clean (Dawn, mixed with distilled water) with a micro fiber towel, Klasse (german company, can find online or at most BMW dealers) to protect the plastics, and Conoly Hide Car for any leather, to preserve it. Thats my process. Works very well for all my cars.

Something i want to point out about your above statement, as to not confuse the noobies here, stating something as fact, like you did above, may not be the best thing to do...some people can take it as truth even and might ahve the dealer corect it, only to ahve the problem return. Just remember, that similar problems can have completly different solutions, especailly when it has to do with the WIN or security modules. Here is another example of what could be the cause as stated by other: The swithc in the shifter, the break pedal switch and the WIN mod (or CAS as we call it) all are intertwined with each other. Even though it may seem like it is a problem with one, it could be the other. A new WIN module would be the most logical fix your problem.....as that has been the consitant fix for the problem, as well as there being a TSB out specificly for this problem. The vast majority of problems are indeed the WIN module as per TSB. But it does not hurt to be through and have the dealer check out both possible solutions of the win and the shifter.

Guys...check out the alram system thread in the accessories section of the forums..... I do not have an alarm, but i do have a panic button on my fob and it does work. Well i was haveing the same problem as you guys, both unlock and lock were having the problem. My dealer found that it had to do with the CAS unit (igniton control unit, in dash) that the key fob gets insertied to to start the car. Apparently it also controls to a degree, alaram functions to an extent. They repalced that (TSB recall) and it has not done is in the four months since. Yiour guys should look into it.

From what i understand, the indicator for the lights being on is realtive to having DTRL (day time running lamps) and on cars like mine, there is no dash indicator. One thing i did notice is that when you have the lights switched to auto, there is an audiable click coming form the dash area to let you know when the lgihts are coming on. This might be useful for people who do not ahve the fog light indicator or DTRL indicator as stated above.

I'm here daily and post in topic that i have first hand expreience with. There has only been a hand full of problems for me....One was the CAS module (Inginiton unit in dash), the other was the PS cap, a re-torquing of a CTL arm bolt, and a new PCM to fix the tranny shifting issues. So far so good. No other issues have come up...though i am worring about my brakes from reading on the forums.

Just so everyone know, i was having problems with the alaram going off instantly when ever i pushed the lock button on my key fob. I was also having problems starting the car...sometimes when i turn the fob in the CAS unit (ingition unit) it would not start...i would ahve to turn abck to off and try again. Turns out these problems are realted. There was a TSB that should have been done before my car was sold, to repalce the CAS (ingnition unit in dash) unit with an updated version, for these very problems. SInce it was repalced in may, i have not had one problem what so ever. And it use to happen 1 every two weeks or so...so it was a very consistant problem.

Ok as usually they do not put the TSB number on the final paper work...but they kinda did one better. ALl it says is "TSB found regarding the PCM. Please change the PCM from part# 68003158AF to 68003158L. Reprogram" So the new PCM number shoudl be 68003158L and thats what the dealer should install into your cars. Hope this helps...sorry about not having the actual TSB number....but it does say there is a TSB...so don't let your dealers give you the shaft. Now i did talk with my Service Advisor, he did say this TSB probably should have been done before the dealer sold the car...thats if the dealer followed through with them (my purchasing dealer did not, and they went out of business, so i had to have my new dealer do it) so make sure they double check and show you that you have the current PCM in there....4 months later and it is still going good for me.

Got a question for you all, i have the Journey SXT FWD 3.5 L IS the breaking issue more for a particular motor class or brake system (Drum rears as opposed to calipers all the way around)? Also, for those familar with the stock brakes I am at 12000 miles (roughy 19,310 KM) I kinda eyeballed my front brakes and it was alteeast a 1/4 inch if not a bot more....how long do you guys think i ahve till i need new brakes? Theres no squeal and no grind (obviously) and apparently i have ware pad sensors, as i have the icon on my dash, and thats what my advisor told me. Anyways, i am heading about 200 miles away from home this weekend, all freeway driving...you guys think the pads will be ok?